as with any rx7 i buy, the bastard wont start when i get it.

GSLSE

it sat for 6mo. before i got it because the fuel pump stopped running. So i traced the problem to the fuel pump relay and bypassed it and ran power from the "engine" fuse in the fuse block as its the only one i thought would still be on while cranking.

i also replaced the fuel filter because we thought that was the problem. But it didnt change anything. we put 5gallons of fresh gas in to dilute down the few galleons of old crap but its seems like the car isnt getting any fuel. its starts and runs off of ether, but dies right after...im thinking it may just be so stupidly flooded that its is still stalling out after the ether is used up. but im not sure. The car is so simple, im running out of ideas quick!

im going to see what the fuel pressure is at the rail to see if the fuel is at least getting there or not. any more ideas i can try?

 

air / fuel / spark. I think you are headed in the right direction.

 

1. Make sure the fuel pump is running. Without bypassing the relay, you can turn the key to 'ON' and then push open the flapper door in the AFM. You should hear the fuel pump running. The other option is there a test connector for the fuel pump. It is that 2 terminal connector near the AFM with the rubber boot. If you jumper those terminals, the fuel pump should run whenever the key is ON.

2. Once you are getting fuel to the rail, but if it still isn't starting, check on the trailing ignition. The SE needs the trailing to fire the injectors.

Check those out and report back.

 

well the fuel pump runs immediately when the key is turned because its temp. wired to a ign. hot fuse ("engine" in the under dash).

but the ignitor on the dist. for the trailing is dead. only the leading works....so...is the dead ignitor which is not giving me any trailing spark the reason that the injectors arent also working?

damn me to hell...

if i use a MSD 6a can i get around having to use the leading ignitor? then put the good igntior onto the trailing side?

 

That's your problem. You aren't getting fuel because the injectors aren't firing. Here is what you do to get it going:

- unplug the trailing ignitor (black box on dizzy closest to the alt)

- remove blue connector on trailing coil - and plug it into leading coil -

Now, the tach and the injection will run off your leading. It should fire up now. Replace the trailing ignitor when you get a chance and return connections to normal.

Hope that helps.

Kent

 

ill give it a try. is there a non expensive permanent way to get around the ignitors?

 

I thought you said that you had a running GSL-SE? No spring meet for you now?

 

we thought is was only the fuel pump. but it looks like just a minor issue.. oh there will be spring meet. isnt that in april anyhow?

 

Good luck. Hope it get you going. Used ignitors are pretty cheap and pretty easy to replace. Most guys carry a couple spares with them just in case. You can also convert over to the cheap and available GM HEI ignitors. There should be a thread that lists the part number for the ones you need. They are common and only cost like $20 or so each new.

You could also do like you were saying and use either 1 or 2 MSD boxes.

There are several options. I would just stock up on some spare stock ignitors. It may be a different story when supplies of used ignitors dry up, though.

 

that and you live near cleveland right? if im stilling getting stuck, what are you doing this weekend?

 

for whatever act of god, i have a spare MSD box. that write in the FAQ is the method for essentially replace the ignitor correct?

i havent had to be so question happy in a while but FBs are WAY different than FCs

 

Absolutely nothing is going down for me. Want me to ask Pete if he's up for a trip?

My 7 isn't running right now, but I bet he might be up for something.

EDIT: My 7 is running, but I don't have tires and I need to change my fluids.

 

yeah that might be good. get the professional opinion on the car from you guys.

GSLSE #2 should be getting here in about two weeks. just need a few random parts.

 

Okay cool, I'll ask him later tonight when I get home from school. If not him I'll see if any of the other local guys are up for helping out.

 

we have more local guys? where the hell do they hide?

 

I might as well be local to cleveland. not that long a drive.

 

They're everywhere, but you only want to know half of them. I got lucky, I only know cool guys that bastardize their cars. (Jason with your piston conversion!! j/k j/k)

 

UPDATE!

okay replace the fuel pump because the pump was in fact FUBAR. then i switched the blue connector onto the leading coil. Does the white connector need to stay connected? the car runs. but its misses over 4k and occasionally whenever if feels like it. im going to replace the leading plugs today with new ones. and do some minor tune ups.

 

Do you mean the ignitor connector? I would leave the trailing ignitor unplugged because if the trailing starts working, both ignitors will be triggering the tach/injectors. The trailing igniotr is the black box on the distributor, closest to the alt.

For the plugs, make sure to get NGK. Many times the 1st gen plugs are not carried in stock like the 2nd gens are.

Good luck. Sounds like you are making good progress.

 

on the leading coil there is a white connector and a well now a blue connector. i attach the blue one to the prong ontop and left the white one on there.

 

Yeah, leave that one on there.