High Torque Starters? Who Builds, Makes, or Sells Them???
10-20-08, 02:15 AM
#1
High Torque Starters? Who Builds, Makes, or Sells Them???
Guys i was wondering if there was anybody in the rotary community that rebuilds, or builds and sells high torque starters for the 12a and 13b gsl-se motors...I need a starter that turns faster then my used one, and turns faster then a new stock one from Autozone, or Kragen...Any leads as to who or whom may provide these services would be great thanks guys...
teddy
teddy
10-20-08, 10:20 AM
#3
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I thought rotaries didn't need very much torque to start them? I know I could easily spin my engine by the flywheel with my hands, and it has good compression.
10-20-08, 11:27 AM
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
you dont want a high torque starter,those are for high comp motors. you want a starter that will spin the motor over faster. that would be a second gen n/a starter
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10-20-08, 11:43 AM
#8
I get 250+rpm on my stock FB starter - you just need better battery cables! When I did my compression test I was getting 300rpm on the readout on the mazda tester.
Copper core cables made of a thicker gauge than stock will get your starter spinning like crazy, which is awesome because it can help a tired old engine with borderline compression get started more easily.
Jon
Edit: I should qualify my statement of "stock" starter. It's not the one that came with the car 24yrs ago, but it's what PartSource gave me when I asked for a stock replacement for my starter. IIRC mine's made by Bosch and is just listed in their computer as the starter that goes on my car.
Copper core cables made of a thicker gauge than stock will get your starter spinning like crazy, which is awesome because it can help a tired old engine with borderline compression get started more easily.
Jon
Edit: I should qualify my statement of "stock" starter. It's not the one that came with the car 24yrs ago, but it's what PartSource gave me when I asked for a stock replacement for my starter. IIRC mine's made by Bosch and is just listed in their computer as the starter that goes on my car.
10-20-08, 11:46 AM
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
any 84-85 rx7 has a 225mm flywheel so the starter will swap right in. 12A or 13B
10-20-08, 11:51 AM
#11
Just found some information out from mazda trix...
FLYWHEELS: The actual horsepower of the engine does not change related to the weight of the flywheel. However, to increase the engine RPM, and accelerate the car, all rotating weight (as well as the entire car) must be speeded up. This requires power, and the heavier the part, the more power needed to speed it up. The less power needed to speed up the flywheel (and rotors, clutch, driveshaft, wheels, tires, car, etc.) the more power available to speed up everything else. The question we are asked frequently - "How much more horsepower will my engine have with a light flywheel" - is not the right question, because the answer is NONE. What you will have is more available horsepower to accelerate the car and yourself down the road.
The trade-offs are as follows: the heavier the flywheel, the smoother the idle, the easier the starting is from a stop, and the smoother the cruising/slight throttle changes are. BUT - the slower the acceleration is. The lighter the flywheel is, the harder it is to get the car moving from a stop (just requires a somewhat higher RPM before the clutch is let out - which wears the clutch faster), depending on porting, intake, and exhaust, the idle will be somewhat rougher, and some "jerkiness" may be noticed while cruising. BUT - you will be able to accelerate faster. This is true to a much lesser degree on fuel injected engines than on carbureted engines.
The above reasons are why there are basically three types of flywheels offered. The stock units are fine for most "normal" driving, as done by the vast majority of drivers. The light steel ones are great for "spirited" street driving, middle range autocross classes, some drag racing (heavier is sometimes better), and just general high-performance applications that will still be driven on the street sometimes. The lighter aluminum flywheels are recommended for all road race applications and fuel injected street driven cars where the highest performance is desired.
NOTE: Excluding the TURBO, all the different flywheels and clutches, from 74 through 92, are basically divided by 215mm clutch (74-82), and 225mm (83-92), then by rear counterweight needed for the engine. We mix and match these all the time. This means if you want to put the larger diameter clutch assembly on a pre-83 application, just let us know - it is no problem. You just need to remember what diameter you have when you next purchase clutch parts.
FLYWHEELS: The actual horsepower of the engine does not change related to the weight of the flywheel. However, to increase the engine RPM, and accelerate the car, all rotating weight (as well as the entire car) must be speeded up. This requires power, and the heavier the part, the more power needed to speed it up. The less power needed to speed up the flywheel (and rotors, clutch, driveshaft, wheels, tires, car, etc.) the more power available to speed up everything else. The question we are asked frequently - "How much more horsepower will my engine have with a light flywheel" - is not the right question, because the answer is NONE. What you will have is more available horsepower to accelerate the car and yourself down the road.
The trade-offs are as follows: the heavier the flywheel, the smoother the idle, the easier the starting is from a stop, and the smoother the cruising/slight throttle changes are. BUT - the slower the acceleration is. The lighter the flywheel is, the harder it is to get the car moving from a stop (just requires a somewhat higher RPM before the clutch is let out - which wears the clutch faster), depending on porting, intake, and exhaust, the idle will be somewhat rougher, and some "jerkiness" may be noticed while cruising. BUT - you will be able to accelerate faster. This is true to a much lesser degree on fuel injected engines than on carbureted engines.
The above reasons are why there are basically three types of flywheels offered. The stock units are fine for most "normal" driving, as done by the vast majority of drivers. The light steel ones are great for "spirited" street driving, middle range autocross classes, some drag racing (heavier is sometimes better), and just general high-performance applications that will still be driven on the street sometimes. The lighter aluminum flywheels are recommended for all road race applications and fuel injected street driven cars where the highest performance is desired.
NOTE: Excluding the TURBO, all the different flywheels and clutches, from 74 through 92, are basically divided by 215mm clutch (74-82), and 225mm (83-92), then by rear counterweight needed for the engine. We mix and match these all the time. This means if you want to put the larger diameter clutch assembly on a pre-83 application, just let us know - it is no problem. You just need to remember what diameter you have when you next purchase clutch parts.
Last edited by teddyrx2; 10-20-08 at 11:56 AM.
10-20-08, 11:53 AM
#12
How about the turbo II starter will that work as well? my damn motor is fresh brand new has a total of 5-6 min. idle time on it all together...the starter cranks slow and the batter is new...im using thick copper wire running from the battery to the positive side of the starter...my guess is that the starter just may be worn out and shot...
10-20-08, 11:56 AM
#14
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How about the turbo II starter will that work as well? my damn motor is fresh brand new has a total of 5-6 min. idle time on it all together...the starter cranks slow and the batter is new...im using thick copper wire running from the battery to the positive side of the starter...my guess is that the starter just may be worn out and shot...
10-20-08, 12:05 PM
#16
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I'd say the problem is either with poor connections, or worn starter.
Dirty or loose connections on the battery cables will produce slow cranking, even on a new starter.
Dirty or loose connections on the battery cables will produce slow cranking, even on a new starter.
10-20-08, 02:02 PM
#19
Lives on the Forum
Rather than installing a different starter, then finding out that you still have issues, I would recommend that you fix the issue that is the root of the problem once and for all. Do it once, do it right.... 
10-20-08, 03:06 PM
#23
Lives on the Forum
Must be for later models or something. Our cars have no clutch sensor or nuetral sensors that I know of. Maybe the automatic does, don't know.
All this kit does is feed juice straight from the battery. Our cars already get that. Spend your money on some new high quality battery cables instead. All these other ideas are just ways that might let you live with the problem, but it doesn't fix the problem....
All this kit does is feed juice straight from the battery. Our cars already get that. Spend your money on some new high quality battery cables instead. All these other ideas are just ways that might let you live with the problem, but it doesn't fix the problem....
