lookin good. im assume that the welder is a clarke or simalar then? you could get away with a 115-120volt welder as long as you dont need to do any 3/16ths or thicker stuff in a single pass. look into a hobart if you only need to use it for a flanges and manifolds etc.... they are about 200$ cheaper then a miller hobarts start at around 340$ +/-. or you can get a linclon from homedepot for around 320$ or so.
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Originally Posted by kapn krunch
(Post 7316689)
lookin good. im assume that the welder is a clarke or simalar then? you could get away with a 115-120volt welder as long as you dont need to do any 3/16ths or thicker stuff in a single pass. look into a hobart if you only need to use it for a flanges and manifolds etc.... they are about 200$ cheaper then a miller hobarts start at around 340$ +/-. or you can get a linclon from homedepot for around 320$ or so.
3/16 would be max I would need to do. Do you think there would be any way I could use a Hobart for that ? We're talking a gas shielded unit right ? |
Yeah sorry I meant your FD. I may be interested in the setup if you decide to sell it. Was thinking about using something like fuel cell foam, or custom welded baffles and a bung on the bottom of the tank, but not the greatest setup by any means...
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 7316701)
No, it was a Century Powermate 70 Flux Core. I can't beleive people can actually sell that POS and get away with it. I bought it yesterday and sold it today on craigslist :ugh2:
3/16 would be max I would need to do. Do you think there would be any way I could use a Hobart for that ? We're talking a gas shielded unit right ? I have a lincon electric 110v handymig, its a flux/sheilded gas job, will do 3/16th single pass if you were good,, i always backstep just for peace of mind I got mine from walmart of all places, homedepot should carry it also |
Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
(Post 7316807)
I have a lincon electric 110v handymig, its a flux/sheilded gas job, will do 3/16th single pass if you were good,, i always backstep just for peace of mind
I got mine from walmart of all places, homedepot should carry it also I think it's time for a "Which welder are you using" thread :lol2: |
back stepping, back stiching, ive hurd it described many things
for example, weld 1/4" forward, then go 1/8" back, then 1/4" forward again, 1/8" back again, all one motion not stopping wire feed. i do it with as little wire speed as possible so the first pass the weld is still a dip, then when i pass back over it, its hopfully flush im no pro, however someone who welds alot showed me this, and so far my exhaust's, two exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, and random body work have held up with this method, so ill continue using it |
Looks good Eric!!! Oh and BTW you go a fat ass rear end.
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Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 7316854)
Looks good Eric!!! Oh and BTW you go a fat ass rear end.
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Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
(Post 7316841)
back stepping, back stiching, ive hurd it described many things
for example, weld 1/4" forward, then go 1/8" back, then 1/4" forward again, 1/8" back again, all one motion not stopping wire feed. i do it with as little wire speed as possible so the first pass the weld is still a dip, then when i pass back over it, its hopfully flush im no pro, however someone who welds alot showed me this, and so far my exhaust's, two exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, and random body work have held up with this method, so ill continue using it |
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&cName=Welding
looks what i have. harbor freight has $50 autoshading masks, my local shop can get the wire sheith that the wire goes though for $10 that is sized for non-flux wire, you should beable to get the same, $100 for a bottle and ur golden i like the >><>><>><>><>> method |
Post pics of your welds and i will tell you what your doing wrong. Also what are you setting the welder at?
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Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 7316889)
Post pics of your welds and i will tell you what your doing wrong. Also what are you setting the welder at?
Have you worked with any good decently priced 120V units ? |
Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
(Post 7316888)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&cName=Welding
looks what i have. harbor freight has $50 autoshading masks, my local shop can get the wire sheith that the wire goes though for $10 that is sized for non-flux wire, you should beable to get the same, $100 for a bottle and ur golden i like the >><>><>><>><>> method |
you can do 3/16 with the hobart if you bevel the edges and make sure you get the weld puddle hot enough ive done 1/8th inch with a double pass with a hobart. the problem i have with the linclons is the dont have infinetly adjustable knobs they just click into one spot and thats all you get.
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 7316927)
Well, I threw away all the metal I was playing with last night and even if I did post pictures. I have a feeling that you would just say it's the welder. It would simply leave little balls of metal on whatever I was working with which was easily brushed off.
Have you worked with any good decently priced 120V units ? I have used a Hobart, Lincoln, Firepower (made by Lincoln), and Miller. They all work, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. You would be absolutely amazed what you can do with a (good) 110V welder. I welded a lot of my cage with one. If all it is doing is leaving little balls you are either going way too fast, you have the heat down too far, or you have the wire speed up too high. |
Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 7316927)
Well, I threw away all the metal I was playing with last night and even if I did post pictures. I have a feeling that you would just say it's the welder. It would simply leave little balls of metal on whatever I was working with which was easily brushed off.
Have you worked with any good decently priced 120V units ? |
its not an upgrade, its a consumable.
the flux wire is a .035 diameter and the non flux is .025 (you can get diff dia wire but i always use the .025) you should use the correct size tip's for the wire your using, and if you want you can also get the correct size wire sheith maby somebody else can chimp in on the correct name, i just bring the broken one i have and get a new one. it looks a cable shieth you would use on a bicycle or something without the rubber coating i have both a .035 and .025, obviously i cant run flux wire though the .025 shieth, and ive had trouble with the .025 wire binding in the .035 shieth, maby because of the extra room or because of the flux wire leaving flux in the shieth |
Originally Posted by kapn krunch
(Post 7316939)
the problem i have with the linclons is the dont have infinetly adjustable knobs they just click into one spot and thats all you get.
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Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 7316941)
I have used a Hobart, Lincoln, Firepower (made by Lincoln), and Miller. They all work, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. You would be absolutely amazed what you can do with a (good) 110V welder. I welded a lot of my cage with one. If all it is doing is leaving little balls you are either going way too fast, you have the heat down too far, or you have the wire speed up too high.
Anyhow, the duty cycle was horrible. The box would turn off for 15 minutes after about 3 minutes of playing. I played and played with it and not once did it ever penetrate anything. I was playing with 1/4 steel brackets though. :confused: What type of 11Ov welder are you using ? |
Originally Posted by kapn krunch
(Post 7316944)
i can try and upload some pics of stuff ive done with a hobart and a miller or oxy exctelyne later if youd like to see what you can get out of one of the millers. im not a pro just a hobbist
I'm interested in the Lincoln that Crackerheadmel is using. |
cracker huh :D
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I have a Firepower right now (they were made by Lincoln at the time) and it works pretty good. I used a new Lincoln the other day and i was VERY impressed. If i was to buy a new 110v welder it would be a Lincoln.
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Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
(Post 7316954)
mines infinetly variable between all the settings on the speed/temp knob, ive hurd some have to be set in specific spots, but mine isnt like that
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the one i have was purchased though walmart a couple of years ago, it does have the 1 knob which is a combination adjustment for both speed and voltage (but infiently variable, doesnt stick anywhere, i can be at 3.25 for example), however it has 2 selector switches also for high / low speed and high / low voltage, so i can be low heat, high speed for somthing thin for example
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Originally Posted by kapn krunch
(Post 7316990)
viking were you trying to weld with flux core?
This is what I bought yesterday and sold today :icon_no2: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/DSC00155.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...m/DSC00153.jpg |
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