I tried to search for this problem but no kudos so here i go! I have a 1985 Gsl-se with small mods. I noticed this past week i started having warm start up problems. well i left it parked for a few days due to me moving and then i get in it and take it down the road its like something is holding it back and you can feel it kind of bucking while its wide open throttle! I changed both of the ignitors with good ones and re timed the distributor and crank! it pulls alot better now but it will not start correctly for the life of me. i have to give it alot of gas until its fully warm and sometimes then it will still cut off on me right when it starts! What could this be?

Thanks

 

But it runs ok once you get it fully warmed up? No hesitation?

Did you try swapping in the ignitors you had before, to see if it goes back to how it was? What do you mean when you say you retimed the crank? All the wiring pugged back in correctly? Capacitor and all that? Vacuum hoses back on the dizzy? Sounds like it's running wrong mixture on warmup.

 

it runs ok when fully warmed up now. no big hesitation like before. the vaccum hoses where capped off. i checked the timing to make sure everything was top dead center minus the pistons lol. i havent swapped the old ones back on there yet cause im limited with space to work on it now that i moved. i just want to find out why i have to try and baby it to keep it warm after its been ran and cut off and then back on.

 

Well, you don't need much space to swap ignitors. Can be done in any parking lot in like 5 minutes. But I don't think it's your ignotors. It uses different fuel map during warmup and it also has fast idle cam to keep the revs high. When you first start the car cold it should idle at 2K-2.5K RPM, and as it warms up idle will go down. So maybe it's not reading the engine temp right and using wrong mixture. Also, did you pull the dizzy to swap the ignitors? Make sure you didn't skip a tooth when installing it back in.

 

one of the first things to test when having cold start issues is the water thermo sensor. its located on the back of the water pump. it senses coolant temperature and sends the signal to the ecu for the accelerated warmup.

the ignitors are working fine in your car, leave them alone. if the trailing ignitor fails, your tach wil not work. messing with the timing is not necessary. the engine will not randomly need the timing reset. when you say " i checked the timing to make sure everything was top dead center minus the pistons lol", it makes me feel that you will need to assure the timing is set to factory specs to assure proper starting and engine performance. the only pistons on this car are in the four brake calipers..

with a hesitation, first check and replace the fuel filter, inspect the plugs (probably a good time to replace them anyways. NGK BR8EQ-14), wires, cap, and rotor. next, i would also remove both injectors and send them out to be cleaned and flow tested. a good place for this is www.witchhunter.com.

having vacuum lines capped off is not really a good thing for a stock SE unless ALL of the emissions components are removed. the stock EGI system relies on vacuum and uses a total of four solenoids, two on the engine and two on the firewall, wheich send vacuum to needed areas.

 

Could be the throttle body linkage needs cleaned and lubed. Also check the TPS, thermo wax and clean out the BAC.