well, i started digging into my project yesterday and today and i found some stuff that is making me a bit irritated and not want to do the project (my -se is now stripped COMPLETLEY in the interior...)

well ive got the GSL all ready for the 13b, but i inspected the wiring on both cars and there are some things i found.. first off, on the gsl-se there are 3 little control modules for some **** that the wiring goes and integrates into the main wiring harness on the dirvers side under the dash, they little "moduels" are the circut opening relay, control unit, and the vaccum pressure sensor, now on the gsl the plugs for all these things arent there, so that means i have to rip the gsl apart and COMPLETLEY swap all the wiring harnesses (I HATE WIRING!) my question is, is there any way around those "moduels" or are they absolutley necessary to operate the EGI? if i have to swap out the complete harnesses and rip apart my mint unmolested gsl interior im just gonna bite the horn and carbuerate the gsl-se engine

 

Just go carb, that way you can easily reverse the process without a bunch of problems and rewiring.

 

ya you would have to take your wiring harness and ecu out of your GSL-SE and place that in the GSL ... as the Rotor13B said ... go carbed ... alot easier to work with and cheaper, and not to mention makes your engine bay look all that cleaner.

 

well, im doin the same, you have basically 3 options....

a) swap both over (like im doing) pain in the *** but you get to keep the FI
b) get a aftermarket ecu, that should eliminate some wiring that you have to do but costs $$$
c) go carb

basicaly how much money you have and effort you want to put into it determines it

<l><l>

 

It would be worth the time and effort to keep the EFI if you have the means to do so. The responce on a EFI setup is far better than going carb. Most carbs are set for etheir being flat on the gas or off. Lets face it, if your going to carb the 13b why even bother swapping the 12a. The 12a is a powerplant, street port the 12a and put a Holly double pumper on it. You can Beat the hell out of a 12a. Do a search on what people are putting to the ground with a 12a. The Holly will allow for better tunablity and more power than the old Nikki that is on there. Save the SE motor for when you get a SE. Wait and Preserve your peice of history by buying a SE body for that motor.

Just my two centz,
Vern

 

Let's see, His 12a is blown and he already has 13B engine to drop in. It's either spend a little bit now and have the satifaction of being able to drive the car or spend alot on a rebuild for the 12a. Plus, he doesn't want to tear into a mint interior and ruin things. When he gets the wiring harness all figured out and gets motivated to put it in, He still can sell a carb setup for purchase price if he bought it used.

 

Go carb!

 

well turns out the engine will operate without the vaccume pressure sensor and the control unit, (car ran just like it always has. unplugging the relay wouldnt let the car run, so that relay leads me to believe that it is just the main source of power for the ECU, so im going to run a 12 volt lead ignition switched to that relay with an inline fuse and ground the ecu to the chassis, it should work, if not then ill find a way to make it work.

well, the swap begins right now! im HOPING to be done tonight if not tomorrow morning, ill keep everyone posted!

 

well ive got the GSL all ready for the 13b, but i inspected the wiring on both cars and there are some things i found.. first off, on the gsl-se there are 3 little control modules for some **** that the wiring goes and integrates into the main wiring harness on the dirvers side under the dash, they little "moduels" are the circut opening relay, control unit, and the vaccum pressure sensor, now on the gsl the plugs for all these things arent there, so that means i have to rip the gsl apart and COMPLETLEY swap all the wiring harnesses (I HATE WIRING!) my question is, is there any way around those "moduels" or are they absolutley necessary to operate the EGI? if i have to swap out the complete harnesses and rip apart my mint unmolested gsl interior im just gonna bite the horn and carbuerate the gsl-se engine

 

Hi

I was just reading this and i was going to get a 85' GSL SE 13b engine and bolt it into my 84' GSL...did someone take them out???? or am i gunna have the same problem??

 

ya i kind botched my first reply haha

 

Your gonna run into the same problem unless your just going to use a carb with it.

 

so what i'll have to do is get the wiring from a GSL SE???( cause i wanna stick with EFI ) and connect it to the GSL some how??? i read all the posts but im still kinda confused can some one explain it in a bit more detail for me sorry for the trouble but i just wanna do this right

Thanks alot,
Sam

 

Sam, let me start by saying welcome to the forum.
I admire the moxy that you guys have and the drive. However in my humble opinion when first starting out with a 7. Start slow and learn. Jumping into a Se efi
swap to a gsl is not a easy matter. Even for us guys that have been working on them for awhile. To do it right, meaning factory it takes alot of research, planning, and alot of experience.
Not trying to discourage you guys. Just trying to prevent some of you from getting over your heads and taking the fun out of owning the car in the beginning.
I recommend that you do some mods first like the most important on a 12a. The exhaust system then go from there. Get to know the car, how it drives and performs. Do one small mod then record your progress.
Putting the motor in, using the approriate mounts are the straight forward things.
Putting in a complete engine harness is another story.
Common things on the swap. 1) Distributors and coils are the same, ignition wires are the same.
2). See above.
If you are going to go thru the extensive work to make it EFI. I recommmend at
least doing it with a s4 intake/ecu system. The stock se injection system is very quirky in it's self. Yes it has great injectors with alot of flow but the t/body and intake system icluding the afm is very small.
In comparison the s4 t/body, afm and induction system is better engineered for
flow. Plus if you go the s4 you can use the dis coils and crankangle sensor/dist.
It bolts right in place of the stock first gen dist. Only difference is no cap/rotor.
Ignitors are built into the coil packs, one coil per plug.
With the s4 computer you can run t2 injectors on the secondaries, fabricate a larger CAI system. Get a ported t/body. Still use the se fuel pump for delivery.
Use the se header system, it will bolt right on to the s4 motor.
You will have a more reliable injection system that will get better mpg, produce more hp and be fun to drive. On the 86-871/2 models you can even use the se injectors for the secondaries.
The point is that if you are going to go thru all that work to make it EFI wouldn't you want to make the most available HP? Only getting 34hp over your 12a
with a stock se injection with no header system. A 12a with a rb header system will get you somewhere around 123hp. A se with a header system will get you around 155hp.
A S4 injection system with a header system will get you around 170hp.
The biggest advantage over the SE system is that you have more options to make hp. IE; t2 secondary injectors, having the computer reprogrammed will net you
another 14-18hp. And again it is a better flowing system and more reliable.
Or you can keep your 12a, put on the RB system, mikuni 44phh and have 142hp.
Driveability will still be good when you keep your foot out of it and throttle response is crisp and responsive. Or run the same setup, carb on the 13b and make about 175-180hp depending on jetting.
Lots of choices but alot of thinking should be done before deciding what is best for you.
Again i am not discouraging you guys from trying this, just giving you options with advantages/disadvantages. Sorry this is so long. Now i have to find 64mgb and convince him it would be in his best interest to sell me his camden supercharger,
LOL. Good luck to all. rx7doctor

 

too long of a read, rx7doctor. what's the summary?


j/k

 

Summary is as follows. If attempting please log all new cuss words in book for further reference.
Make sure you have custom fabricated aspirin the size of hockey pucks.
Get 75lb heavy bag fro frustration release therapy.
Buy rogaine in large quantities for hair replacement.
Most important during process. Get really really hannered during process and ask
yourself, "What the hell did i get myself into, and how much is it going to cost to fly rx7doctor out to fix it",lol. rx7doctor

 

You guys!

The GSL-SE swap is super easy.

1. Get the engine, harness, and ECU COMPLETE!!!!!! from an -se.
2. Go to the 1st gen FAQ, find the wiring diagrams for both engines. Download.
3. Remove old engine, and the wiring harness that goes to the 12a ECU
4. Install new engine and harness.
5. Break out wiring diagrams, see where connectors go. Wire in any connectors you don't have.

This stuff ain't rocket science. Auto wiring is one of 3 things: 12v, ground, sensor lead. I drove my first RX-7 for one summer and did the swap over the next winter. Realistically, it's 2 weekends of work if you have access to all the parts, and don't cut any wires.

 

Yeah right! To the guy who has never done one it's a nightmare. Getting the harness out of the old one and putting in the new one is a major bitch to do.
rx7doctor

 

lol, you're just hoping for a flight out to help this guy!

Actually, best resource for this swap is the key-on voltage chart in the factory service manual. If you have all the right voltages, the engine will run. If you don't, you've already isolated the circuit, easy enough to fix.

 

Actually if he gets really frustrated he will buy my 84se,lol rx7doctor

 

You got any pics and maybe give a price??( if you still have it)