how can i go about getting one????

 

Msd 6al

 

why would you want a rev limiter? I've never put one on a car I'm always taking them off

 

For when you "Drive it like you stole it"

 

and thats the only way i seem to know how to drive my 7....and i learned today that i really dont wanna be at redline so long that my buzzer is going off for over 5seconds straight...and then my car smoked for a long time...


so............how are these installed??? i know its cant be simply bought from summit or somthing and be installed because thats just not the rotary way

 

lol, its a simple install really, instructions are included, there has got to be a post in here describing it, the rev limiter is a chip which you can change so others dont beat your honey to death, just you can..........

new ones are on eBay everyday

 

I've been investigating this, and i've read that you might need two msd 6al boxes, one for the trailing, and the other for leading. The good news is that your car should run a lot better with a more powerful ignition system, but bad news is that at $200 a box, it's expensive to run it for both leading and trailing. Has anyone tried it with just 1 6al at the leading? does it work to limit the rev? I've been wanting to do this so that I don't over rev while i'm autoxing (I'm fairly conservative on revving, but i can't say the same about my co-driver)...

 

if you just put on on the leading the trailing would still be firing and it wouldn't work right. You'e need two. And you could set it up one of two ways. One on the trailing running through the cap, and the leading directfire, or both through the cap.

 

You can't use two. It's either one or three.

One because you can fire your leading at the same time off the same signal, and one is just a wasted spark.

Two because if you tried that with the trailing, one of them would be firing into the wrong part of the cycle and causing pre-ignition.

So one or three. If you did one, you couldn't properly limit because the trailing plugs would continue firing at the rate of the distributor, while the leading plugs would be "limited". Then again, the trailing are only for emissions control, so you could use an MSD ignition box on the leading, then just remove the coil and wiring for the trailing (leaving an old set of plugs in place of course).

IMHO it's not worth it. Listen to your buzzer or stop driving it so high. Learn to look at your display once in a while, and get used to shifting. I can't even fathom how you could be at redline for more than a few seconds without realizing it, especially if you've been driving standard for more than a week. It's near impossible to hit redline in fifth and fourth without realizing it, and if you've passed 120km/h in 3rd, you've been there for quite a while and need to shift. 1st and 2nd are for lower speeds, so you should be watching your tach if you want to "drive it like you stole it" and shift at redline.

You're 17, maybe you should spend some quality time learning to drive your car, instead of blasting the music so loud that you can't hear the buzzer and driving the low gears like they're automatic. Or maybe even get a civic to learn to drive on for a few years before you go ruining your 7. No offence, but shifting before redline shouldn't be a problem if you're a responsible driver who bothers to learn his vehicle.

Jon

 

You have a few options with the MSD:

- two MSD 6ALs firing two stock style coil through dizzy cap
- two MSD 6ALs firing 1 2 post DIS coil for leading, one stock style coil through dizzy cap for trailing
- two MSD 6ALs firing 3 stock style coils (2 for leading, 1 trailing) (direct fire leading, trailing through cap)
- disconnect trailing run single MSD on leading (one coil through cap, 1 DIS, or two stock style coils )

All of these options are pretty expensive just to get the rev limiter, but they will do the job.

 

I wondered when you'd pop up there addict, you da man....

 

http://www.smbaker.com/rail/msd6a.html



so if i do this though ur saying the trailing will still be firing casuing me to not have a rev limiter?? or it will be the trailing plugs would burn out that way wouldnt they?

 

Yes, if you do it that way, the trailing will continue to fire past the rev limit. The power will be reduced, but probably not enough to keep from over-reving. You can do it like that and just not run trailing. You probably won't notice the difference. Otherwise, you will need to have two MSDs to get the full effect.

 

Trailing plugs add something like ten percent of the total power. Cut the leading, and you will have plenty of rev limiter. In racing, a lot of people fire the leading and trailing at the same time anyway! In street cars, the long skinny combustion chamber is not optimal for things like emissions, so the trailing fire to give a little boost but primarlity to tidy up the unburned gases at the end of a very long flame path. Try one of Cranes Fireball ignitions, with the built in adjustable limiter so you don't have to buy the MSD "pills".

 

boswj when they say they fire the trailing and leading at the same time it just means there is no leading traling timing split.

the leading plugs fire at the same time. the trailing plugs fire in a staggered fashion. if they were fired like the leading at the same time you would likely ignite the incoming air/fuel and have some seriouse problems.

Se addict described the available options correctly.


ALSO! msd rev limiters start cutting a before their chips rated rpm.
if you chip it for 7000 itll start cutting 6500-6800 rpms. Back when i used this sort of setup I put a 9k chip in. I could feel it starting to limit spark just after 8k rpms.

 

I'm running a 6al on my direct fire setup... when it kicks in, you definitely feel it.....

Dan

 

hi
i have a brand new one i would like to sell MSD6AL
i was going to install it but we are getting emission testing in our area
so i chnaged my mind
let me know
you can email at Minocqa@aol.com
if interetsted
Don

 

just so you know a 6al is emmissions legal in all 50 states and will make your car run cleaner.

 

^^^^^^^

 

Right, that makes PERFECT sense, especially for a car like mine, where the powerband doesn't stop until about 9,000 rpm... Nothin' like competing at an autocross, going back to watch the video, and noticing that you spend 1/3 of the course with the buzzer going off... If the guy wants to install a rev limiter, I see no problem with it, especially if he DOES have trouble going past redline...

Dan
(limiter set at 9200)

 

We're not talking a highly modified FB here. If your powerband doesn't stop until 9,000rpm and your motor is built for it, then the *stock* redline wouldn't be very useful to you. In that case you'd need either an aftermarket tach with a shift light or a rev limiter.

But we're talking about a stock FB here. If your 7k redline was put there to protect your car, and even comes with a BUZZER to back it up, you should be listening to it.

It's not like I'm against people rev limiting their car, I just don't think someone should spend tons of money on ignition components for the sole purpose of doing something that a responsible *street driving* person should be doing on their own. Lt. Dan, your situation is totally different. I hope you don't drive on the street the same way you drive on the autocross course.

Jon

 

you know that buzzer that comes on at around 6500rpm? (I forget the exact rpm, it's been a while since I last drove mine!)

well, unplug the buzzer, and replace it with a 12v relay. Use one with 2 switched contacts (DPDT) and wire the positive feeds to the coils through the relay - it may be beter to extend teh wires from the rev counter, and place the relay as close as possible to the coils, to reduce interferance issues (if any!)


Now this means, instead of your buzzer going off when you go over the "reccomended limit", you simply wont be able to rev your engine any higher, because your rev-counter will simply cut the power to your ignition! If you want to raise/lower the rpm limit, there's a small potentiometer you can adjust. Just make sure it's the one on the same side as the buzzer connection, as the other one is used to calibrate the tacho output to suit the input frequency - it also means you can use an RX7 tacho, on something like a jag V12 engine, or a 2-stroke moped, if you wanted

 

Ok, guys. Hate to wet on everyones parade, but I think this whole thing got started because some kid wants to take his 20+ year old car, and make it stutter on the rev limiter to impress his "Ricer" buddies. That seems to be whats "in" right now. You don't go race about it, you just rev on each other. Man, that's weird!!!!!

 

I think we are trying to say the same thing - I meant that there was no timing split between leading and trailing. What did it sound like I was trying to say? (Sometimes it sounds so clear in my head, but when others read it it sounds like something ENTIRELY different! Dangerous when giving tech advice!!!!)

 

I *had* to install a rev limiter on the repu. When autocrossing I was above the 6000rpm buzzer a lot. Redline @ 7000. Max HP @ 6500.

Streetport + aluminum flywheel + 4.625 gears its very very easy to redline. Now at the auto-x I just bounce off the rev limiter, fewer worries.