high rpm engine problem
#27
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well, she don't die she keeps going but gets rough; a lot of vibration. ps, sorry about the bad spelling my girlfrend and i have ben taking turns at typing and we have been drinking tonight, but don't worry i would not drive drunk ok or work on the car drunk.
#29
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#42
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If the exhaust system is in contact with the chassis at any point (metal to metal), then you will have a lot of vibration. The exhaust is supposed to be isolated from the chassis through rubber hangers to avoid these vibration issues.
The last time I heard of symptoms like yours, I suggested this and the owner found that the exhaust pipe had been welded to the tranny... Weird, I know. But if it touches metal to metal anywhere but the engine (which is itself isolated from the frame), well, then you'll feel it. I went through this with a 280zx, which is how I found all this out. Good luck...
The last time I heard of symptoms like yours, I suggested this and the owner found that the exhaust pipe had been welded to the tranny... Weird, I know. But if it touches metal to metal anywhere but the engine (which is itself isolated from the frame), well, then you'll feel it. I went through this with a 280zx, which is how I found all this out. Good luck...
#47
Don't overlook ignition system problems. Higher engine rpms demand strong and accurate spark. Are you using the stock coils?...could they have been wired backwards?....the coils will fire if wired backwards but you will run out of spark at higher rpms due to running on the smaller primary winding in the coils. Make sure the polarity is correct. Often if you have fuel starvation the power drops off sharply but smoothly and not as much vibration and breaking up like your symptoms indicate. If you had a lack of spark advance, same result....smooth but no power. An ignition scope would help a great deal so you could look at coil output and polarity, plug wire resistance, etc. If you have a ohmmeter, check your plug wires. No more than about 10,000 ohms per foot.