help with strut tops!
08-16-07, 12:17 AM
#1
domokun!
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help with strut tops!
anyone have pictures of there strut tops installed correctly. i think mine are backwards causing the springs not to sit correctly because every time i turn the wheels all the way the springs would move causing it to pull left or right. it also makes a huge clunking noise.
thanks guys,
josh.
thanks guys,
josh.
08-16-07, 03:03 AM
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R U 1 2?
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on the top of the strut mount, there should be an arrow (triangle, whatever...) somewhere, kinda sticking out of the plastic. If I am correct (this is how i just installed mine) the arrow should point at the bolt closest to the windshield and closest to the engine bay. If you cant see the arrow, try to clean a bit of scunge away, it should be there idf they are the factory ones
08-16-07, 07:15 AM
#4
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I recently installed new Racing Beat lowering springs and Tokico shocks. I looked for the markings indicated above and couldn't find them, so I just marked the bolts so I could put them back in he same hole. There is a rubber thing that the spring sits in and it has a depression that matches the top of the spring. This probably isn't any help with your problem, though...
- David
- David
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08-16-07, 05:56 PM
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Actually, the spring is supposed to turn with the strut. If the bearing is bad, or the shims/spacers/washers are not in there correctly, that can cause the springs to bind.
08-16-07, 10:48 PM
#14
I lowered my protege 2 inches, and got it aligned. I also run 500$ tires on them, so you bet I aligned them
08-17-07, 06:08 AM
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The strut tops are off-centered.
When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.
The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.
Good luck,
Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.
The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.
Good luck,
Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
08-17-07, 01:06 PM
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domokun!
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The strut tops are off-centered.
When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.
The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.
Good luck,
Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
When an alignment is done on an SA or FB ( as I have done for years), the four bolts that secure the top of the strut to the chassis are removed, and the strut itself is lowered, and rotated to adjust camber and caster.
The strut top should be closer to one of those four bolts than the other three- there is no need to find a marker, because the offset is clear once you know what you're looking at.
Good luck,
Brian Beachy
Owner of a silver 1980 SA w/ 130k mi. (since 8k original miles!)
and what do you mean closer to one bolt?
08-17-07, 02:09 PM
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As for leafs in the front, look under early 50's and older cars/trucks. Very common to see leafs up front. Heck, some pickups didn't lose the front leafs till the early 60's. '68 dodge 1/2 ton pickups still had the leaf frontend......
