What are the correct steps for starting a 83 engine that was parked since 1999 with no storage prep done.

I just bought this car milage 64k miles 5 spd.

The past owner parked it after the clutch failed. I hope it is only the master clutch seals or slave seals. I plan to do both sets of seals.

The past owner had some one try to start it several months ago but was unable to start.

I tried last week only to find gas leaking out of the top of the carb between the primarys. Pulled fuse for fuel pump, then cranked the engine stumbled or turned over faster for a few seconds. sounded as if it wanted to start.

Today the oil & filter were changed, black and smelled more like gas. cranked engine with coil wire pulled and fuel pump fuse pulled. I was hoping to crank enough for the oil light to go off but battery ran down to quick.

Is the carb kit from the dealers worth the extra $$, $112.00? compared to $ 48.00 at Napa. CDN.

The car is from California. Interior is in rough shape, sun dried ect... little rust.

One other question, no decals on rear to say what model it is. On the fire wall the model plate # is FB331. What model is it?

Stu
Tks!!

 

I'm gonna wager it's a GS or S... Check the rear brakes... Drum rules out GSL... If it's disc, it's defenately GSL, or has been upgraded by a previous owner. Other than that, check for options like power windows and such... more options leans it towards GS, less leans towards Base (S)...

On starting, firstly, I'd put some Marvel's Mystery Oil or ATF in the spark plug holes...

As it's been sitting with no treatment, some rust may have built up inside. cranking will grind away at your precious housings and seals...

Actually, I'd do the ATF/MMO treatment. (Search for the proceedure. The proceedure typically takes a day or longer to allow the oil to soak into the engine properly.)

I'd also drain that nasty gas, and probably change the fuel filter.

Keep a means of extended cranking around. (Jump start box, Plug in car starter, Extra car battery with jumper cables...)

Other than that, verify that you have spark and that the carb is in decent shape.

 

That's the first thing that I should have done a while back. Definitely use ATF or MMO!

 

Rear breaks are drum. A/C, P/M, P/B, cruise, sun roof seat are cloth and vinyl.

Will try the ATF.

Tks
Stu

 

Tks for the tips. CTC has it on sale for $2.93 ea. "discontinued"
MMO in the block through the spark plugs holes. Plugs are all wet with gas dripping from the lower ones. Engine turns over easly by hand. I found the wires leading to the plugs, not the same order top to bottom between front rotor and the aft rotor.
Would it be leading at the top plug and trailing at the bottom?
Carb kit is to arrive on monday.
The spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ14 this model is not in the Haynes madual.
Are these the correct std plugs?

tks
Stu

 

Leading is on the bottom. The housings are marked L and T. The dist. cap should be marked L1, T1, L2, L3.

I can't recall the proper spark plug #'s. Are 14's FC plugs? That's a fairly popular swap.

 

Plugs are the correct ones BR8EQ-14 from NGK.

Leading = Lower
Trailing = Top

Rebuilding the carb, helped mine run much better afterb I bought it.

You could always pull/push start it as well, I don't imagine any harm if the plugs are lined up fine and you can turn the engine by hand.