How does this come off? PLEASE HELP!
03-31-12, 04:25 PM
#1
Rotary Lifer
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How does this come off? PLEASE HELP!
Changing all the bushings on my '85 GSL and I'm stuck on the rear lower control arm. This is the front bolt that I can't seem to get out. I managed to remove the nut but the bolt isn't budging. It looks like theres a small plate that stops it from spinning but it's rusty so it's hard to tell. I've tried everything, including a pry bar.
03-31-12, 05:31 PM
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Rotary Lifer
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Any trick to do that? Soaked it with liquid wrench. Got the bolt to spin but it's not coming out. Could it be fused to the inside of the bushing?
03-31-12, 05:43 PM
#7
If it is spinning and not coming out when you put pressure on it with a pry bar, then it may be carroded to the inside of the bushing, you will have to figure out a way to bump it somehow, maybe hit the pry bar with a hammer? It is awkward to get to, you just have to rig smething up.
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03-31-12, 09:17 PM
#12
FB+FC=F-ME
Id say in a few more months,it should fall off on its own!
Im sorry,I know thats not helpful. Im from CA, and we almost never see that much brown on a car unless its a UPS truck!
Im sorry,I know thats not helpful. Im from CA, and we almost never see that much brown on a car unless its a UPS truck!
03-31-12, 09:21 PM
#13
Rotary Lifer
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So just hit the head of that bolt with an angle grinder then punch the bolt through with a mallet? I just don't wanna cut it then the bolt is STILL fused to the threading lol
03-31-12, 09:42 PM
#14
FB+FC=F-ME
Thats a distinct possibilty,theres a lot of surface area on that bolt to rust up, besides just under the head.
Worst case scenario,you might have to cut both ends off, then take the link and put it under a press to extract the shank. New nut and new bolt, and youll be up and running again. Check the unibody around those control arm mounts,they are known to dissapear into rust.
Worst case scenario,you might have to cut both ends off, then take the link and put it under a press to extract the shank. New nut and new bolt, and youll be up and running again. Check the unibody around those control arm mounts,they are known to dissapear into rust.
03-31-12, 11:39 PM
#16
love the braaaap
Best thing to do with that kind of situation if you are replacing the bushing anyway is to take a sawzall with a metal blade and cut the bolt off on the bushing side of the mounting flanges. They generally rust in there so badly they can't be removed by any means any of us here have. I know from experience dealing with a nearly 20 year old truck that saw very hard use and little washing in an area that saw road salt quite often in the winter. This basically means that the truck was absolutely loaded with rusty parts, most of which had to have the mounting bolts cut off to remove them. Suspension parts are just about the worst too besides exhaust parts for rust since those areas rarely get properly washed off. This is one reason I am glad my 79 has never seen any winter driving, and so far from what i have done, everything has been easily removed. Road salt is truly a killer of metal parts, worse than anything else out there.
04-01-12, 09:51 AM
#17
emissions r teh sux
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if the nut is already off you can try a 3lb sledge and a piece of wood between the hammer and the bolt to try and for enough to get the rust to break. next bet would be either a torch to expand the metal a bit, or cut it off.
04-01-12, 10:31 AM
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04-02-12, 11:35 AM
#19
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The bolt has bonded to the metal sleeve that runs through the bushing. You will never, ever, be able to break it free. You will tear your car apart before that happens. Here's what will save you days of effort and swear words:
Go to Harbor Freight and pay 20 bucks for a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Use that to cut through the bolt BETWEEN THE BUSHING AND THE MOUNT, on each side (so the bushing falls right out). Then replace the bolt and nut, any hardware store should have them.
I spent 4 days on my bushings, making about 5% progress. Then I bought that angle grinder and a bunch of bolts, and did the other 95% in about 4 hours. Best money I ever spent.
.
Go to Harbor Freight and pay 20 bucks for a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Use that to cut through the bolt BETWEEN THE BUSHING AND THE MOUNT, on each side (so the bushing falls right out). Then replace the bolt and nut, any hardware store should have them.
I spent 4 days on my bushings, making about 5% progress. Then I bought that angle grinder and a bunch of bolts, and did the other 95% in about 4 hours. Best money I ever spent.
.
04-02-12, 11:41 AM
#20
The bolt has bonded to the metal sleeve that runs through the bushing. You will never, ever, be able to break it free. You will tear your car apart before that happens. Here's what will save you days of effort and swear words:
Go to Harbor Freight and pay 20 bucks for a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Use that to cut through the bolt BETWEEN THE BUSHING AND THE MOUNT, on each side (so the bushing falls right out). Then replace the bolt and nut, any hardware store should have them.
I spent 4 days on my bushings, making about 5% progress. Then I bought that angle grinder and a bunch of bolts, and did the other 95% in about 4 hours. Best money I ever spent.
.
Go to Harbor Freight and pay 20 bucks for a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Use that to cut through the bolt BETWEEN THE BUSHING AND THE MOUNT, on each side (so the bushing falls right out). Then replace the bolt and nut, any hardware store should have them.
I spent 4 days on my bushings, making about 5% progress. Then I bought that angle grinder and a bunch of bolts, and did the other 95% in about 4 hours. Best money I ever spent.
.
04-02-12, 07:30 PM
#21
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Yup. Once I realized mine were seized to the bushing I didn't even bother with the wrenches. I just chopped em out, brought them to my fastener supplier and torched out the old bushings. This will save you major headache and time. If you use a torch instead of a press or bonfire to get the bushings out, wear a dust mask or respirator. I was sneezing black **** for a week.
04-04-12, 11:43 AM
#22
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Yeah, toss the links into a bonfire and the bushings will expand and squirt right out of the arm. A propane torch can't do this even if you leave it burning for hours. Trust me.
04-04-12, 12:38 PM
#24
You're dealing with what's known as a Galvanic Interaction, and like Kentetsu has stated, you will NEVER get the bolt to come out. Angle grinder with a thin blade. You can (and it's preferable for the strength of the material) burn out the rubber with one or two propane torches. You need to scrape away the burnt material with a cheap standard screwdriver, but it'll come out in 10-15 minutes.
04-04-12, 09:00 PM
#25
Rotary Lifer
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Thanks for all the awesome input guys, I managed to get everything off and all the bushings out. I used a sawzall to cut the bolts and threw the arms in a fire for a few mins and the bushings popped right out. I sent the arms to get sandblasted and painted and started putting all the new bushings in this evening. I took photos of the whole process in case it happens to anyone else. Seems to be fairly common.