How many people use royal purple oil??
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#8
Do your break in on conventional motor oil and then switch to synthetic. Conventional oil lets everything seat well, break in on synthetic will take much longer and surfaces may never seat well.
#11
MattG FTW!!!!!
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It is true, even Royal Purple itself does not suggest that you use its product in an engine until it has been broken in.
Straight from RP's site
Can I put Royal Purple® into my brand new car?
Yes. Royal Purple® currently offers many viscosity grades of API Licensed Motor Oils. (See the Royal Purple® Motor Oil Product Page or visit the API Engine Oil Licensing and Certification Website for more information). To allow for proper break in of the engine, Royal Purple® recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple® in diesel engines.
There is even a section just for Rotary
http://royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
Straight from RP's site
Can I put Royal Purple® into my brand new car?
Yes. Royal Purple® currently offers many viscosity grades of API Licensed Motor Oils. (See the Royal Purple® Motor Oil Product Page or visit the API Engine Oil Licensing and Certification Website for more information). To allow for proper break in of the engine, Royal Purple® recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple® in diesel engines.
There is even a section just for Rotary
http://royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
Last edited by MattG; 08-20-06 at 01:00 AM.
#14
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Every Rotary Engine Builder states to Break in your Motor with Dino Oil @ Min of 2000 Before running Syn ie. RP-Redline-Mobile One.
You will have to either Block Off the OMP and add 2cycle Oil to your Gas or Convert your existing Oil Pump to be able to use a Resivior to hold 2cycle Oil.
If you go the Block Off way, add 1oz of 2cycle Oil Per Gallon of Gas before adding the Gas.
Makes it Mix up Better.
Sorry about the Spelling=alittle hung over this Sunday Morning!!!!
There are many write ups here on this Subject.
Search=Pre Mix.
sgieldon
steve
You will have to either Block Off the OMP and add 2cycle Oil to your Gas or Convert your existing Oil Pump to be able to use a Resivior to hold 2cycle Oil.
If you go the Block Off way, add 1oz of 2cycle Oil Per Gallon of Gas before adding the Gas.
Makes it Mix up Better.
Sorry about the Spelling=alittle hung over this Sunday Morning!!!!
There are many write ups here on this Subject.
Search=Pre Mix.
sgieldon
steve
#15
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
You always break in the motor with conventional dino oil.
I use RP exclusively in my REPU now. It immediately lowered oil temps by 10*F. Less friction boys. Lasts as long as Mobil1. Don't forget to change oil filter and top off every 3000miles.
Burns well, takes the heat of auto-x fine. Love it.
Also use it in trans and diff.
I use RP exclusively in my REPU now. It immediately lowered oil temps by 10*F. Less friction boys. Lasts as long as Mobil1. Don't forget to change oil filter and top off every 3000miles.
Burns well, takes the heat of auto-x fine. Love it.
Also use it in trans and diff.
#16
Racing is life!
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Originally Posted by sgieldon
Every Rotary Engine Builder states to Break in your Motor with Dino Oil @ Min of 2000 Before running Syn ie. RP-Redline-Mobile One.
You will have to either Block Off the OMP and add 2cycle Oil to your Gas or Convert your existing Oil Pump to be able to use a Resivior to hold 2cycle Oil.
If you go the Block Off way, add 1oz of 2cycle Oil Per Gallon of Gas before adding the Gas.
Makes it Mix up Better.
Sorry about the Spelling=alittle hung over this Sunday Morning!!!!
There are many write ups here on this Subject.
Search=Pre Mix.
sgieldon
steve
You will have to either Block Off the OMP and add 2cycle Oil to your Gas or Convert your existing Oil Pump to be able to use a Resivior to hold 2cycle Oil.
If you go the Block Off way, add 1oz of 2cycle Oil Per Gallon of Gas before adding the Gas.
Makes it Mix up Better.
Sorry about the Spelling=alittle hung over this Sunday Morning!!!!
There are many write ups here on this Subject.
Search=Pre Mix.
sgieldon
steve
Paul
#19
Originally Posted by driftorx7
Damm i was one of those guys who always thought that is very bad to put synthetic in a rotory!! i might just start to use some synthetic.
#25
Originally Posted by sgieldon
Blake;
Since you and Rob built my Engine! (Care to Chime in on this Subject?
sgieldon
steve
Since you and Rob built my Engine! (Care to Chime in on this Subject?
sgieldon
steve
Rob, being a creature of habit, still runs Mobil 1. I think it's been 15+ years now.
As for break-in, we recommend you run mineral oil for at least 3,000 miles. Once you switch to synthetics the break-in stops, so if your oil control rings are not broken-in yet you will always have relatively high oil consumption.
Synthetics are not always the economical choice and the benefits are minimal on older engines. For turbo engines, which have a relatively high degree of combustion gas blow-by, you need to continue changing oil at frequent intervals. Have the oil tested for fuel dilution to see how often. Non-turbo engines in prime condition can extend oil changes to 6 months or even a year, so long as you continue to change the filter every 3K miles. Again, it's a smart idea to test the oil for fuel to see if this interval is good for you.
Synthetics do burn. With the way normal enthusiasts drive, we have seen less build-up than mineral oil. This may not be the case if you just tool around at low RPMs all the time, but those people generally don't spend the money on synthetic oil in the first place. Regardless of the oil, be it mineral or synthetic, it is always best to drive with enthusiasm (hit redline occationally) to minimize carbon build-up. This is not to say you should "drive it like you stole it", however. Cruising at high RPMs is abusive, causing excessive wear and tear needlessly. Visit the readline; don't live there.