1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

I am thinking fuel filter clogged...

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Old 11-19-08 | 01:02 AM
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Kent. I think that I may have to make a house call on this one
Old 11-19-08 | 07:23 PM
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please confirm that the fuel return line is free flowing, reads like a symptom of that kind of plugging.
Old 11-19-08 | 09:03 PM
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Blew through it, and it is clear. Made some nice gargling sounds.

PS I have had my nikki deadheaded before. No problems.

Last edited by Jeezus; 11-19-08 at 09:05 PM.
Old 11-20-08 | 11:44 PM
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Sounds like you're no longer hypermiling the car, then, Stu. Where was your mileage before you came back to us?
Old 11-21-08 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Crit
Sounds like you're no longer hypermiling the car, then, Stu. Where was your mileage before you came back to us?
You lost me crit. I made 33 or 34mpg city hypermiling.

That was a few months back.

Sucks cause I was about to hypermile it again, this time on the highway. Figure I would hit up the OGTA meet and head back, check it like that.
Old 11-21-08 | 12:36 AM
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Did you grab that other carb from Josh's house and try it like I suggested?
Old 11-21-08 | 01:08 AM
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I am still AT josh's. And now it is OUR's.
Old 11-21-08 | 11:27 AM
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I think all that hypermiling has pissed off the car's sportscar heart, and it is now exacting it's revenge.

If the bowls are and remain properly full when running, it's not a pump or fuel line problem.

If you're sure it's not feeding gas from the bowls properly (you said even the accel pump feed looked anemic), carb is the only possibility.

From the wild hare department; any chance you've developed an exhaust restriction? If air can't flow out, nothing much flows in either.

Tried a vacuum gauge?
Old 12-03-08 | 03:49 PM
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Bump. So I got another carb. Has maybe 2000 miles since it was last rebuilt, and pulled off a running car within the past week. Start it up and the same thing happens.


So far:

New fuel filter
Cleared the lines to and from tank
New rebuilt carb
New plugs
Cap and rotor has maybe 1000 miles on it

It has maybe 2500 on the oil change. I am thinking I should change it out now, since that is when I usually change it. Is there anyway to completely drain all the oil, including the cooler? I know it has a thermostat in it, but if the car cant run, it can't warm up.
Old 12-03-08 | 04:00 PM
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- any cats on the car? (I doubt it )
- so shutter valve is removed, right?
- have you tested the fuel pump volume output?
- maybe you have a bad plug wire or bad coil (could check with timing light)
- double check cap/rotor for damage
Old 12-03-08 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
- any cats on the car? (I doubt it )
- so shutter valve is removed, right?
- have you tested the fuel pump volume output?
- maybe you have a bad plug wire or bad coil (could check with timing light)
- double check cap/rotor for damage
No cats.
Nothing on the carb but a throttle cable
Negative.
Checked coils, they are good. Might need to get new wires
Double checked, they still look brand new.


I can't think of anything that will cause it to act like this after high RPM. It was fine, then I "blew the carbon out" and now its shitty

Going to do the fuel pump volume test.
Old 12-04-08 | 12:14 AM
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so, did you ever get this thing figured out?
Old 12-04-08 | 12:16 AM
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I'm still putting money on exhaust blockage.
Old 12-04-08 | 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I'm still putting money on exhaust blockage.
Nothing in the exhaust TO block. It is all free flow. The only thing that might break off would be the rear muffler. I will shine a light down it and see what I can find.
Old 12-04-08 | 12:57 AM
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Stu. I hate to say it, but are you sure your getting good compression on all faces of each rotor?
Old 12-04-08 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bad 83
Stu. I hate to say it, but are you sure your getting good compression on all faces of each rotor?
Yes, I have checked 10 times, literally.
Old 12-04-08 | 08:55 AM
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Maybe theres something stuck down in your intake manifold or maybe a gasket got sucked into the way but then I would expect some other symptoms like running rough? Hmmm, take the intake and carb off and see how the gaskets look.
Old 12-04-08 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeezus
Nothing in the exhaust TO block. It is all free flow. The only thing that might break off would be the rear muffler. I will shine a light down it and see what I can find.
Oh.

No pre-silencer that may have had the grid break up internally & pile up in the flow path? Had that happen once on a different car, behaved much like what you have described.

Maybe a rat crawled in there and died?

One other thing you might check, it's low probability but it's easy; loosen your belts and see if the alternator and water pump (& AC if you still have it) turn freely by hand. I once had an alternator bearing sieze so badly on my old Camaro that it stalled the 305 at highway speed. A long shot, but too much mechanical drag could act this way.

Last edited by DivinDriver; 12-04-08 at 10:21 AM.
Old 12-05-08 | 03:38 PM
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Old 12-05-08 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Tried a vacuum gauge?
Old 12-06-08 | 03:46 PM
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Well, I ran out and got some hose, and a bolt with some clamps, and clamped it all up nice and tight, so no more vacuum leaks.












Started the car and still sounds like ****.
Old 12-06-08 | 08:08 PM
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Well I give up. It is going to Mazda on Monday. A buddy there owes me a favor.
Old 12-08-08 | 02:30 PM
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Bump!

So the verdict is in, I didn't have to go to mazda. Pulled the plugs again (after fixing the vacuum leak) and they were drenched on the rear rotor. Pull them out and gas slid down the outside of the engine :O

120 miles on her today
Old 12-08-08 | 09:25 PM
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Wow, glad you finally solved the mystery~ I bet it felt good stretching your (and your car's) legs once again.
Old 12-08-08 | 09:47 PM
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congrats! ... so the vac. leak caused it to foul a plug?


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