How low can a 1st gen go on t3 coilovers?
#1
How low can a 1st gen go on t3 coilovers?
As the title states. I did some poking around and learned a bunch about the coilovers but have yet to see any pictures of an FB lowered beyond maybe 1.5" from stock. I'm wanting a pretty aggressive look, so post em if you've got em. Even if you're not that low a picture and an explanation of how far down the perch is adjusted would help a ton. Thanks!
Pic is my goal (and if anyone knows the car in the picture let me know)
Pic is my goal (and if anyone knows the car in the picture let me know)
#7
Ok maybe that picture is a little over exaggerated. I'm not going for a rock solid auto-x build, I just want it to be low and still be fun to drive. Here's a a bit more of an exception as far as ride hight/wheel gap goes.
Im going in to the T3 shop today, since I just learned they are 20mins away. If I learn anything I'll post back so we can have some actual answers in the thread.
Im going in to the T3 shop today, since I just learned they are 20mins away. If I learn anything I'll post back so we can have some actual answers in the thread.
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#10
So I had a chance to visit the Techno Toy Tuning garage today. Met the owner and a couple of the guys at the shop, they do awesome work and were super cool. They let me look around the shop and it just so happened they had an fb set up with every suspension component they make and some that they don't even offer yet. Here's the car.
This is on 15x8 et+15 wheels and is dropped pretty low, right about where I want to sit, plus it had about 1" more available drop all the way around. So safe to say you can slam it pretty damn low on this setup if that's what you want. Looking forward to getting a set when the car is ready.
This is on 15x8 et+15 wheels and is dropped pretty low, right about where I want to sit, plus it had about 1" more available drop all the way around. So safe to say you can slam it pretty damn low on this setup if that's what you want. Looking forward to getting a set when the car is ready.
#11
Senior Member
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
That is cool you got to visit TTT.
Check the website, the rear harness bar and the traction drop mounts are available.
I hope to be placing an order with them soon, I have Stance Coils bu will get TTT front arms and traction rods and rear lower trailing arms.
Looks to be very quality stuff.
Get their coils and install them.
Check the website, the rear harness bar and the traction drop mounts are available.
I hope to be placing an order with them soon, I have Stance Coils bu will get TTT front arms and traction rods and rear lower trailing arms.
Looks to be very quality stuff.
Get their coils and install them.
#14
Doritos & Dual Sports
iTrader: (8)
Ok maybe that picture is a little over exaggerated. I'm not going for a rock solid auto-x build, I just want it to be low and still be fun to drive. Here's a a bit more of an exception as far as ride hight/wheel gap goes.
Im going in to the T3 shop today, since I just learned they are 20mins away. If I learn anything I'll post back so we can have some actual answers in the thread.
Im going in to the T3 shop today, since I just learned they are 20mins away. If I learn anything I'll post back so we can have some actual answers in the thread.
#16
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Check put mariahmotorsports, aka Design Energy in CA. Also, the skirts look to me like Pacific, as they are much more 'pointy' where they go up the wells. In the second pic posted by a forum member, those are Mazda Factory Race skirts, which were flatter going up the wells, and with a pronounced rounded edge which curled under toward the bottom side.
The MFR skirts are fiberglass, and Pacific are Fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP).
The MFR skirts are fiberglass, and Pacific are Fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP).
#19
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Low + Fun to drive? That's impossible.
Here's my technique for balancing appearance.
1) Go to a bar.
2) Get into a fight. Black eyes help.
Or!
Run longer side panels and front and rear valences made of urethane that are designed to scrape and absorb impact. The BODY of the vehicle can stay at OEM height or a little lower, yet it appears to be totally stanced out.
Taller tires = higher ride height (good), and better functionality
Shorter tires = scraping on factory suspension (bad)
There's no reason to ruin a beautiful car with stupid, but I can't fix stupid.
Here's my technique for balancing appearance.
1) Go to a bar.
2) Get into a fight. Black eyes help.
Or!
Run longer side panels and front and rear valences made of urethane that are designed to scrape and absorb impact. The BODY of the vehicle can stay at OEM height or a little lower, yet it appears to be totally stanced out.
Taller tires = higher ride height (good), and better functionality
Shorter tires = scraping on factory suspension (bad)
There's no reason to ruin a beautiful car with stupid, but I can't fix stupid.
#20
Low + Fun to drive? That's impossible.
Here's my technique for balancing appearance.
1) Go to a bar.
2) Get into a fight. Black eyes help.
Or!
Run longer side panels and front and rear valences made of urethane that are designed to scrape and absorb impact. The BODY of the vehicle can stay at OEM height or a little lower, yet it appears to be totally stanced out.
Taller tires = higher ride height (good), and better functionality
Shorter tires = scraping on factory suspension (bad)
There's no reason to ruin a beautiful car with stupid, but I can't fix stupid.
Here's my technique for balancing appearance.
1) Go to a bar.
2) Get into a fight. Black eyes help.
Or!
Run longer side panels and front and rear valences made of urethane that are designed to scrape and absorb impact. The BODY of the vehicle can stay at OEM height or a little lower, yet it appears to be totally stanced out.
Taller tires = higher ride height (good), and better functionality
Shorter tires = scraping on factory suspension (bad)
There's no reason to ruin a beautiful car with stupid, but I can't fix stupid.
Also thanks a bunch for the skirt info!
#21
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
#2 You should be more concerned with damper travel, riding on bumpstops, and fender well clearances.
Low is slow. Slow is always uncomfortable. I wanna go fast.
#23
Work in Progress
iTrader: (9)
I have the T3 suspension package. I had the front dialed down to about what they have on the car posted in this thread. I had < 1" of travel left on the struts. T3 also makes a spacer you can put in the raise the top of the strut to add travel but I haven't tried that.
I bought their complete coilover setup where they weld the struts for you and what they should have done is welded the collar lower on the strut tubes allowing for more travel.
I bought their complete coilover setup where they weld the struts for you and what they should have done is welded the collar lower on the strut tubes allowing for more travel.
#24
I need a cheaper hobby...
iTrader: (14)
Sometimes here and other places, doing what you want to your own car is frowned upon. Do what you want. I have t3 coilovers on my sa but haven't received my tires yet and i'm still waiting on my rear springs and perches to come in. My SA is in MINT condition and i'm putting flares on it because i wanted really wide wheels and have a gsl-se suspension installed.
#25
Reviving this thread for some opinions...
For those of you that have T3 coilovers and other parts, what's been your experience so far? What spring rates did you go with? I'm building my car for rallycross, hillclimb, rallysprint, and eventually stage rally. I'm considering the pre-built front and rear set, camber plates, and perhaps some other adjustable bits. Any advice on what I should get and what I should avoid?
For those of you that have T3 coilovers and other parts, what's been your experience so far? What spring rates did you go with? I'm building my car for rallycross, hillclimb, rallysprint, and eventually stage rally. I'm considering the pre-built front and rear set, camber plates, and perhaps some other adjustable bits. Any advice on what I should get and what I should avoid?