how do i adjust redline buzzer?
#2
it's on here somewhere.... search
There's a circuit board diagram somewhere on the forum already...
Jeff
Edit:
Here.... found it for you....
http://www.monmouth.com/%7Erothe/overrev.html
There's a circuit board diagram somewhere on the forum already...
Jeff
Edit:
Here.... found it for you....
http://www.monmouth.com/%7Erothe/overrev.html
Last edited by Keaponlaffen; 12-04-02 at 11:49 PM.
#4
Measure your resistance values before you adjust anything. I'm not adept enough at making the test kit that was used, but was able to "extrapolate" roughly what the values should be for the RPM I wanted. My board has already been adjusted by someone to maybe like 10k! That was just a little high, I thought.
jeryj
jeryj
#5
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Use contact cleaner on the potentiometer befor adjusting it.
Becareful NOT to touch the matt black dial faces- Thi fingerprints/smears are very hard to remove! Lint is your enemy on the gauge faces.
You can also adjust the tightness of the tach needle. It's tight right now (at stock) so it does'nt respond as fast as the engine.
I adjusted mine, and with my carb and aluminum flywheel, watching the tach while reving it looks like a bike!
If you're good with circuitboards, you can get creative, and remove the buzzer and hook up wires for remote operation.
This is what I did. I traced the overrev to the correct buzzer (there is one on each top corner- one is your temp/low fluid warning buzzer). I removed it, and soldered wires to it. I also removed the pot, and did the same. Then I put the gauge clusterfuck back together and installed it with the wires coming out by the console.
I rehooked the pot wires to a larger hand control pot with the same value. (Can't remember what the ohms are- it's on the drawing)
The buzzer is hooked to a small 9V-12V relay. Depending on the relay, you may experience fluxtuation. There is fluxuation coming thru the wires, which why I used a 9V relay.
The relay switch part is then switching a solid 12V going through it, as it's tied into the battery and chassis behind the P seat. (My battery is relocated there) It operates a headlight motor, which has limited, switched movement, and to that is a cable that operates my exhaust dump!
It's VERY cool! I can have my electric exhaust dump come on at whatever RPM I set it for.
Do a search- therte's another thread like this that lists all the cool 007 possibilities.
Becareful NOT to touch the matt black dial faces- Thi fingerprints/smears are very hard to remove! Lint is your enemy on the gauge faces.
You can also adjust the tightness of the tach needle. It's tight right now (at stock) so it does'nt respond as fast as the engine.
I adjusted mine, and with my carb and aluminum flywheel, watching the tach while reving it looks like a bike!
If you're good with circuitboards, you can get creative, and remove the buzzer and hook up wires for remote operation.
This is what I did. I traced the overrev to the correct buzzer (there is one on each top corner- one is your temp/low fluid warning buzzer). I removed it, and soldered wires to it. I also removed the pot, and did the same. Then I put the gauge clusterfuck back together and installed it with the wires coming out by the console.
I rehooked the pot wires to a larger hand control pot with the same value. (Can't remember what the ohms are- it's on the drawing)
The buzzer is hooked to a small 9V-12V relay. Depending on the relay, you may experience fluxtuation. There is fluxuation coming thru the wires, which why I used a 9V relay.
The relay switch part is then switching a solid 12V going through it, as it's tied into the battery and chassis behind the P seat. (My battery is relocated there) It operates a headlight motor, which has limited, switched movement, and to that is a cable that operates my exhaust dump!
It's VERY cool! I can have my electric exhaust dump come on at whatever RPM I set it for.
Do a search- therte's another thread like this that lists all the cool 007 possibilities.
#7
Originally posted by RotaryNotary
Excuse my ignorance, what's an exhaust dump?
Excuse my ignorance, what's an exhaust dump?
The valve that's welded in is somewhat shaped like a 'Y', having two outlets and one inlet. The valve usually has a cable mounted to it that most people run up into the cockpit of the car. Pulling or pushing on the cable will open one outlet and close the other. Usually, if the configuration that I mention first is used, a straight pipe is mounted to the other outlet.
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#12
My '80 doesn't have the buzzer, I know, I tried. But I just got my hands on a new gauge cluster, with a speedo that goes to 200Km/h. I'm currently stuck with the speedo that pins in third gear (85MPH). I'm not sure what year the replacement cluster is, might be a '79 because the tach is still in the center, but I do see a buzzer on the back. Can't wait to hear it wail !!! What's the stock setting, 6500 RPM? Pfft.
#13
On not having the buizzer...
I don't know which models did/didnot, but, I have a total of 3 instrument clusters (84/85). NONE of them buzzed, for a variety of reasons. The potentiometer had either been reset, or the buzzer was broken, or both. I finally learned to short into the buzzer circuitry to test the buzzer itself. If that worked, then I knew the tach or potentiometer was bad.
jeryj
I don't know which models did/didnot, but, I have a total of 3 instrument clusters (84/85). NONE of them buzzed, for a variety of reasons. The potentiometer had either been reset, or the buzzer was broken, or both. I finally learned to short into the buzzer circuitry to test the buzzer itself. If that worked, then I knew the tach or potentiometer was bad.
jeryj
#15
Woooo, I have a buzzer !!! Though it doesn't seem to come on until 7, I'll have pop the cluster back out and reset it to factory standards. It isn't as loud as I expected from he stories I'd heard, but maybe that's just because of my exhaust. The buzzer was not present on the original cluster but the mouting bracket was, I'm guessing it was 'removed'.
#16
Originally posted by Fennix_sr
no one knows what years they had this feature ? or was it an option ?
no one knows what years they had this feature ? or was it an option ?
However, I have a 12A with the over-rev buzzer that sounds at the same rpm.
I'm pretty sure that all Series 3 7's had this feature. I'm also pretty sure that either the '79 or the '80 didn't have it or both of them didn't have it. About Series 2....I have facts to back it up, either way.
#17
buzzer for a rhd model
My 79 rx7 has a buzzer hasnt gone off yet. HEHE... now that i switched it to a 5-speed tranny maybe ill get to hear it. You know what sux though is that when i go 55 mph it makes a chirping sound from the gauge cluster. I guess that is too fast in japan. I need to find out how to disconnect it.
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