Ok so heres the story. The car was running great, always starts up right away, even in the colder weather here and has no problems at idle or hesitation at take off.

My gf has been taking the car to work sometimes, and she fired it up like normal, then realizing she forgot something inside, shut the car off. This is a no no.

So i figured the engine was flooded and needed to be unflooded.
I removed the blue blade clip and the spark plugs, blew all the stuff out, cleaned the plugs. At the same time I tested all plug leads and all plugs for spark and proper firing. Everything is good there. No heres where I run into the problem. I put everything back together. Turn is over for about 10 seconds, the thing aint starting. I repulled the plugs and found that there is quite a bit of fuel getting in. Im not sure if this is normal, but is seems like the engine is choking from too much fuel. It wants to fire but doesnt fully run.

I dont have any ideas as to why it would do this besides the needle or float being stuck open in the carb. And I also notice now, that after repeating the process of removing the plugs and such that my oil is getting very polluted with gas.

I am thinking of rebuilding the carb tommorow because Ive exhausted all other possibilities to my knowledge. I dont have the history of the car, but the guy i baught it off of to my knowledge took good care of the car. When i inspected it, all the fluids in the diff, tranny and engine were new. And the previous owner before him had it in the garage every night.

What else could be causing this mass amount of fuel in the chambers. I dont think it would be blown because it ran immaculate until she turned it off while it was still in choke mode.

My specs are 85 12A Rx7, with what looks like the Nikki 2 stage 4 barrel.

Any help would be great as its our only vehicle right now. Thanks! Also if anyone can help me out over skype would be much appreciate as its easier to speak then to type.

 

I'd shoot some choke cleaner down the carb and fire it up. Blip the throttle till she's warm, and see how it goes. Carb rebuild is always a good idea if you think it's been forever or never done.

 

Use a tow strap and pull it with another car (20-30 mph), and pop the clutch while in second gear. This will get the engine to spin over at 1000-2000 rpm vs 250 rpm on battery. It works ever time for me with a flooded engine.

 

I would pull it and dump the clutch because im almost positive that would work lol. But its an automatic. I baught ihe automatic because I figured it wouldnt be beaten on its entire life and it came with all the stuff to swap it over i just havent done it yet.

This is really starting to bug me now, it wants to fire but just wont, and If i take the carb apart im going to need the rebuild kit no matter what. Its only $38 but i just got laid off.

If I take the plugs out and blow all the fuel out of the holes, should I squirt oil into the rotor chamber to help build compression? When I turn the car over for about 10-15 seconds it build up oil pressure on the gauge.

 

Nevermind...re-read the post and saw it is a carbed 12A.

 

Yea, im going to be purchasing the Rebuilt Kit for it, i have a PDF file of the Carb Training Guide so hopefully things go well at that end. What are the common issues wish the Nikki Carbs? Mine is dumping in tonns of fuel.

 

Make certain you have the plug wires back in the right positions after you pulled them; swapping the plug wires front-to-rear will do exactly what you're seeing. You don't want to ask how I know.

Chamber one is front.

 

Yea, this happened before I even touched the Plug Wires. I have double checked time and time again that they are right :P I learnt the hard way too, 5.0L F150, had my wires all funky, running on 3 cylinders.

 

Stuck float/needle is probably the most common flood cause; look in the inspection windows on the carb bowls and see if it is one, or both, bowls that are over-full.

Often a stuck float can be cleared by rapping sharply on the top of the fuel-inlet "banjo bolts" on top the carb with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle.

 

Im going to try this tommorow, I appreciate the input. If thats the case then I guess I should rebuild the carb as I have the money. And you say I should be able to check this through the inspection window?

Where should the fuel level be? After or before trying to start it?

 

Fuel level in the bowls should be at mid-window at all times when pump is running. There's a small index line in the casting at each side of the window.

Front one's easy to see; rear one will require an inspection mirror and a flashlight.

 

Ok so both windows were full almost to the top. I am also noticing that my engine Oil is getting very polluted with fuel, and it feels like the engine has no compression once the fuel gets like this. Is it common that the Oil will become this polluted if the carb is dumping in mass amounts of fuel? Or is it possible that something else is worn out?

 

Yes, that's a common problem with repeated flooding. You want to make sure you keep the oil changed if you have that problem as it can lead to rapid engine wear if the oil loses viscosity.

Your problem could be with the carb (old floats, leaky needles, etc), or it could also be with your fuel return line being blocked, which can cause fuel pressure to overwhelm the floats, especially if they are old.

 

Thanks a lot, is there a carb rebuild kit that is preferred? I found this kit, but I havent heard of the brand. GP Sorensen/Carburetor Kit (96-555) | AutoZone.com

 

GP Sorensen is a good brand. I think that's the same kit I used the last couple times.

 

How would you go about checking to see if the fuel return line is blocked?

 

Unhook the return from the carb and let the carb return drain into a container. If it
makes the bowl levels go to normal then bobs your uncle.

 

Cool, I will give that a try this weekend.