How many people use royal purple oil??
#26
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Thanks Blake for your input on this subject.
I've always appreciated you and Robs help @ Pinapple Racing in the past years and look forward to it in the Future.
I did the OMP Block-Off way and Run Redline Syn 2 Cycle Oil in the Gas Tank, w/Castrol 20-50 Good Ol Dino Oil. (Sorry Old School Style).
Hopefully I'll get a chance to stop by the Shop on my way back from Seattle on Tuesday.
Steve
sgieldon
I've always appreciated you and Robs help @ Pinapple Racing in the past years and look forward to it in the Future.
I did the OMP Block-Off way and Run Redline Syn 2 Cycle Oil in the Gas Tank, w/Castrol 20-50 Good Ol Dino Oil. (Sorry Old School Style).
Hopefully I'll get a chance to stop by the Shop on my way back from Seattle on Tuesday.
Steve
sgieldon
#27
Originally Posted by Blake
Sure. We love synthetics. I've used Royal Purple products since 1999 with great success. RP sponsored my GRM race cars in 2001, 2002, 2003. David Canitz of Royal Purple is a good friend and he even visited our shop a couple weeks ago. We hang out with him at SEMA and Sevenstock. He owns an FD and has raced rotary engines in GT3 for many years. He knows synthetics and he knows rotaries...what could be better?!
Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.
As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.
Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.
Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.
Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.
As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.
Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.
Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.
Thats kinda crazy. Intresting info there. But i will definetly stick to my usual 3 month oil changes. You know (this is a little off topic sorry) i also have been using LUCAS OIL STABILIZER the past two oil changes and this thing has SIGNIFICANTLY reduced my dowel pin leak. I think the 12A runs a little smother with it as well. But thats just me.
#28
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Originally Posted by Onlyonthurs
Thats kinda crazy. Intresting info there. But i will definetly stick to my usual 3 month oil changes. You know (this is a little off topic sorry) i also have been using LUCAS OIL STABILIZER the past two oil changes and this thing has SIGNIFICANTLY reduced my dowel pin leak. I think the 12A runs a little smother with it as well. But thats just me.
#29
Originally Posted by Blake
Sure. We love synthetics. I've used Royal Purple products since 1999 with great success. RP sponsored my GRM race cars in 2001, 2002, 2003. David Canitz of Royal Purple is a good friend and he even visited our shop a couple weeks ago. We hang out with him at SEMA and Sevenstock. He owns an FD and has raced rotary engines in GT3 for many years. He knows synthetics and he knows rotaries...what could be better?!
Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.
As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.
Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.
Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.
Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.
As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.
Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.
Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.
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