GSL-SE Manual Steering Box Removal
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GSL-SE Manual Steering Box Removal
I have been looking for a few days now for any tips on doing this, but can't find any. Do any of you have any tips for tackling this job? The Haynes manual says I need to remove the Pitman arm completely and that the column shaft will have to be pulled through the engine side of the firewall. Anybody have any tips or even war stories on how best to accomplish this amazing feat? Even with the A/C bracket removed, I am wondering if there will be enough clearance to get the column clear of the firewall.
Thanks everybody,
Jon
'85 GSL-SE
'93 MB Touring
Thanks everybody,
Jon
'85 GSL-SE
'93 MB Touring
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C'mon, all these people who drop 13BTs and R&P systems in their cars, and nobody has ever pulled a manual steering box before?
I pulled the A/C bracket anyway, because I don't think I can pull the box out from underneath with the column attached. Battery is gone now too - it just doesn't look like there will be quite enough room to pull it past the side of the engine...not sure.
I pulled the A/C bracket anyway, because I don't think I can pull the box out from underneath with the column attached. Battery is gone now too - it just doesn't look like there will be quite enough room to pull it past the side of the engine...not sure.
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Searching FSM, parts fiches, and Haynes for a 1985 Model. Stand by. (It pays to have ALL sources at arms reach... I just hope supercell checks back in.
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Okie here we go.
FSM and Haynes agree for the most part:
Remove battery cables. (To prevent electrical short circuit because ignition switch will be toyed around, also may clear area near the box if you just take the battery out of the car.)
Remove steering wheel (Mark it before removal so you can put it back the same way. 19mm Nut under horn cap. Don't bang it, use a puller or rock it back and forth to get it off.), column covers (Several screws, plastic splits in half.) Air duct under column, Combination switch (Turn signal, lights, wipers, etc.)
Remove steering lock mechanism (Different section of manual. 10A-14) Bolts are security type that may need to be removed by chisel, drill, or dremel. New bolts, when reassembling are tightened until heads snap off.
Back to steering gear removal... Remove column jacket/brace bracket. (Two bolts, U shaped, holds up column to dashboard underskeleton.)
Outside of car... Remove the hood (Not exactly sure why, but the manual says so. Perhaps to get it out of the way.)
Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands. Disconnect center steering link (Bar that runs left and right under the car.) from the pittman arm (Swing arm that is connected to the steering box.) Perhaps puller is needed. Mazda special tool number 49 0118 850C
Remove Pittman arm from gearbox'es Sector shaft also may require puller, Mazda special tool number 40 0223 695E
Remove bolts that secure steering box to frame rail and box should slide out through engine comaprtment with column attached.
NOTE: Be sure to remember where shims, if any, go. They may be located between the frame and steering box...
Replacement is reverse of disassembly. Pittman arm only goes on the sector shaft one way, so don't force it. Observe splines or serrations.
Torque specs:
Pittman arm to sector shaft: 150-180 N-m (108-130 Ft/Lb)
Steering gearbox to frame: Specs missing from Mazda FSM, Haynes spec used. 4.4-5.5 N-m (32-40 Ft/Lb)
FSM and Haynes agree for the most part:
Remove battery cables. (To prevent electrical short circuit because ignition switch will be toyed around, also may clear area near the box if you just take the battery out of the car.)
Remove steering wheel (Mark it before removal so you can put it back the same way. 19mm Nut under horn cap. Don't bang it, use a puller or rock it back and forth to get it off.), column covers (Several screws, plastic splits in half.) Air duct under column, Combination switch (Turn signal, lights, wipers, etc.)
Remove steering lock mechanism (Different section of manual. 10A-14) Bolts are security type that may need to be removed by chisel, drill, or dremel. New bolts, when reassembling are tightened until heads snap off.
Back to steering gear removal... Remove column jacket/brace bracket. (Two bolts, U shaped, holds up column to dashboard underskeleton.)
Outside of car... Remove the hood (Not exactly sure why, but the manual says so. Perhaps to get it out of the way.)
Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands. Disconnect center steering link (Bar that runs left and right under the car.) from the pittman arm (Swing arm that is connected to the steering box.) Perhaps puller is needed. Mazda special tool number 49 0118 850C
Remove Pittman arm from gearbox'es Sector shaft also may require puller, Mazda special tool number 40 0223 695E
Remove bolts that secure steering box to frame rail and box should slide out through engine comaprtment with column attached.
NOTE: Be sure to remember where shims, if any, go. They may be located between the frame and steering box...
Replacement is reverse of disassembly. Pittman arm only goes on the sector shaft one way, so don't force it. Observe splines or serrations.
Torque specs:
Pittman arm to sector shaft: 150-180 N-m (108-130 Ft/Lb)
Steering gearbox to frame: Specs missing from Mazda FSM, Haynes spec used. 4.4-5.5 N-m (32-40 Ft/Lb)
#7
WTF?
The pitaman arm comes completly out
and your colum shaft just slides right out the firewall
Nuff said, drop buy AntoniosMotors in NB, around the corner
of the docks on 11th street
Mention my name, he'll work it out for a reasonable price.
WORD
The pitaman arm comes completly out
and your colum shaft just slides right out the firewall
Nuff said, drop buy AntoniosMotors in NB, around the corner
of the docks on 11th street
Mention my name, he'll work it out for a reasonable price.
WORD
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#9
I removed my manual steering box the other day. Definately not necessary to remove the hood and I did not remove the pitman arm. It is necessary to remove the A/C bracket and the battery. As you extract it from the engine side of the firewall you may have to "turn it" to orient the pitman arm as it comes out but it is not necessary to remove it. Yes the pitman arm ends up where the battery was before it is completely free.
I ordered a couple of extra shaft seals if anybody needs one let me know, they are inexpensive.
I ordered a couple of extra shaft seals if anybody needs one let me know, they are inexpensive.
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doing the same thing this weekend along with redoing all linkages. I'm using a used steering column and gear, should I worry about refilling lube? Isn't there a place to lube the top of the column? Am I just pulling this from my a$$? Can I check the looseness on the gear without putting it in? Should I try to adjust it per the link in the adjusting steering play thread before hand? Am I gonna end up paying a mechanic to fix it in my driveway cause I took everything out and now I can't put it back together to drive it to the mechanic to put it back together? Does anybody have a paper bag? I think I'm hyperventilating. Maybe I shouldn't be messing with it. I took apart an atari when I was 14 and I figure this should be easier than that, the rX has less technology. Of course, I never did get the atari to play floyd of the jungle. It was ok with frogger and EA summer games. Skeet shooting was the hardest part of that game.
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Originally Posted by glewsRx
doing the same thing this weekend along with redoing all linkages. I'm using a used steering column and gear, should I worry about refilling lube? Isn't there a place to lube the top of the column? Am I just pulling this from my a$$? Can I check the looseness on the gear without putting it in? Should I try to adjust it per the link in the adjusting steering play thread before hand? Am I gonna end up paying a mechanic to fix it in my driveway cause I took everything out and now I can't put it back together to drive it to the mechanic to put it back together? Does anybody have a paper bag? I think I'm hyperventilating. Maybe I shouldn't be messing with it. I took apart an atari when I was 14 and I figure this should be easier than that, the rX has less technology. Of course, I never did get the atari to play floyd of the jungle. It was ok with frogger and EA summer games. Skeet shooting was the hardest part of that game.
You can check the looseness of the box without installing it in the car. It's called preload.
You may need Mazda special tool number 49 0180 510B and a spring scale. (I'm not sure on the length of Mazda's special tool. That'd be the main issue with finding a substitute. Looks to be 6 inches, but I can't say for sure.) The tool goes on the steering shaft where the steering wheel would noramlly go. Attach spring scale adn measure the force necessary to turn the column. Loosten the large adjusting locknut (Like 40mm or so.) Use a punch and hamer to adjust the 4 hole ring in the center of the locknut. Pull on the spring scale. Preload should be 0.6-1.2 KG (1.3-2.6 LBs)...
Huge Locknut should be tightened to 70-100 N-m (51-72 Ft/Lbs)
#13
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I don't think I'm gonna be buying any special mazda tool. Can't I use any spring scale? If so, what is a spring scale? Floyd of the Jungle is best viewed in monochrome green. I think I'm gonna paint my car that color.
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Originally Posted by glewsRx
I don't think I'm gonna be buying any special mazda tool. Can't I use any spring scale? If so, what is a spring scale? Floyd of the Jungle is best viewed in monochrome green. I think I'm gonna paint my car that color.
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