1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

guesstimated paint job???

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Old 01-29-03 | 03:15 PM
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guesstimated paint job???

anyone have a guesstimate as how much it would be to get a first gen RX painted? just a basic paint job.

also behind both wheel wells the body is rusted through, any ideas how much that might cost to get fixed?? i know i have put no great details but it is hard to describe. also, there is rusting along the bottom edges on both sides. i just need a ball park guess. i am just curious how much it would run me and my dad to get it fixed up. thanx for your thoughts
Old 01-29-03 | 03:33 PM
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just go and get a quote from a local shop. they will tell you ~how much, plus they need to look at dents, scratches and dings to determine how much body work it needed/you want.

also, i would stay away from macco. im sure other people will agree, but ive heard REALLY bad things about their paint, plus a guy around here with a gsl-se has a macco job from the previous owner, and the paint is bubbling up and coming off that car, its REALLY shitty.

thast pretty much what ive heard about most of their jobs.. maybe its a local thing.. just giving you a heads up.

the purpose of not getting flamed!!! i have NEVER had a macco job, just from what i hear/ have seen on another guy's car, so if you have had a good experience, dont flame me
Old 01-29-03 | 03:42 PM
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asdf

The Maaco comments are pretty much true. The reason they can charge so little is they skimp on the prep time. The paint they use is fine, but if they don't take the time to tape well, sand properly, etc it'll look bad.

To get around this, you can prep the car yourself. Or you can slip the manager an extra $100 or so on the side (usually).

I don't know how much the body work will cost. Maybe as much as $1000, depending on how much metal they have to replace (can they patch it with fiberglass/bondo, or do they need to cut the panel and make a new replacement).
Old 01-29-03 | 03:56 PM
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Or avoid getting the low-end Maaco job.

Maaco did a fantastic job on mine, and since i got to drive it between prep and paint, I got to see the prepwork. Now, since each Maaco is different, I'd recommend trying to look at jobs they've done, ask them questions, and if you don't like the answer - move on.

I got the second to highest priced service they offer, and the car is beautiful.
Old 01-29-03 | 04:14 PM
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For rust you might just want to handle it yourself. If done fast sloppily (like quickie paint shops) the rust will just come back. I got a black and decker 4.5" angle grinder and knot wire wheel attachment and it goes thru rust like a hot knife thru butter. You wanna grind or sand it down, then spray with a rust neutralizer (like Naval Jelley sold at auto parts stores), then I grind off rust neutralizer residue, primer and go from there.

You MUST have your existing paint sanded before paint is applied. Sanding gives a sticker surface for paint to adhere to. Even Earl Scheib will sand your car. Never get the cheapest paint job they offer, you'll regret it in a few years.

I would strongly reccomend getting at least one coat of clear applied on top of the paint. It seals the paint and puts a protective layer between paint and the outside world.... tree sap, bird droppings, etc that will eat or discolor your paint.

Find a local paint shop whether a chain or not, and get references. Try to check out work in progress, work just completed, and work done a few years ago if possible.

Prep work is 80% of a great paint job!

-bp-
Old 01-29-03 | 04:36 PM
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the rust is pretty bad, i am 15 and dont trust myself to grind it off etc. hehe. prolly a foot squared area behind each wheel well and from the very bottom up to about 1 inch above the bottom on both sides. yah i would deffinately get prolly 2 clear coats. but my dad could just use the money he wouldve used to buy me a car to fix up the RX. my dad has clients (hes a lawyer) **no joke rule iz in effect** so he normally goes to that guys shop. ill have to look around and at the work he does on my bros hood. (he got backed into) thanx for all the advice. Ben
Old 01-29-03 | 05:34 PM
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A decent new paint job will run $2000-$2500. This will get you a good urethane paint. Some shops won't even do rust through repair so ask first.
Old 01-29-03 | 05:42 PM
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Paint jobs can cost from $1000 and up, mine's going to cost 4k, due to the rust that must be cut out & metal replaced. Also, mine's got the widebody kit & some fiberglass work has to be done, too.
On another car, a body shop cut out & replaced both wheel wells for $100.
Old 01-29-03 | 06:17 PM
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****!!

so about 3.5 -5 K??? damn thats alot. guess i better get a job. Ben
Old 01-29-03 | 06:21 PM
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when it comes to paint jobs, 9 times out of 10 you get what you pay for
Old 01-29-03 | 06:45 PM
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Absolutely you get what you pay for! It's not just paint application you are paying for (which is EXTREMELY important) but paint material. Some paints can look good for a year or two but quickly fade/oxydize in the sun.

Last edited by purple82; 01-29-03 at 06:47 PM.
Old 01-29-03 | 09:54 PM
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I actually got a quote from a guy who said he'd do it for 2K, keep in mind I got big time rust in the rear section under the mariah spoiler. He said he'd sandblast & paint, be finished in less than 2 weeks.
The 4K estimate came from a guy who said it would take at least 2 months. He had the most enthusiasm for his job that I've seen in years, he was obviously very excited at the challenge! He said with sandblasting, the rust would eventually come back, it's best to put in new metal in the really bad spots.
The car will be in 'show' condition when he's thru, he showed me creases and cracks to fix I couldn't even see until he pointed them out.
I don't mind paying more for a great job, as I'm planning on keeping this car forever.
Stay tuned for pics in April!
Old 01-29-03 | 09:56 PM
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I painted my old S-10 with those cheap $1.29 SPRAY CANS of spray paint from Canadian Tire, meant for painting Wagons, etc.... it turned out sooo nice... I was amazed... of course, I spent lots of time on sanding, etc the rust spots, scratches, nicks, etc. I went down to 800 grit paper, and the truck had a glass-like finish. I've since sold it, but have seen it many times around, as the girl who bought it is my mom's friend, and the paint STILL looks like a mirror ... best $25 in paint I've ever spent... the cans of primer were a little more though - $3.29 each (Canuck Bucks of course)

Lol

Jeff
Old 01-29-03 | 10:22 PM
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Nice Pic

hehe, i like it Jeff. what part of TN is that payne?? my dad would never go for it but i could dream. maybe sumone like that here (nope ) haha. o well thanx for all the advice, i will prolly try my lukk at convincing my father. then there is always that "job" thing. pff
Old 01-29-03 | 10:53 PM
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East Tennessee, Knoxville area.
This guy works only by word of mouth, used to be body shop manager of an oldsmobile dealership. Has one employee he's had for 10 years. He's so busy I've waited nearly 2 months even to get my car in.
He doesn't do anything but the finest work, he said every car that leaves his shop is his personal signature.
I was really impressed by that. I wouldn't pay 4K if I wasn't going to keep the car, so I want it the best I can get it.

Gotta admit, I like the spray can idea! It'd look ***** if I did it, though.
Old 01-29-03 | 11:06 PM
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Maaco-The work I saw was atrocious. They had painted OVER the windshield wiper jets.

My first SE (minimal body work) was $1200. The second (lots of bodywork) cost $1600. They turned out beautiful. If you know someone, it helps. My cousin has a body shop and I give him a lot of business. In return, he gives me quality work at a great price.

Keep looking.

jeryj
Old 01-29-03 | 11:12 PM
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my car is in the shop getting the wheel wells and rocker panels replaced, 800$, that includes sandblasting and undercoating the underside. im guessing about 300-400 of that is the wheel wells
Old 01-29-03 | 11:29 PM
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well, it is startin to sound like less than my previously concluded amount. the more experiences u guyz post the better guesstimate we have, thanx to everyone.
Old 01-29-03 | 11:56 PM
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Originally posted by pratch

Or avoid getting the low-end Maaco job.

Maaco did a fantastic job on mine...

I got the second to highest priced service they offer, and the car is beautiful.
I got the $750 job, 5 year guarantee.... too bad the car was totalled well before that... here's some pics of it from an old thread which I always like to view after a few beers...

An interesting 1stgen adventure...
Old 01-30-03 | 01:15 AM
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here's some more up close shots of the MAACO job after some time in the sun after the wreck....





Old 01-30-03 | 09:55 AM
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Not to knock your paint job but...see the red under the blue, that's what separates a $750 job from a $2000 job, preparation.
Old 01-30-03 | 12:38 PM
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Ahhh, but if you go to the link, you'll see it was sporting a 1982 front bumper on 1980 fenders...NO shop would be able to paint that area without removing that bumper....to be honest, I pulled everything off that car I could, so they wouldn't have to mask anything...
Old 01-30-03 | 01:32 PM
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The painters at Maaco get a flat rate per job, so the least amount of prep they can get away with results in a higher profit for them. The paint itself is good quality, and the guys spray so many cars, they're bound to get pretty good at it, but like many have said, it's the prep work which determines the final result. I've seen good results from people doing their own prep work and then just having Maaco squirt the paint. I have a friend who paints cars for a local dealership who is going to paint my car this spring for about $750, but then my car is extremely straight and has no rust issues.
Old 01-30-03 | 02:02 PM
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with maaco, it really depends on the local shop. my local maaco was great. fast, cut me a good deal on an odd job(just wanted half the car painted).

iirc, mantis's maaco stole his stereo.
Old 01-30-03 | 02:24 PM
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This was a full restoration paint job. Bumpers, molding, lights, door handles, locks everything came off.



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