HP torque for blowthrough?
03-24-05, 07:31 PM
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
Your robert from rotaryshack aren't you??? Well, if you are, I sent an email last night asking about using a mikuni carb with a turbo. Will it work?? I would like to know because I've been offered a mikuni of unknown size with intake manifold.
its most likly a 44mm, great for smooth driveability
03-24-05, 07:33 PM
#27
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by mikey D
I had this setup pretty much
upgrade your stock turbo with a 60 compressor wheel and housing and you can make 300whp
i did 250whp@10lbs of boost non intercooled with a 60 compressor upgraded s5 turbo, stockport s5 13b, 50mm weber and ran 12 second quarter miles pretty easily on the stock 13 inch wheels.
drivability isnt as good as EFI by any means.
full boost can be achived on the setup i mentiond under 4k rpms in 1st gear.
curising the boost will raise slower but it will be very linear.
first gear is honestly a bitch unless your racing. just bump it and shift into second.
It may be differnt for others. my car was light as hell. very stripped and I have a race type suspension in my car.
upgrade your stock turbo with a 60 compressor wheel and housing and you can make 300whp
i did 250whp@10lbs of boost non intercooled with a 60 compressor upgraded s5 turbo, stockport s5 13b, 50mm weber and ran 12 second quarter miles pretty easily on the stock 13 inch wheels.
drivability isnt as good as EFI by any means.
full boost can be achived on the setup i mentiond under 4k rpms in 1st gear.
curising the boost will raise slower but it will be very linear.
first gear is honestly a bitch unless your racing. just bump it and shift into second.
It may be differnt for others. my car was light as hell. very stripped and I have a race type suspension in my car.
03-24-05, 07:50 PM
#28
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by fitzwarryne
Alex-7. The problem with throwing hp figures around is the great majority of dynoes are extremely inaccurate and useless for absolute measurement.
--Alex
03-24-05, 10:36 PM
#29
I think ET's are too innacurate to rate performance, unless you have the best driver, best day, with best fuel, and best tires. A typical sporty driver could squeeze a 14.5 out of an S2K. REally good drivers get 14.1, and the best of the best can pull of a (i have heard) 13.9. These are the same cars, with same stock setup, with same stock tires.
Horsepower is far more accurate, especially if measured on the same dyno. There may be some percentage error from one dyno manufacturer to the next, but each specific dyno is going to read the exact same hp every pull, where each quarter mile run is going to be different every time. Yes, many drivers, including myself, can pull fairly consistent times, but using ET's as a comparison involves human error, and using HP involves machine error. Human error is almost always more than machine error.
Horsepower is far more accurate, especially if measured on the same dyno. There may be some percentage error from one dyno manufacturer to the next, but each specific dyno is going to read the exact same hp every pull, where each quarter mile run is going to be different every time. Yes, many drivers, including myself, can pull fairly consistent times, but using ET's as a comparison involves human error, and using HP involves machine error. Human error is almost always more than machine error.
03-26-05, 10:38 PM
#30
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shm21824- I fully agree that to run a dyno test on the same day on the same dyno gives an accurate hp comparison between two vehicles. My concept is that ET is more accurate than if its different dynos on different days. I presume all forum drivers are competent!
The formulae given by Directfreak is useful, I checked it against some known results and if its rwhp the result is accurate within 5%. Its horrifying if you see the difference in 20lb in driver weight- must go on a diet.
I would love to see such a formila established for cost versus hp. As a personal rule of thumb my current breakeven is $30 a hp. Should I go for a solid battery for $200 extra compared with a conventional battery?
The formulae given by Directfreak is useful, I checked it against some known results and if its rwhp the result is accurate within 5%. Its horrifying if you see the difference in 20lb in driver weight- must go on a diet.
I would love to see such a formila established for cost versus hp. As a personal rule of thumb my current breakeven is $30 a hp. Should I go for a solid battery for $200 extra compared with a conventional battery?
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