help i think only 1 rotors goin
06-02-06, 10:06 PM
#26
Have you tried tightening the bolt there? That part is the water pump housing, btw. If tightening doesn't help, it probably needs a new gasket. Just hope it isn't leaking due to overheating and warpage. When you et the fan out of the way, check the weep hole on the waterpump for leakage. If it's not leaking, do not remove it from the housing, that saves the gasket.
Iirc, there are 5 bolts that hold the housing on the front cover, the 2 bolts that do not go through/next to, the cooling ports have a shim washer to make up for the gasket thickness the other 3 bolts go through. Where your leak is, it could be because someone forgot/lost the shim washers. If you don't have them, they are 0.020" thick. Yes, I actually measured them a while back in case I lost mine.
Iirc, there are 5 bolts that hold the housing on the front cover, the 2 bolts that do not go through/next to, the cooling ports have a shim washer to make up for the gasket thickness the other 3 bolts go through. Where your leak is, it could be because someone forgot/lost the shim washers. If you don't have them, they are 0.020" thick. Yes, I actually measured them a while back in case I lost mine.
06-02-06, 10:10 PM
#27
Originally Posted by trochoid
Have you tried tightening the bolt there? That part is the water pump housing, btw. If tightening doesn't help, it probably needs a new gasket. Just hope it isn't leaking due to overheating and warpage. When you et the fan out of the way, check the weep hole on the waterpump for leakage. If it's not leaking, do not remove it from the housing, that saves the gasket.
Iirc, there are 5 bolts that hold the housing on the front cover, the 2 bolts that do not go through/next to, the cooling ports have a shim washer to make up for the gasket thickness the other 3 bolts go through. Where your leak is, it could be because someone forgot/lost the shim washers. If you don't have them, they are 0.020" thick. Yes, I actually measured them a while back in case I lost mine.
Iirc, there are 5 bolts that hold the housing on the front cover, the 2 bolts that do not go through/next to, the cooling ports have a shim washer to make up for the gasket thickness the other 3 bolts go through. Where your leak is, it could be because someone forgot/lost the shim washers. If you don't have them, they are 0.020" thick. Yes, I actually measured them a while back in case I lost mine.
weep hole ?
whats Iirc
ill check the bolts
06-02-06, 10:22 PM
#28
I thought I told you iirc in a PM, didn't I, 'if I recall correctly'. All water pumps have a little hole in the casting, right behind the pulley mount. When coolant starts weeping out of the hole, it indicates the bearing/seal in the pump is going/gone.
06-03-06, 02:04 AM
#30
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As far as the gasket goes, you can also forego putting a new gasket on, using liquid gasket instead. If you do this, you do not use a shim. A good friend's FC and one he just rebuilt recently are both running this way with no problems whatsoever.
06-03-06, 08:18 PM
#32
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I also read it somewhere on a post. Apparently is more common than I thought. The shim is only there for the gasket, so if you don't use the gasket, you don't use the shim. It's similar to leaving out a thermostat housing gasket and using RTV instead. Just make sure it is given time to set up before putting in water, and check for leaks.
I'm heading over to the guy's house tonight, so I will ask him how long it's been since he built his motor, and get back to you later on that.
I'm heading over to the guy's house tonight, so I will ask him how long it's been since he built his motor, and get back to you later on that.
06-03-06, 09:46 PM
#35
thanks
any sugestions when i take the beehive off
any seals need replacing when the fmoc goes on?
i dont like the beehive its to much of a cluter and its hard to remove hydrolics and the oil sender so im chuckin it out
i also have the main engine bay harness half out i wanna limit the amount of wire plups and wire for looks did you reroute your wire harness scott?
im gonna try an idea everyone wants sleepy eyes so last night when i was takin a lights out i pulled the motor a lil back to the strut
the lid was half down looked cool so how dose the motor work dose it have a stop and start point ?
it will do full rotations if its turned
any sugestions when i take the beehive off
any seals need replacing when the fmoc goes on?
i dont like the beehive its to much of a cluter and its hard to remove hydrolics and the oil sender so im chuckin it out
i also have the main engine bay harness half out i wanna limit the amount of wire plups and wire for looks did you reroute your wire harness scott?
im gonna try an idea everyone wants sleepy eyes so last night when i was takin a lights out i pulled the motor a lil back to the strut
the lid was half down looked cool so how dose the motor work dose it have a stop and start point ?
it will do full rotations if its turned
06-04-06, 12:24 AM
#36
When you mount the new oil filter pedistal, you will need 2 new o-rings. For the wiring, I sat down with my FSM and unpinned every wire I didn't need from the main connector.
If you want sleepy eyes, pull the fuse and hand crank them to the position you want.
If you want sleepy eyes, pull the fuse and hand crank them to the position you want.
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