how to install Racing Beat header
#28
Originally Posted by Racing Beat
Manifold/Header Heat Shield
12A & 13B- 1974-95 All Models
The Header Heat Shield is designed to function only with the Racing Beat Holley Intake Manifold, and prevents much of the heat radiated by the headers from reaching the manifold, reducing the intake temperature and allowing the engine to produce slightly more power. Also, the fuel in the carburetor float bowls is less likely to boil when a hot engine is shut off. (This shield cannot be used with a stock exhaust manifolds.)
12A & 13B- 1974-95 All Models
The Header Heat Shield is designed to function only with the Racing Beat Holley Intake Manifold, and prevents much of the heat radiated by the headers from reaching the manifold, reducing the intake temperature and allowing the engine to produce slightly more power. Also, the fuel in the carburetor float bowls is less likely to boil when a hot engine is shut off. (This shield cannot be used with a stock exhaust manifolds.)
#29
send it back and get heat wrap. I can touch my headers after driving. only for a secound or so but still. or you can just modify the top part of the stock heat sheild. thats what I did till I got the wrap. I just pounded the back out a bit.
#30
For the record, you do not have to remove the air pump and air control valve to install the SE-headers. I have mine installed, and they work just fine - even pumping a slight amount of air into the Racing Beat presilencer to help cool the exhaust flow.
You'll notice that on an SE exhaust there is the air control pipe that goes to the #3 catalytic converter to supply fresh air from the air pump. This has a one-way diaphragm valve and a T-connection off of it that allows backpressure from the exhaust to come back to the intake to operate the '6'-ports. The air control valve normally pumps fresh air into the #3 cat, but now your presilencer under certain driving conditions, and you can leave that system totally intact and the SE headers will run just fine.
With the emissions controls we have in my city, I've gotten to where I can swap in my stock exhaust system (with working cats) in about an hour, drive it down to have it tested (passes easily), drive it home, and have the RB header and presilencer back on in another hour. Sure, it's a pain, but necessary to get it registered and tagged here. The point being that it's simple, straight-forward, and doesn't require removal of the air pump or air control valve. HTH,
You'll notice that on an SE exhaust there is the air control pipe that goes to the #3 catalytic converter to supply fresh air from the air pump. This has a one-way diaphragm valve and a T-connection off of it that allows backpressure from the exhaust to come back to the intake to operate the '6'-ports. The air control valve normally pumps fresh air into the #3 cat, but now your presilencer under certain driving conditions, and you can leave that system totally intact and the SE headers will run just fine.
With the emissions controls we have in my city, I've gotten to where I can swap in my stock exhaust system (with working cats) in about an hour, drive it down to have it tested (passes easily), drive it home, and have the RB header and presilencer back on in another hour. Sure, it's a pain, but necessary to get it registered and tagged here. The point being that it's simple, straight-forward, and doesn't require removal of the air pump or air control valve. HTH,
#31
For the record, you do not have to remove the air pump and air control valve to install the SE-headers. I have mine installed, and they work just fine - even pumping a slight amount of air into the Racing Beat presilencer to help cool the exhaust flow.
You'll notice that on an SE exhaust there is the air control pipe that goes to the #3 catalytic converter to supply fresh air from the air pump. This has a one-way diaphragm valve and a T-connection off of it that allows backpressure from the exhaust to come back to the intake to operate the '6'-ports. The air control valve normally pumps fresh air into the #3 cat, but now your presilencer under certain driving conditions, and you can leave that system totally intact and the SE headers will run just fine.
With the emissions controls we have in my city, I've gotten to where I can swap in my stock exhaust system (with working cats) in about an hour, drive it down to have it tested (passes easily), drive it home, and have the RB header and presilencer back on in another hour. Sure, it's a pain, but necessary to get it registered and tagged here. The point being that it's simple, straight-forward, and doesn't require removal of the air pump or air control valve. HTH,
You'll notice that on an SE exhaust there is the air control pipe that goes to the #3 catalytic converter to supply fresh air from the air pump. This has a one-way diaphragm valve and a T-connection off of it that allows backpressure from the exhaust to come back to the intake to operate the '6'-ports. The air control valve normally pumps fresh air into the #3 cat, but now your presilencer under certain driving conditions, and you can leave that system totally intact and the SE headers will run just fine.
With the emissions controls we have in my city, I've gotten to where I can swap in my stock exhaust system (with working cats) in about an hour, drive it down to have it tested (passes easily), drive it home, and have the RB header and presilencer back on in another hour. Sure, it's a pain, but necessary to get it registered and tagged here. The point being that it's simple, straight-forward, and doesn't require removal of the air pump or air control valve. HTH,
#33
You will only lose the amount of horsepower that it takes to turn the airpump, which is minimal. If you've ever had an airpump out of the car, it's on bearings, and it is super easy to turn, so I'm thinking that with frictional belt losses, having to power up the airpump, maybe 1 hp, tops...?
Not worth removing in my view. You could put in new spark plugs and yield more power gains than that.
I'd leave it in, but that's me, and I did.
Not worth removing in my view. You could put in new spark plugs and yield more power gains than that.
I'd leave it in, but that's me, and I did.
#35
ok so i installed the header this weekend, DAM thing is LOUD hehe,But i used header wrap and from what ive been told i shouldnt use header wrap because water will get traped in header wrap and rust out my header real fast,I have heat shield comming in the mail but it's not here yeat, I have installed header wrap on the header allready Im woundering if i should take header wrap off after i get heat shield installed
#36
that's total BS. if water DOES get in it, it'll only happen while driving in the rain. but then the header will be very hot and will evaporate any water that MIGHT get in the wrap. check with others that actually use header wrap. i think u'll hear different.
#37
header wrap is fine as long as your ehaust doesnt overheat. it does deteriate faster, but will still last 15 years or so. the RB header is stainless steel. rust isnt really an issue.
#38
the RB header is not stainless. It's a ceramic coated mild steel. If it were SS, it would weigh 1/3 of what it does.
#39
http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm
#41
I'm still not seeing the SS header on their site. I'll have to continue my search after work tonight. Is it a FC header? I looked under the "Hi-Perf Exhaust" submenu for both the FB and FC and did not see any listings for a SS header.
#43
#44
I thought they were all stainless. I bought mine used, I'm 100% sure I have the stainless version though. I had no flange and I had to weld on a peace to fit my slip fit exhaust. I had to Tig it to get a decent weld. the mig just wasn't doing the job. worked for the rest of the exhast though. Its blued now like everyone elses though.
#45
so i recived the heat shield from racing beat and it dosent fit my 13b......they told me it will fit,So im sending it back and getting my money back,Dose anyone know where i can get a heat shield that will fit my stock 13b manfold, site and part number would be nice
#46
so i recived the heat shield from racing beat and it dosent fit my 13b......they told me it will fit,So im sending it back and getting my money back,Dose anyone know where i can get a heat shield that will fit my stock 13b manfold, site and part number would be nice
#50
If you are wanting to make your own header, Racing Beat sells a "make your own header" kit. Also, I believe you can just buy the part that mates to the block. Check out the exhaust components subsection or give them a call. They are always willing to sell stuff I have noticed.