Hell Yeah!!
#52
man I am glad I moved to florida, I remember those cold winter days up there. after the blizards of the late 70s I said anuff an got my *** to florida. I do remeber going to the car at night and having to heat the lock and key with a lighter to get them to work. if I still lived up north I would probly have to add a few months on still.
#53
Setzep, you sound proud man, and so you should! - Great job! You gotta post some SHOW pics too though, nice internals, no lets see what ya look like so we can keep away from ya at the lights !! 2.5 years. . . "phew" I bet your glad thats nearly over. . .
#55
thanks again guys
Mills- Midway as in msp/stpaul midway? I plan on having the car drivable by teh 11th, big cruise down here in lakeville.
kuhlrx7- I remember having to de ice my locks a few years back. Ahh the joys of living up north.
Bayce- whay do you mean by SHOW pic's?
D3rELiC- lol, thats the plan
Mills- Midway as in msp/stpaul midway? I plan on having the car drivable by teh 11th, big cruise down here in lakeville.
kuhlrx7- I remember having to de ice my locks a few years back. Ahh the joys of living up north.
Bayce- whay do you mean by SHOW pic's?
D3rELiC- lol, thats the plan
#56
Just wanted to add more praise. Congratulations! Your car looks beautiful, externally and internally. (the motor helps a little too).
Iotus, not to say "your are wrong" or anything, but, just because a car isnt covered in dress-up parts. doesnt mean it doesnt look good. I think fb/sa are a special breed of car that looks best stock, or near stock. Setzeps car is a great example. Because from a distance it looks like a well cared for classic sports car. If i saw it driving down the street i'de think. "damn, that things cherry." But deep inside its really a beast of a rotary machine.
Okay, im done with my rant now.
Iotus, not to say "your are wrong" or anything, but, just because a car isnt covered in dress-up parts. doesnt mean it doesnt look good. I think fb/sa are a special breed of car that looks best stock, or near stock. Setzeps car is a great example. Because from a distance it looks like a well cared for classic sports car. If i saw it driving down the street i'de think. "damn, that things cherry." But deep inside its really a beast of a rotary machine.
Okay, im done with my rant now.
#57
I'm just doing a cut and paste from the other forum so a couple of you might have already seen this.
Did a little more work to it last night. Put the air filter behind the pass headlight. The air temps were getting up to 115 deg F while idling in the driveway with the air filter right on the compressor housing!! I used a 45deg elbow from a local diesel repair shop and a 4.75" long piece of 4" diameter aluminum to relocate it. We'll see how that helps. Because the radiator overflow bottle was sitting where the air filter now is I had to move it to the drivers side. Made a heat shield for in between the turbo/manifold and the lower intake manifold out of 20ga stainless, got a 23x19 sheet of it for $6 The shield itself is 9x13"s.
Did a little more work to it last night. Put the air filter behind the pass headlight. The air temps were getting up to 115 deg F while idling in the driveway with the air filter right on the compressor housing!! I used a 45deg elbow from a local diesel repair shop and a 4.75" long piece of 4" diameter aluminum to relocate it. We'll see how that helps. Because the radiator overflow bottle was sitting where the air filter now is I had to move it to the drivers side. Made a heat shield for in between the turbo/manifold and the lower intake manifold out of 20ga stainless, got a 23x19 sheet of it for $6 The shield itself is 9x13"s.
#61
OK dude go find some ricers and burn their asses!!
Heheh. Better yet, go find some ferraris and burn THEIR asses!
PS, for some reason everyone got the impression that i dont like your rex. Maybe i came off that way, but quite the contrary. The only dif btwn your car and mine is rims and lights. I totally agree w/ keeping it stock looking. I personally am not, although i'm not going to be doig any more exteriro mods apart from maybe going lightweight 'glass.
I love your car man, 1) a beautiful fb 2) insanely powerful fb. i ALWAYS wave to rotary drivers, i'm just as enthused about a stock rex as i am about a custom turbo rex.
Heheh. Better yet, go find some ferraris and burn THEIR asses!
PS, for some reason everyone got the impression that i dont like your rex. Maybe i came off that way, but quite the contrary. The only dif btwn your car and mine is rims and lights. I totally agree w/ keeping it stock looking. I personally am not, although i'm not going to be doig any more exteriro mods apart from maybe going lightweight 'glass.
I love your car man, 1) a beautiful fb 2) insanely powerful fb. i ALWAYS wave to rotary drivers, i'm just as enthused about a stock rex as i am about a custom turbo rex.
#62
iotus, we believe you were not 3rd gen owners here. on another note guys i just got my front rotors(crossdrilled and slotted) with hawk pads front and rear and the total bill was $349.oo from mariah motorsports. i thought it was resonable and they were very helpful with my order. i put a pic of them on later. Setzep, do you need another set of tires yet? hahaha
#63
dole2000- what part of the twin cities are you from?
No problem ioTus, we understand you are a ricer j/k
No need for tires yet The only time it's seen boost is a free rev to 7k, the BOV poped open and blew the towel off my fender I've only driven it to the end of my circle and back ~100'. Not going into the boost till I get a wide band meter. I've spent way too much time on this sucker to go blowing it up right off the bat! I did do a little more tuning though today. Put the rear end up on jackstands, pulled the e-brake and ran it in 3rd gear up to 2500rpm. Could only do that for a 1/2 min or so though, didn't want the rear brakes to get too hot.
No problem ioTus, we understand you are a ricer j/k
No need for tires yet The only time it's seen boost is a free rev to 7k, the BOV poped open and blew the towel off my fender I've only driven it to the end of my circle and back ~100'. Not going into the boost till I get a wide band meter. I've spent way too much time on this sucker to go blowing it up right off the bat! I did do a little more tuning though today. Put the rear end up on jackstands, pulled the e-brake and ran it in 3rd gear up to 2500rpm. Could only do that for a 1/2 min or so though, didn't want the rear brakes to get too hot.
#64
procrastination engineer
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,270
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From: up to my ass in alligators
Yeah, the St Paul/MSP midway. Some guys on the FC3S forum are trying to get as many Rx-7 owners to show up there as possible at around 7:30. I was going to drive my 'vert, (not wanting to be the only FB) but if you can make it, I will probably reconsider and drive the '85
#65
setzep
take your time with the tuning. I have gone through 4 motors in the past year. Two went bad becasue I was in a hurry to go to the track. The motors I rebuild are from pick-n-pull so I can afford to go through a few, big learning curve.
This is what I am useing for tuning, A four wire honda O2 sensor hooked to a O-scoop. When I dynoed the car a few months ago I compared my voltage to the wide band monitor and .92-.94 volts on the four wire sensor was in the 11-1 air fuel range. All factory O2 sensors are not created equal but very close. Trying to tune with a EGT gauge is crazy sometimes. My EGT number are around the 1450-1525F range in fourth gear. Sensor is 1 inch after the turbo on the top side of the down pipe.
How much boost are you planning to run? What would you say in the power differance between the turboII and RE motors, stock port with the same bolt on's?? If I am pushing 450-475rwhp with the turboII motor, what would be the increase in HP if I go with a newer type motor. Sorry for all the questions...
chuck
take your time with the tuning. I have gone through 4 motors in the past year. Two went bad becasue I was in a hurry to go to the track. The motors I rebuild are from pick-n-pull so I can afford to go through a few, big learning curve.
This is what I am useing for tuning, A four wire honda O2 sensor hooked to a O-scoop. When I dynoed the car a few months ago I compared my voltage to the wide band monitor and .92-.94 volts on the four wire sensor was in the 11-1 air fuel range. All factory O2 sensors are not created equal but very close. Trying to tune with a EGT gauge is crazy sometimes. My EGT number are around the 1450-1525F range in fourth gear. Sensor is 1 inch after the turbo on the top side of the down pipe.
How much boost are you planning to run? What would you say in the power differance between the turboII and RE motors, stock port with the same bolt on's?? If I am pushing 450-475rwhp with the turboII motor, what would be the increase in HP if I go with a newer type motor. Sorry for all the questions...
chuck
#66
Mills- I'll see if I can make it but no promises. I don't plan on doing any long distance driving till I have a WB meter and it's tuned.
Chuck- sounds like you've been having some fun with your car! 4 engines would be enough to make me want to pull my hair out!
I only plan on running spring pressure at first (7.25psi) till I trust myself to put the 13psi spring in and a boost controller then 15 wil be about it. Plan making this a street car so I don't see any reason to run any more than 15.
not sure if the RE engine would give you much more HP or not, you seem to be doing pretty good with the T2 one! the RE does have those good intake ports though but also has the ugly exhaust sleeves.
Chuck- sounds like you've been having some fun with your car! 4 engines would be enough to make me want to pull my hair out!
I only plan on running spring pressure at first (7.25psi) till I trust myself to put the 13psi spring in and a boost controller then 15 wil be about it. Plan making this a street car so I don't see any reason to run any more than 15.
not sure if the RE engine would give you much more HP or not, you seem to be doing pretty good with the T2 one! the RE does have those good intake ports though but also has the ugly exhaust sleeves.
#69
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,444
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
god about ******* time, im glad it runs Now after you drive it a few times and compair what you spent and what you could have not spend and done the v8 swap you will be sad like me
LOL joking of course, i got new toys now, I just bought a boat and a truck to pull the ******... I guess I finally finish the car some time this winter, i got some work to do, causes high 11's suck *** after you spent 14k
LOL joking of course, i got new toys now, I just bought a boat and a truck to pull the ******... I guess I finally finish the car some time this winter, i got some work to do, causes high 11's suck *** after you spent 14k
#70
hornbm- the acv plate is cut out to the shape of the acv. You can't see it though because of the heat shield covering it.
mills- we'll see, hope to go the local cruise on the 11th. I'll see how reliable it is after that night.
Mike- I hope you're wrong!
what kind of truck did you get?
mills- we'll see, hope to go the local cruise on the 11th. I'll see how reliable it is after that night.
Mike- I hope you're wrong!
what kind of truck did you get?
#71
Originally posted by setzep
I only plan on running spring pressure at first (7.25psi) till I trust myself to put the 13psi spring in and a boost controller then 15 wil be about it. Plan making this a street car so I don't see any reason to run any more than 15.
I only plan on running spring pressure at first (7.25psi) till I trust myself to put the 13psi spring in and a boost controller then 15 wil be about it. Plan making this a street car so I don't see any reason to run any more than 15.
Now, you will change springs ONLY if you DON'T run a boost controller.
#72
Well if I plan on running 15psi I would think the 13psi spring would yield better responce time. But I may keep the 7.25 in all the time anyway because I'd like to have the lower limit be 7.25 instead of 13.
#73
Originally posted by setzep
Well if I plan on running 15psi I would think the 13psi spring would yield better responce time. But I may keep the 7.25 in all the time anyway because I'd like to have the lower limit be 7.25 instead of 13.
Well if I plan on running 15psi I would think the 13psi spring would yield better responce time. But I may keep the 7.25 in all the time anyway because I'd like to have the lower limit be 7.25 instead of 13.
1) OFF - Just the Wastegate Spring.
2) ON - Low Boost Setting, anything you want from Wastgate spring +
3) ON - High Boost Setting, anything you want from Wastgate spring + (preferably higher than low)
The Profec has a third small dial, called "Balance" which basically controls the response time. If you want boost to build slowly (like for Auto-X), or All at once, (like a rocketship).
#74
I can't believe I missed this thread. Anyways, clean setup and car. I just finished mine, GSL-SE, stock wheels, Eibachs, and turbo. A real sleeper except for the exhaust is loud. Anyways, anybody know where to find a 7 lb spring for a old Rotomaster wastegate?
p.s.
You coming to Sevenstock?
p.s.
You coming to Sevenstock?
#75
Good job Cam. It's also good to see all of the others on this forum getting their turbo FB's up an running..
BTW, it took me 3-4 years to get mine up and running.
All interested in a turbo-fb should also check-out the following:
http://www.turbofb.com
join the mailing list.. I know some of you are already on it. It would be really cool to get all of the info from the sticky on this forum to that site.
-Bern
BTW, it took me 3-4 years to get mine up and running.
All interested in a turbo-fb should also check-out the following:
http://www.turbofb.com
join the mailing list.. I know some of you are already on it. It would be really cool to get all of the info from the sticky on this forum to that site.
-Bern