Bigmotoxer

I lost all power to ignition/running Lts/ect so I researched archives found out about fusable link on driver strut, yep that was the problem..I also seen an easy/cheap way to fix it w/those block type fuses(60-30-60 right?)

Anyway finally got carb working correct today and car runs good(yes even w/choke off) but it idles at 1300-1400 rpm..I know this has been discussed 1,000 times but I do not have a vacuum leak(I've changed all hoses, sprayed every connection looking for signs of possible leaks, also felt all low hanging hoses under carb around manifold for burn holes, ect) so I don't want to start turning screws and get my air/fuel mixture all messed up.
I have 2 pics to make it easy on us all...I think?

1. There's a long threaded rod/spring that connects to the acceperator pump arm...what can I expect by adjusting this nut?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/Image085.jpg

2. What can I expect by turning this screw?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/Image083.jpg

I guess I'm wondering if I can just slow my idle or am I gonna have to turn one then the other then the other, ect? I seen a tool that is suppose to go into your spark-plug hole and when it has a blue color then the adjustment are correct...do these work good? Or can my problem be fixed by just turning an idle screw?
If you don't wanna explain it just give me a good link, i can't find exactly what I need to know.
Thanks

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

What did you do to get it idling correctly.
You do not adjust the 1st mentioned rod. The adjustment for the idle speed is just to the left of the accelerator pump rod you mentioned. No reason to adjust mixture at this time.

Rogue_Wulff

One often overlooked item that can cause a fast idle, is the A/C throttle opener. Checking for this is easy. You can unplug the vac hose that goes to the opener (big black plastic vac pod at the rear of the carb), If the idle drops, you've found the cause.

Like doc, I'm curious to know made it idle correctly....

On the fuse links, 30-50-30 is what I used. Sometimes you have to file the middle of them so they can fit over the center divider in the fuse block. Varies by manufacturer.

Bigmotoxer

I fixed my problem by;
I turned the gasket right side up in the carb, I'm an idiot!
Then took about 30 minutes to perfectly adjust float heights.

Bigmotoxer

I didn't adjust the first mentioned rod(the one w/the big, long spring)going to the accelerator pump. What I did was took that nut off the first time I removed carb, so where it was at originally(from the factory)I don't know?

Bigmotoxer

So the + looking screw in the base of the carb(the second picture) is for idle only?

Bigmotoxer

30-50-30, ok.
So if the idle drops then what is the cause? That hose to the black vac pod is bad, or the vac pod itself?

DAMN that white page of death!!!

Rogue_Wulff

Yes. That is the idle speed adjustment screw.

Rogue_Wulff

If the idle drops, unplug the white (rearmost, I think) soleniod on the rats nest.

I was fighting the white page of death, too.........

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

1. Fuses should be 30/60/30. The 2 30s are for the headlights, the 60 is the main that goes to the under dash fuse block.

2. Leave the 2 screws/adjustments in your pics alone, they don't change by themselvses and changing them can cause more problems to deal with later once you find the real problem. Keep looking for a vacuum leak. It's possible that you may have a couple ofsmall ones that are much harder to find than a single big one.

Also check the cables for binding or being too tight.

Bigmotoxer

I meant to say that if the idle drops does that mean that there's a vac leak in the vac pod AND/OR hose? whew!

Oh man, wolf, you're saying that's the idle adjustment screw? Well what is the long rod w/spring, air/fuel screw? If so I was thinking back-wards I swore I had that figured out by now.

Rogue_Wulff

The long rod with the spring, is the accel pump linkage.

The idle mixture is near the center of the carb, down towards the bottom, engine side (primary barrels).
For the time being, those 2 items are best left alone. The Idle speed screw may need minor adjusting, to bring the idle down.

If the idle drops by pulling that vac hose, it just indicates the a/c system is having "issues", and keeping the throttle opener activated. I have that issue on my car, so I just keep the solenoid that controls it unplugged. That's the white plug/colorcoded solenoid in the rats nest. Their should only be vacuum in that hose, when the A/C is running.

Bigmotoxer

I have a little slack in my throttle cable, went per direction from info I got off of this site...it's good.
What did I write? 60/30/60? I must be dislexic(sp?). I meant 30/60/30.
My carb is fixed as far as the idle w/choke only problem...it runs good now w/choke off...now that I turned the gasket back around and removed the gasket under the spacerplate that plugging a few small holes, duuhhrr!.
The problem I'm having now is that I'm just idling a little high and also from idle when I blip the gas pedal I get a very small/short stutter and then it snaps in good and hard, the stutter is why I was thinking maybe my air/fuel is off.
I agree leave the screws alone that is why I posted this brother...I did not want to screw(no pun intended) anything up. But unfortunately I have already taken the nut off of the long rod/spring that goes to the accel pump rod when I first removed the carb. ****! great...I have no idea where it was at before I touched it, could that be why I'm idling at 1300 or why I have a small stutter when pushing quickly on the throttle?

Bigmotoxer

Ok so there's three screws we're talking about here(dang we may need to delete this thread I was all screwed up...idiot!)...the idle speed screw, the idle mixture screw, and the one that goes to the accel pump(what's that called?). Right?

Rogue_Wulff

If you took the nut off the accel pump linkage, that could be related to the minor hesitation, but will have no effect on idle speed. Getting it back to the correct setting takes a little time, but we can deal with it later.

Hey, you may not know what these things are, but you are at least asking the right questions to learn. And, you're asking BEFORE you start turning them blindly.

Bigmotoxer

I think Trochoid and Doc has back out of this one, they think I'm a flaming moron, hahahaha.
Ok, that nut on the accel pump is the only thing i've messed w/and I know (from the history of this car) that nothing else has been touch since new from factory.
So my idle speed has to do w/something else.. I'll try the little black plastic vac pod in the A.M. and see if that makes a difference.
Why would the accel arm affect hesitation?

Bigmotoxer

that white page of death is about to get on my last nerve!

84RX_Se7en

Big motoxer, you're a good guy. Intelligent and you searched and you really seem to know your **** or take advice about your **** well. Hats off to you.

Now for the carb, mine never worked right on my GSL, and I never really bothered with it. I just wanted to make a point of appreciating your efforts.

Bigmotoxer

Thank you, I feel less dumb now, lol.
Ohio? I worked in toledo once and Mich loved it, made tons of $$

84RX_Se7en

Doing what? :p

Rogue_Wulff

As you open the throttle plates, the accel pump squirts extra fuel into the intake.
If it is not properly adjusted, it will not squirt the needed fuel at the right time. Instant hesitation.

I doubt doc or trochoid think you're a "flaming moron". A willingness to ask, and listen to advice, is an essential step to learning anything.

Bigmotoxer

I.B.E.W. Electrical work...industrial/commercial.

Bigmotoxer

Oh, I got a visual now, yes! ok.
Ok so in the A.M. I'll check vac pod v/s idle speed and I'll(since i've already screwed it up)play w.the accel pump adjustment.
That will give me a starting point. i will not mess w/any other adjustments until I confer w/you guys.
Thanks it's late...thanks for stay up so late helping(humoring)me.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

No. Actually I took some time to read thru some of the info I printed for over 6 hours last night. My brain is on overload right now.

That's all you did was make a honest error in reassembly. Your not the first one to do something like this. It also confirms my original theory that I learned many years ago. When in doubt recheck and recheck the work you just did. 98% of the time you will find that If evrything is ok before you did something that what you just did is not 100% correct.
And on the idle adjustment screw, it is not on the base of the carb, that is the mixture screw. As stated the idle adjustment screw is just slightly to the left of that pesky accel rod linkage.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Not ignoring you, been busy with messenger and PMs. Rogue has got you covered quite well, along with doc, both of which have done a better job than I probably could have.

Besides, I definitely do not have all the answers, all the time, even if I did, it's not fair to other's who can answer.