Sorry for the huge title but I need HELP! I lost the keys to my 83, just the day after buying it. After freaking out initially I read (on here) that the locks for the doors and hatch are all the same. So I removed the hatch lock and had a key made for it... worked in the doors ok and NOT in the ignition.

I did take the back end out of the ignition switch and was able to start the car. But I cannot turn the wheel. If I could turn the wheel I could drive it to the lock shop. Is there a way to disable the locking feature without destorying the shaft?

The other option I see is removing the steering column but this appears to be a HUGE pain with the motor in.

The last option is to call out a lock guy... sure to cost me $100+.

The options that aren't options are buying a new lock cylinder for the ignition (new ignition switch is $200+ from the dealer) or buying the set of locks/keys from Mazdatrix or a similar supplier ($300+).

Help this is my daily beater!!

Brian

 

Hate to say it man, but the best way to not wreck your steering column is to call out the lock guy.

 

Are you a AAA member? They can send a guy out to where you are, and he'll make a key for you (no extra charge). Just tell them you lost the keys and they'll come out.

If you're not a member, then become a member, and then request the service. It's cheaper than any other way you mention, and then you'll get free service (like towing, etc.) for a year, on top of your free keys!

 

That's an idea. I might have to see how much membership is. Either way sounds like no easy solution

 

If there is a mazda dealer near you, I think that they can make you new keys based off of your vin #. That is just what I've heard though. Don't know that for a fact. Anyone else hear this?

 

I had the Toyota dealership cut me a new key with the VIN from my truck. Cost about 7$ but works like new!

 

you can take the whole ignitiono switch down and that disables the lock I think. I did it to mine once, when I broke my switch, I dropped it so I could move it into my garage.

 

Okay, all the locks on the 1st gens use the same key (doors, glove box, hatch, ignition, bins)

However. The door locks and hatch locks are a joke. I can open my hatch for my new '85 GSL-SE with the keys to my old -SE, my wife's base model, and even the keys from a co-woker's old 323.
The doors are only VERY slightly better (my old -SE key won't work there).

However, none of those will tirn my ignition, only MY key does that.

My advice would be to get a key cut for the ignition...

 

To turn the wheels, just take the whole ignition lock assembly off the steering column. It's not that difficult. Take off the plastic housings and there are two bolts holding the igniton lock around the column. They probably have non-standard heads so you have to get some vice grips on them or else use a chisel and hammer to unscrew them. You probably will have to lower the column to get at the bolts. IIRC there is a bracket under the dash that holds the column up with just a couple bolts. Remove the bolts holding that bracket, and the column will drop down enough to get at the ignition lock bolts. I had to do this a couple times, once when my garage closed locking the keys up in their office, and I didn't have a spare key.

 

If you drop the column to remove the steering lock & key assembly the bolts holding it on are shear bolts. Once tightened the top shears off to make it difficult for bad guys to steal your ride. I use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel & grind slots in each bolt. It then comes apart with a flat scewdriver & can be taken to a locksmith. (not to be read by bad guys)

 

I thought about the cutting of slots in the top but I *might* try to use vice grips first. Thanks guys!!! I will be trying this this afternoon and I will report back what happens.

By the way, my car is an 83, and the parts guy tried to get a key code but the car was too old. I think he really did try so I wonder what the cutoff is (I read somewhere on here if the car hasn't been serviced at a Mazda dealer in 10+ years, the VIN or key code is purged from the system.)

 

If the new key which you had made has sharp angled ridges or teeth.. file them down a bit til they are rounded off then try it in your ignition again

 

Well I was thinking of doing that exact thing but the nubs are VERY shallow where it was ground.. I'm pretty sure that very little is needed to open a hatch/door lock and that the ignition (of course) requires something more precise (personally I'd rather make it hard to get in my car in the first place...!) But if all else fails I'll try that. The worst I could do is ruin a key.

Brian

 

Now that I think about it I did this 3 times and the vise grips only worked once. The other 2 times I used a small chisel, and used the vise grips to hold the chisel in position. Then take a hammer to tap on the sides of the bolt top, working it around counterclockwise to get it started unscrewing. It is a little tedious but not that bad.

I didn't have a dremel tool handy at the times, so I didn't try cutting slots for a screwdriver. That might be a good alternative, depending how tightly the bolts are torqued.

 

Hey guys,

Thanks for ALL the tips. I used a wood chisel (ruined it.. but that was all I had available in this town) and it was great at turning those stupid bolts. Now if the lock shop hadn't jerked me around all weekend on getting the lock done (still don't have it done)... but was able to start the car with a screwdriver anyways

So just for the forum, a chisel and hammer works great.