The GSLSE system is easy, and for your street port im not even sure youd have to tune it. I bolted one on to a stockport 12a using the stock tune and ECU and drove off into the sunset, literally.

at WOT my stockport is about 12.4:1 and cruising it stays around 13.4:1 no matter what I do with it. Stock tune, light mods throughout. Gets almost 325 miles to a tank highway, 260 city driving. Wayyyyy better than my Dell that gets 200 to a tank no matter how im driving it. The Dell does make more power though, the GSLSE system is kinda restrictive with the tiny stock AFM.

Id recommend trying it though, it makes for a fun little FB.

 

No pump cam from holley is correct for the rotary. You need to start with a cam that has a lot of plastic to work with. I have made a few cams from brown but have found the easiest way is to take a pink cam #3 hole screw it to a white cam and grind it from a 30cc to 15-20cc. Easiest way to get good results over the phone.

 

Wankel=awesome

I have working reliable carbed rx7 that corners and passes emissions.
You ask people to take ur advice after you tell them you can't make a carb run properly.

You are a major chode and can't match my skill.

 

I make lots of carbs run properly. Anything branded "Holley" is typically a zinc casted vacuum leak out of the box. You are full of misinformation and nonsensical garbage. Like your advice to cut the .20 xferr slots larger than their already huge size in comparison to any other blade corrected circuit carb. But then again you probably have no idea what that means, so ill make it easy for you: If a 427 cubic inch nascar "cammer" doesnt need larger than .20, neither does a friggin 70 cubic inch rotary. If you tune your transition this way, youre doing it wrong. Proper booster size, emulsions staging, float drop and low speed air entry are how you tune the fuel supply when the blade is passing over those slots. Its not about making the hole bigger for flow, its about speeding the rate through the hole up for the desired effect. Cutting this slot ruins the circuit cutoffs where the booster signal should peak, and be taken over by the emulsions channels and venturi fed fuel.

Further, the only thing that makes our engines that black magic voodoo "different" is how they signal vacuum. Its not even hard to get around. Curve the boosters to suit the signal by tuning the air bleeds, and correcting fuel supply with the main jets. Fine tune the curves height at different RPM's with the emulsions well in sequence with float drop. Rule of thumb: Top of well=lower rpm or lowest fuel demand. Bottom of well: Highest RPM or highest fuel demand. Why do you think they tell you to run 6 psi in a holley carb when the needle and seat will hold up to 14 PSI? BECAUSE ITS A BLADE CORRECTED, FLOAT DROP EMULSIONS CIRCUIT CARB. The bowls dont stay full at all times, so holley actually PREDICTED and INTENDED float drop with their design. Which is another reason your tune is flawed. Running the bowls below the desired height results in parts of the emulsions well not even covered up, meaning you lose critical power band adjustability. The lower fuel level thing is a last resort circle track trick, kinda like the cutting of the xferr slot. It might have the desired effect, but its kinda like hammering a finishing nail in with a sledge; you figure out what that means.


The difference between you and I, is you have zero road course experience and I do. Holley carbs while simple and modular are not road racing carbs. The ones that are are highly specialized and fine metering devices(and nowhere is the brand name "holley" printed on them). And nothing about properly built carbs for this is cheap. Our cars mount the damn things sideways, which is a compromise to their design making the task of proper float levels and fuel slosh nigh impossible.

And if you want to tune how much fuel is used for the acc. pump, why not adjust it to not fully depress the diaphragm? Or perhaps change the channel restriction to a smaller size? Maybe try a smaller shooter? When the hell have you ever seen anyone chop up a pump cam? Those arent to determine acc. pump shot cc's, those are to change how quickly or late the shot comes in. The pink cam would start its shot almost immediately and use the full accel pump not 30% into a full stroke.

I think you just dont know what a "proper" running carb actually is. I'm trying to help the OP save money and actually meet his goals. You are sending him down a nightmarish tuning fiasco for a carb that isnt ideal at even atomizing fuel, let alone g-load track driving.

 

Sounds like u read the books and failed to comprehend any of it. Why do you hate holley the best choice in carbs and doubt someone who get positive results.

And u clearly don't understand cutting the trans slot. Last time I say it to you. The average carb tuner can get power from holley but not street ability. The problem is so simple I can't believe so many have missed it. Read any holley book it will tell you the trans slot has to be visable below the throttle blade. People get in trouble when they set the idle and the trans slot get covered. When driving down the road the trans slot is uncovered causing a pressure drop in the idle circuit. This is why you get a lean condition from idle to 3500 rpm. The simple fix is to set the idle first then extend the trans slot so you don't get the pressure drop off idle. The idle air bleed sits above trans slot that's why making it smaller will force more fuel in to the idle cuircut, so you can make the car run richer with more throttle or leaner with more throttle or hold a steady air/fuel. Once you under stand the system you can really do some precision tuning.

I have never seen anybody with a more street able holley car on a rotary. Even my plugs look good. And anybody who wants more out of there holley can give me a call..

Or they can call you buy a webber which is more expensive then efi or a edlebrock like you suggested which great for v8 guys who need something good out of the box because they don't have the skills to tune BUT IS GARBAGE ON ROTARY. Or they can buy the racing beat carb with its big airbleeds and small jets. The white cam it comes with is so aggressive the fuel pours out the squirter as you drive because of road vibration. Probably why they used such a small jet. The racing beat carb came with 50jets the stock version from holley came with 58jet. And mechanical secondary is the only way to go.

You are a major chode who admits to failing with the easiest carb to work with that give amazing results when tuned properly. Keep reading and maybe someday you will understand LOL GOOD LUCK SIR.

 

yeah but arguments aside, how much tuning does a holley need to make it work on a rotary engine (to be both street-able and track) it sounds like you need to hack a holley big time, and as a first time carburator tuner, I do not think to possess those skills unless there was a DIY image set. The nikki seems a bit more easier (cheaper to find and replace in case I create a hack job of the first carburetor) than a holley.

and as I googled holley, it might come with a trans slot, unless you are talking about making it bigger, or adjusting the size of the butterfly on the carb.


Thanks for both of your guys input (despite banter)

 

and honestly, this is one of the strongest points wankel brought up which makes me question holley.

how do you fix this problem?

 

All carbs have their limits in the corners, but their limits are much higher than you would expect. My carb is very stable and is so good I occasionally do some rain drifting and will power slide out of a turn without a problem. As for the carb being mounted sideways this isn't a issue because it needs to perform well accelerating, braking and cornering. When you use the jet extensions the fuel pick up is now in the center of the bowl so it doesn't matter which way it is facing.

As for the tuning, no it is not easy but it is possible. Even experienced people seem to struggle with rotary tuning. If you live near a good rotary tuner you should probably work with him. If you do decide to go carb go holley, affordable parts and me to help will get you the best results.

Using a 2 barrel carb is a terrible idea very expensive. When driving a four barrel you're only using two barrels around town, but because the total cfm is divided by 4 barrels the venturi signal is much stronger. I can also press in dbl step boosters for you that provide better response, and you will love the feel when the mechanical secondaries open.

If you're not going to buy holley go efi.
PM me your number. Ill would like to show you something.

 

Anyone here ever wonder why Sterling no longer builds carbs or gives advice? I don't.

 

I ran a RB Holley with a lot of luck on a large street port 12A.

The 465 cfm that RB uses is the way to go. The carb came out of an old tbird and is still made, it is a 4160. RB removed the power valve (Holley sells a kit) and installed #49 jets. That is basically it. I'm located at almost 7000 feet so I needed to re-jet primaries as well at the accelerator pump nozzle. I had my car tuned on a dyno which was a huge help but it can be done without it. If you want it perfect, it is best to have a wideband.

Instead of buying the carb from RB, Buy RB's intake, throttle cable bracket, and heat shield. Get everything else from Holley. Get a Holley 465 (PART #: 0-1848-1), center hung bowl kit (no problem with fuel starvation)(PART #: 34-2), electric choke conversion kit (PART #: 45-223), POWER VALVE PLUG & GASKET (PART #: 26-36), quickchange vacuum secondary housing cover (PART #: 20-59), and secondary diaphragm spring kit (PART #: 20-13). You can get it all at Summit Racing or Jegs.

It was a lot of work but in the end it would start up without a problem even in the dead of winter. It ran great, idled great, no sputtering, etc.

Holley was a great resource. They have great customer service. Tons of info on there site explaining tuning (nothing rotary specific) Holley Performance Technical Service Department

 

or just buy a 280 dollar edelbrock that doesnt have any of the holley probs in the first place and THEN spend your money having it tuned. Airflow is airflow, the "465" actually moves less air than the holley hp390, which has been proven time and again.

Edelbrocks have a slightly smaller primary than secondary, which makes sense and is familiar to us seeing as the OEM 4bbl's were designed that way. He wanted a "cheap" autox carb, and I will say it again, it is NOT. And I ran center hung bowls on every one of my carbs and they still had starvation issues in hard cornering. On the FB mine would see lean peaks in street driving on roundabouts and exit ramps.

Street ports actually make the low end signal to the booster slightly choppier and is worse for the holley. RB gets around this by doing custom air bleeds and BLOCKING OFF the top circuits of the emulsions well. I can post pics of their cobbled metering blocks and then go through a technical spreadsheet on the fuel curve they made and how the mods they made to the metering block helped them get there, but everyone else on this forum who as ever adjusted the idle mixture on a holley carb or put a couple thousand miles on one is a holley autocross pro, so you all know that anyways.

Right?

 

you know I'm sticking with the thunder series =)
but which $280 edelbrock carb do you recommend? honestly there are so many different kinds, I do not know which exact 500 CFM to get, other than it being a 4barrel, preferably electric choke and square bore.

either way, still a few weeks till I have enough money for the set up =)

 

Oh no!
You're actually going to buy a carb ****=awesome recommends. Why?
This guy did his homework and failed the test. 13sec bridge port with NOS LOL!
Can't handle city driving yet he built it with all his wisdom and knowledge for the race track LOL

He said float level was too low exposing the first emulsion hole on my meter block and failed to realize this hole is uncovered as soon as you hit the gas lol.
Wankel=awesome As vacuum increases fuel level in the emulsion well decreases similar to dropping the bowl fuel level.

Wankel=awesome "u've been doing this for ever squeezed out a whopping 13sec out of a bridge port with NOS that cut out around every corner on the way home from the track because you don't know how to adjust a holley float bowl LoL

You are ready to tell someone to buy an edelbrock not because you"be built am awesome car with one but because you think it will be a good carb.
No wait you said "even the edelbrock I linked wont be great but you will be able to live with it ona day to day basis" LOL
I can also explain why .49 jet will only work in a racingbeat carb, but I would never build a carb that way.

Rotaryawesome =chode


I sent a couple of you my number I'm having trouble posting my vids so I will send them to one of you. You guys should really call me and take advice from someone who get powerful results from years of experience. I've been doing this sense 2000.

 

just buy a weber. I use my RB Holley as a paper weight! lol

 

can you pm me all the info ?

 

When racing beat closed the top port on the metering block it boosted signal to the main jets, this is why they are jetted with .50 instead of .58. With the emulsion hole blocked no air is mixed with the fuel before leaving the booster.

As the rpms and vacuum signal increase the the fuel level in the emulsion well drops until the lower hole is uncovered allowing air to mix with the fuel. This would cause a lean condition with mechanical secondaries but the racing beat version works with the vacuum secondaries to balance this out. Its a poor way to tune a carb.

 

Mine is (are) also a paper weight(s).

Hilarious you would say I "failed the test" to make one a proper auto-x carb, as I've never seen one hang with webers or even stock nikkis on lap times at mid ohio.

It would seem everyone failed that test, including Racing Beat.

Which would mean you claim to be the only "auto-x" holley/12a combo for under 2k$.

Either way, just like the people who have wasted years of their lives testing and tuning and working the flow bench and charts and metering curves etc. before me, I give up on this community. Every piece of knowledge or experience I put here is shot down by a ricer wannabe race car driver or self proclaimed "pro" with no real leg to stand on.

Im deploying soon, and I have no time to argue with kids about mixing fuel with air.

 

I had the Racing Beat 550 and intake for the 4 port 13B in the mid eighties. The only problem I had was the oil being dumped into the float bowl and after time it would clog the jets. What I did was drill two holes in the intake plate and slide two brass 1 inch hollow rods in and I ran the oil lines into them. The oil would drip into each rotor below the carb. Never had another problem.

That car hauled *** back in the day. Loved that car!

 

Pretty irrelevant info in regards to this thread or discussion.

 

No it isn't and nobody asked you for your two bit opinion.

 

Pretty irrelevant info in regards to this thread or discussion.

 

Now, by clicking quote to answer this question (which isnt what the thread or discussion is about at this point) I can answer it with your reply:

There, now it isnt a random post about a joyful memory of a properly working "550 RB carb" that they never built for a 12a (note thread title) in the first place.

Glad I could help!

 

ugh this guy is a ***.
My rx7 holley is great and you hate it. Hi 14's from a tired old s4 motor that has to push 17' rims which killing my 1/4 time. 2nd gear goes to 85mph. And I don't have any of the problems you describe while driving in the city or making sharp turns. Even when the rear is sliding out my engine never skips a beat.

Then I'm kind enough to tell you how I did it and you tell me its all wrong, WOW what a ***.

 

Arcolith You need to contact me.

Do you think you can buy the stock computer, wiring harness, sensors, EFI Fuel pump, new fuel lines, Fuel pressure regulator, manifold adapter and anything else I might of forgotten for $350 bucks. That's LOL

 

Apparently if Wankel can't do it it's Not possible and no one on the face of the earth can because he said so. What an arrogant ******* internet bully. Just because you are old doesn't mean you know ****. Ghost is trying to be polite and helpful and you are just plain being a dick with personal attacks. If you told me a can't do something that I already did I wouldn't respect or believe another word outta your mouth. Obviously you are in the military and think that you can boss everyone around. Try using some etiquette and you might actually earn some respect vs demanding it.