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Ok guys, so I have rebuilt my gsl-se motor and am trying to clean everything up as I put it back in the car.
I know there is a great color coded vacuum diagram around but there are a few items I can't figure out what they do...
All emissions is removed from the car and it is indeed a racecar so all I care about is keeping the EFI system working, which I know means keeping most of the rats nest but I can't figure out what I'm looking at.
Help!
1. I think I read that this functions to inject air into the injector ports to help atomize the fuel. I have been running the car with the line coming out capped off so is this important? Do I need to keep this big solenoid thing on there?
2. I just don't know what this is doing and I have had it capped off for years... I am at a loss. I think I read that it powers the brake booster? My brakes feel great...
The long line you marked in red is for the aux port actuators. The other thing you circled is not present on FC manifolds as far as I know, so I don't know much about it. The little nipple, however, should be routed... to something. And I don't know if the solenoid thing affects it.
Where is LongDuck when you need him? He has experience with GSL-SE stuff.
The GSL-SE injection system is actually pretty impressive on how much you can disconnect or modify and still have it run OK. On my race car I kept the 2 injectors and stock ECU and air flow meter while changing almost everything else around it and it still kept running strong. The engine had a header and pretty big street porting and I installed a complete S4 intake and throttle body. I ended up with a single vacuum solenoid from the rats nest to activate the vacuum advance on the distributor, I eliminated the bypass air control valve, I eliminated the TPS by keeping it plugged in but rotating the sensor out of the way so it never activated. The ECU bases so much of its calculations on the air flow meter that most other signals are very minor in the grand scheme of things, I made an effort to remove every single wire that wasn't necessary to run the engine. At one point I accidentally removed the wire for the intake air temp sensor, I couldn't tell any difference in how it ran, but I did put it back since it made more sense to have it than not.
All that said for this season I am converting to a S5 4 injector system and Megasquirt to get something more modern and maybe get some better drivability and fuel mileage.
As someone stated, that solenoid on the top of the Lower Intake Manifold is a temperature sensitive oriface that opens at sub-freezing temps and allows input of a 90/10 mix of antifreeze to water, as powered by a motor in the sub-zero starting assist reservoir. Most people have removed the sub-zero system when the motor died, or just never filled the reservoir. It's primary purpose was to help seal the chambers and rotors under very, very cold conditions by injecting the antifreeze as part of the intake charge. Theres a single vacuum line there that goes to the front of the RE-EGI chamber for a source and will need to be capped off to avoid a vacuum leak. The solenoid itself should remain, as removal will open up a good sized hole down into the primary intake path to the center housing.
If you want to remove it, just cap off the hose which would carry the anti-freeze mix to prevent a vacuum leak at sub-zero temps when the bimetal spring would allow it to be open along with the vacuum line - or keep the vacuum line to the RE-EGI chamber, as you need to cap it at the source, too. I kept the vacuum line and capped the feed hose for simplicity, and it's been capped for 15+ years, but I also live in the desert where it never gets that cold.
The aux port actuator line is not open to atmosphere nor penetrates the intake manifold, so if not used for 5/6 port actuation, is probably not hooked up to your exhaust backpressure valve, anyway, and removal is unnecessary from the LIM. As an aside, your piecture is hard to see, but it looks like your aux ports have been wired CLOSED instead of OPEN - was that your intention? In this position, you gain low RPM intake velocity, but would limit top-end airflow at WOT. Mazda designed this system as a reliable bridgeport and was an early foray into variable port timing.
A picture directly at the side of the LIM would show port sleeve position.
As an aside, your piecture is hard to see, but it looks like your aux ports have been wired CLOSED instead of OPEN - was that your intention? In this position, you gain low RPM intake velocity, but would limit top-end airflow at WOT. Mazda designed this system as a reliable bridgeport and was an early foray into variable port timing.
A picture directly at the side of the LIM would show port sleeve position.
If the sleeves are gone, it doesn't matter where the actuator rods are pointing. I removed all of the hardware and capped the holes with 3/8 pipe plugs on my intake.
So I thought my ports were wired open... but if I think about it, I can't be sure I know that. I wired them so they were in the position that corresponded to when the port actuator shafts where "sucked all the way in", if that makes sense.
I have since removed all hardware are jb welded dimes in the holes.
mhr650: I see you on lemons and chump forums as well. I have actually saved pictures of your engine bay on my computer because it's so clean I like to reference what you do and don't have.
My plan is to move to an s4 intake eventually, but for now this is my first rebuild and I did my own porting so getting it to run is task 1.
Careful with your s4 intake running chumpcar... that's like 50 points ya know
12A car with S4 or S5 swap = -50 points compared to claiming it started out as a GSL-SE
In truth my car really did start out as a 12A car, the only other real difference between a GSL and SE is the brakes and I have a 2X upgrade to second gen big brakes anyway.
12A car with S4 or S5 swap = -50 points compared to claiming it started out as a GSL-SE
In truth my car really did start out as a 12A car, the only other real difference between a GSL and SE is the brakes and I have a 2X upgrade to second gen big brakes anyway.
Easy now. This is a safe place. No tech inspectors here.
I set up the red car like mhr650 using as few wires as possible. It was an S4 NA swap. It had ok tip-in but not much power above that, even with the RB full long primary exhaust. Engine had stock but smoothed 6 ports and removed exhaust diffuser wings. It was no slouch, but when I swapped the RB long primary into the brown car and tested it with one of my early hogged out Nikkis, I was amazed at the similar power than the EFI but with far less complication. I'd even venture to say the early Nikki made more power, despite its shortcomings. I think it did.
That was with an early carb back when I was still experimenting in early to mid 2014. Now I have a really nice Nikki I set up in November 2015 that I'd like to try with the same exhaust. I'm curious if I can achieve more power than the stock EFI was capable of. I already know how powerful it is with a turbo. Just curious what it would do NA.
The GSL-SE injection system is actually pretty impressive on how much you can disconnect or modify and still have it run OK. On my race car I kept the 2 injectors and stock ECU and air flow meter while changing almost everything else around it and it still kept running strong. The engine had a header and pretty big street porting and I installed a complete S4 intake and throttle body. I ended up with a single vacuum solenoid from the rats nest to activate the vacuum advance on the distributor, I eliminated the bypass air control valve, I eliminated the TPS by keeping it plugged in but rotating the sensor out of the way so it never activated. The ECU bases so much of its calculations on the air flow meter that most other signals are very minor in the grand scheme of things, I made an effort to remove every single wire that wasn't necessary to run the engine. At one point I accidentally removed the wire for the intake air temp sensor, I couldn't tell any difference in how it ran, but I did put it back since it made more sense to have it than not.
All that said for this season I am converting to a S5 4 injector system and Megasquirt to get something more modern and maybe get some better drivability and fuel mileage.
03-16-16, 11:56 AM
Just curious what it would do NA.
