1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Guru Racing Floating Hub kit

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Old 03-15-04 | 12:26 PM
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zyounker's Avatar
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root
 
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Guru Racing Floating Hub kit

Anyone have any experiances with these?

http://www.gurumotorsports.com/products/hubs.htm



Says it fixes the stock rear end and is used in up to 600hp cars? and is a good option for 1st gens?


I plan on emailing them, but wondered if anyone has any experiances on here.


I figured with that and the Guru LSD i would have a nice rear end without having the weight of the ford 8.8 or 9"



Thanks,
-Zach
Old 03-15-04 | 02:22 PM
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how much is this kit?
Old 03-15-04 | 02:27 PM
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Man thats cool. I want one. Wonder how much it is
Old 03-15-04 | 02:41 PM
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I've heard only good things about it Guru.
The hub kit and diff are both on my list.

Last edited by smnc; 03-15-04 at 02:47 PM.
Old 03-15-04 | 02:52 PM
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root
 
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Hub & Axle Kit $2,500.00 AUD


And i was looking to see if anyone here has ran it, and how much it improves the rear end. It is kinda pricey though as i can get a ford 8.8" or 9" in my car for ~$500.
Old 03-15-04 | 03:39 PM
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darn tootin' nice set of hardware
Old 03-15-04 | 03:40 PM
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Or Ford 7.5"...

Not to say it's pointless, as there's all sorts of racing classes where you have to run the stock type of driveline... and various other benefits. It's just not the most cost-effective way to do things in the world...
Old 03-15-04 | 05:10 PM
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How much torque is your motor putting out Zach?
Old 03-16-04 | 09:19 AM
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I'd think that would be an advantage for cars with high sideways loading. No worrying about flexing the axles or sliding the wheel bearings inboard.
Old 03-16-04 | 09:42 AM
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root
 
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Originally posted by DriveFast7
How much torque is your motor putting out Zach?

Well, currently i am fabricating a Twin GT28R turbo setup for my 13BT.

But i will be doing a few kits on this car.


but it will eventually have ~400+RWHP. THe GT28Rs will be over 400RWHP.

Last edited by zyounker; 03-16-04 at 09:45 AM.
Old 03-16-04 | 08:55 PM
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Originally posted by peejay
I'd think that would be an advantage for cars with high sideways loading. No worrying about flexing the axles or sliding the wheel bearings inboard.
Exactly! Something else it allows you to do is run some negative camber in the rear -- up to 1.5 deg I'm told by some roundy round guys.

Speaking of roundy round -- if you're interested in a cheap floater setup, you should look in the circle track / NASCAR / sprint car arena. They build floaters for cheap because they do a lot of 'em. Speedway engineering has a nice assortment of options: www.1speedway.com
Old 03-18-04 | 05:36 PM
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Plus you get to use the Wide 5 hubs and therefore Wide 5 wheels. Trickness!
Old 03-18-04 | 08:27 PM
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Originally posted by peejay
Plus you get to use the Wide 5 hubs and therefore Wide 5 wheels. Trickness!
Can you explain what you mean? I don't quite understand...
Old 03-19-04 | 06:21 PM
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Hardcore circle trackers use a bolt pattern called "Wide 5". I think it is 5 on 10.5" or something of that nature. BIG. The wheel is just a rim with a little ring on the inside for the lug holes. The hub is a big huge star, and you can get them in any material you could want. The hubs also generally are drilled to fit racing rotors (bolt on with 8 or 10 bolts) as well.

Rear hub:

Old 03-20-04 | 02:21 PM
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Wow, okay I understand now. Will 10" wide tires even fit an FB?
Old 03-20-04 | 06:22 PM
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Not 10" wide... 10.5" BOLT PATTERN. Stock bolt pattern on a GSL-SE, for example, is 4.5" diameter.
Old 03-20-04 | 08:18 PM
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Originally posted by peejay
Not 10" wide... 10.5" BOLT PATTERN. Stock bolt pattern on a GSL-SE, for example, is 4.5" diameter.
Awesome, I'm a complete moron.

A LEARNING, complete moron though...hehe. Thanks for the information.
Old 03-20-04 | 10:13 PM
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That bolt pattern is crazy. I see no need for it though. Unless you are constantly pulling 2+ lateral g's in the corners and putting more than 600hp to the ground, you can get away with a standard 5x4.5" pattern.

don't mind me, I just like to point out some of my opinions sometimes.
Old 03-20-04 | 10:51 PM
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Didn't say it was necessary for the street... but it's just plain badass, no?

Imagine the looks on the faces of the guys down at the corner tire shop when you bring them in and ask for them to be balanced...
Old 03-20-04 | 10:59 PM
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That would be hilarious though. No there is no point for the street, and I was just pointing out that they are really only cost effective if you are one very serious racer.
Old 03-21-04 | 12:10 PM
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Originally posted by 85rotarypower
That would be hilarious though. No there is no point for the street, and I was just pointing out that they are really only cost effective if you are one very serious racer.
This is what I thought, until I checked the prices for Real Racing Wheels at Hoerr Racing Products:

"Normal" Lug Pattern 15X7 RR Wheel = 12.7lbs / $193 ea
"Normal" RX-7 hub & rotor (doesn't incl. bearings) = $70
Aluminum Rotor Hat = $60
Total "Normal" Wheel + Hub = $323

Wide 5 15X7 RR Wheel = 7.8lbs / $125 ea.
Wide 5 hub (incl. bearings) = $190
Total Wide 5 Wheel + Hub = $315

So let's say you're a weekend club racer, and the rules allow wide 5 hubs. You need to replace your front rotors (which means the hubs too on an FB), and you're considering new wheels and maybe a big brake upgrade. Suddenly the Wide 5 setup is looking pretty good. The only downside I see is a limited wheel selection and adapting the wide 5 hubs to RX-7 struts (assuming you want to do the fronts, too).
Old 03-21-04 | 08:18 PM
  #22  
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Fabricate new struts and knuckles. If you're that into it.

- Pete (Adapt? Redesign!)
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