Idle issue with GSL-SE
#26
I swear I didn't know.
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Found the Cause of the High Idle and corrected it. While inspecting the Throttle Body closely I noticed a small bolt with a star style head on it just below the TPS and right above the Double Throttle diaphragm. It was in to far pushing on the throttle Body Linkage. So I unscrewed it all the way out and voila the car stalled out idling. So I messed with the Idle Air adjustment Screw and she now idles at 800rpms just purring! That damn little screw has had me all shades of red trying to figure out the bad idle. But due to the large mass of RTV Sealant I am still going to replace the gaskets as suggested above by 85 FB.
Picture 1
I have some more bad news in the second picture.
Picture 1
I have some more bad news in the second picture.
#28
might i suggest since you've got your intake manifold off that you replace as many 20 some year old vacuum hoses as possible, new gaskets, send your injectors off for cleaning and replace with new rubbers. I really would recommend cleaning them since you've got everything there. They're cheap to clean, and it's assurance that you're getting the best possible spray pattern for power and no potential leaks for startup problems. HIGHLY recommended!!!! Oh and pitch that FPD before you cause a fire@!!
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Yeah, there's been a few posts about using the banjo-bolt method. And, ditto on the vacuum hose. Also, you'll be needing a replacement Anti-Afterburn Valve/ACV assembly gasket. You will need to remove the AAV/ACV assembly to get to the inner LIM bolts. You'll have to feel around for them but you will be able to find them just right the aux port actuators.
For your gasket sealer and old material, get some stuff from Permatex that's called Gasket Remover, or something along that nature. I should've done that but since I never heard of it before and was pressed for time, I ended up using a wire wheel brush to remove all that crap off.
For your gasket sealer and old material, get some stuff from Permatex that's called Gasket Remover, or something along that nature. I should've done that but since I never heard of it before and was pressed for time, I ended up using a wire wheel brush to remove all that crap off.
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My FPD broke just like that a week before I got the car - the previous owner fixed it. It is a must fix though - that can cause a LOT of issues.
Is there a good upgrade for that deal? Maybe a newer S5 rail?
Is there a good upgrade for that deal? Maybe a newer S5 rail?
#31
I swear I didn't know.
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^ That would be interesting with the fuel rail idea.
I just purchased a banjo bolt and 2 washers for an '86 NA to replace the FPD today. It only costed me $4.16 for it vs the $130 for the stock FPD. I took Kevin Landers idea with the banjo bolt from a 2nd Gen NA after reading the post on his RotaryResurrection site. I figured he fixes and works on them everyday and replaces them on the cars he works on, so if it was good enough for him and his ride then it is good enough for me!
Yeah I need to get the gasket removal stuff. I absolutely hate RTV Sealant. It is messy and to me doesn't form a good seal like the stock gaskets will.
I just purchased a banjo bolt and 2 washers for an '86 NA to replace the FPD today. It only costed me $4.16 for it vs the $130 for the stock FPD. I took Kevin Landers idea with the banjo bolt from a 2nd Gen NA after reading the post on his RotaryResurrection site. I figured he fixes and works on them everyday and replaces them on the cars he works on, so if it was good enough for him and his ride then it is good enough for me!
Yeah I need to get the gasket removal stuff. I absolutely hate RTV Sealant. It is messy and to me doesn't form a good seal like the stock gaskets will.
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