gsl-se victim of a hit and run
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gsl-se victim of a hit and run
About a week ago my 85 gsl-se was a victim of a hit and run. I reported it to my insurance and they want to total the car and give me 1700 for the it. Which I think is really low. The car is in good condition with a 133,000 miles and it has a red exterior with grey interior. It also has tokico white shocks, RB springs, Camber plate adjustment, RB holley carb and loovers. I know that gsl-se are become more and more rare. Looking on auto trader I have seen them range from 3500-5000. Are there any production numbers for gsl-se during 84-85 and that also show how many red gsl-se they made? The damage is only on the drivers side door and on the drivers rear quarter panel. What should I do ?
#2
Right near Malloy
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Buy it back. They cut a little off your check and give you the car with a salvage title.
Not a problem if you're never gonna sell the car.
BUT that value IS definitely low... Find ads for similar cars in your area on here, CraigsList, the classifieds, AutoTrader, and whatever you can. Get receipts for all your aftermarket parts.
Sentimental value means nothing to an insurance company. If you can prove that it's worth money, they'll repair it.
Not a problem if you're never gonna sell the car.
BUT that value IS definitely low... Find ads for similar cars in your area on here, CraigsList, the classifieds, AutoTrader, and whatever you can. Get receipts for all your aftermarket parts.
Sentimental value means nothing to an insurance company. If you can prove that it's worth money, they'll repair it.
#3
advanced novice
fight to the end and have an estimate from a good body man in hand and ready they tried to pull that crap when this retard back into the hood of my beetle and dented it. they told me the damage is more that 1000 so we might look in to totaling it my words were "you will not. you want me to total your only mode of transportation for just a dent?" hood needed to be replaced and i needed a new latch that was it. the claim is not with geico is it. if so get a new provider they pull that stuff all the time
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Since I have all three generations I told them it was a colectors item. I also told them that gsl-se are super rare compared to gs's. I think there estimate is off a gs blue book value instead of a gsl-se. That is why I need some production numbers so I can show them its is a rare car.
#5
love the braaaap
Unfortunately I think that value is about right for a GSL-SE. I don't know if its different down there in the US, but in Canada the insurance companies go by the wholesale value of the car for the check they give you. I know the wholesale for a GSL-SE is about $2000 CND. The fact is, these cars aren't actually worth that much in wholesale.
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#8
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It's the RETAIL price that's important.
First, try really hard to get them to fix it. Get your repair estimates in line and some value estimates from craigslist, KBB, etc.
Avoid the 'salvage' title even if you intend to keep the car. In CA they require a $700 safety check to put it back on the road, so that takes a big piece of your settlement.
First, try really hard to get them to fix it. Get your repair estimates in line and some value estimates from craigslist, KBB, etc.
Avoid the 'salvage' title even if you intend to keep the car. In CA they require a $700 safety check to put it back on the road, so that takes a big piece of your settlement.
#9
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yeah , i agree. there was a guy on here not long ago that got almost 10k coverage for his. look on ebay , the gs's in decent running condition are going for 1700. i would sugjest changing inssurance too. nothing like having someone you give money to every month try screwing you out of more ,
#10
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Hey, I just posted that link on another thread,
here it is:
good old George Bates
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=appraisal
et, voila!
here it is:
good old George Bates
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=appraisal
et, voila!
#12
Old Fart Young at Heart
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find out what it takes in your state to have a salvage designation removed from your car tittle. If it's possible, buy the car back. 77 bucks is a steal. Then buy a door, less than 100, strip the external boltons, sand and prep the body and find a decent shop to repair the rear 1/4 and paint it.
If you can't get the salvage designation removed, document all of the damage, even hidden damage and the repairs for future buyers.
If you can't get the salvage designation removed, document all of the damage, even hidden damage and the repairs for future buyers.
#13
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Demand $4,500 as fair Price
Take the Money and buy back your Car. Depending on the state and the insurance company, the Title may or may not acquire a salvage notation. You need to present evidence the Car is worth more. $1,700 is simply a lowball offer for those uninformed enough to accept. Your car seem to be in good condition before the accident and is worth much more. RX-7's are extremely rare, especially GSL-SE model. Look in Newspapers, Autotrader, and standard price guides to find the highest value. Appraisal is helpful also.
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Autotrader Search Data:
$4,995 Highest price
$495 Lowest price
$3,600 Average price
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NADA high retail value is $4,000. You have upgrade Shocks, Springs, and Carb, for higher value.
NADA Data:
Original MSRP: $15,645
Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
Base Price
$2,125 $2,975 $4,000
TOTAL PRICE $2,125 $2,975* $4,000
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".
Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.
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After your car is repaired you should change insurance to Hagerty, Grundy, or American Collectors, etc.
----
Autotrader Search Data:
$4,995 Highest price
$495 Lowest price
$3,600 Average price
-------------
NADA high retail value is $4,000. You have upgrade Shocks, Springs, and Carb, for higher value.
NADA Data:
Original MSRP: $15,645
Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
Base Price
$2,125 $2,975 $4,000
TOTAL PRICE $2,125 $2,975* $4,000
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".
Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.
--------
After your car is repaired you should change insurance to Hagerty, Grundy, or American Collectors, etc.
Last edited by kleinke; 10-16-07 at 07:04 PM.
#16
What are you sniffing? A good paint job will cost a lot more than $1700 Market rate for a good (not great) paint job is closer to $4,500 last time I was getting quotes. Many people pay +$7,000 if there's body work or a color change.
But that's beside the point. The insurance company is lowballing you, which is their standard operating procedure. With the NADA and Autotrader numbers both over $3,500 you should not settle for any less than that. Market value is probably more.
But that's beside the point. The insurance company is lowballing you, which is their standard operating procedure. With the NADA and Autotrader numbers both over $3,500 you should not settle for any less than that. Market value is probably more.
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