GSL-SE fuel issues
#26
ancient wizard...
Glad you got it running Jeff,you and your mechanic know more about how the car works now. That can be as satisfying as driving the now running car. Try not to let car sit dormant for too long a time. I have let my SE sit for a little over a year without starting with no ill effects. Full tank of ethanol free fuel- up to top of filler neck so no possibility of condensation. Battery tender on car. BTW,battery in my car is now 19 years old,tests fine,no plans to replace.
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
GSL-SE has new fuel tank, pump, filters, injectors, plugs. Starts pretty reliably now, so it is a matter of trying to fine tune. Car idles pretty well at cold and warm and runs OK. Seems like the issue I have now is a deceleration issue. When pulling up to a stop sign and I let off the accelerator, the idle drops down so low that it occasionally shuts off. Some of this may be due to the time in between drives. Any suggestions would be helpful.
#28
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
1) Carbon build-up in the Throttle Body where the throttle plates close can cause this, as they shut off all incoming air flow due to the carbon clogging up what little bypass there should be around the plates. Opening the Throttle stop screw on the throttle body will allow the throttle plates to bypass the right amount of air, but doesn't fix the problem of carbon buildup. Clean the Throttle Body with carb cleaner after inspecting visually. If no carbon found, you could increase idle speed slightly by adjusting the Throttle Stop Screw on the front of the Main Throttle Rod.
2) Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) on the driver's side of the RE-EGI plenum may be clogged and preventing the proper bypass of air needing to maintain idle. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup and clean properly. Also, you could check the Vent / Vacuum solenoids which operate the BACV which are located directly below it and attached via vacuum hose; make sure they're operating.
See you back here in a month!
2) Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) on the driver's side of the RE-EGI plenum may be clogged and preventing the proper bypass of air needing to maintain idle. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup and clean properly. Also, you could check the Vent / Vacuum solenoids which operate the BACV which are located directly below it and attached via vacuum hose; make sure they're operating.
See you back here in a month!
#31
Full Member
Thread Starter
1) Carbon build-up in the Throttle Body where the throttle plates close can cause this, as they shut off all incoming air flow due to the carbon clogging up what little bypass there should be around the plates. Opening the Throttle stop screw on the throttle body will allow the throttle plates to bypass the right amount of air, but doesn't fix the problem of carbon buildup. Clean the Throttle Body with carb cleaner after inspecting visually. If no carbon found, you could increase idle speed slightly by adjusting the Throttle Stop Screw on the front of the Main Throttle Rod.
2) Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) on the driver's side of the RE-EGI plenum may be clogged and preventing the proper bypass of air needing to maintain idle. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup and clean properly. Also, you could check the Vent / Vacuum solenoids which operate the BACV which are located directly below it and attached via vacuum hose; make sure they're operating.
See you back here in a month!
2) Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) on the driver's side of the RE-EGI plenum may be clogged and preventing the proper bypass of air needing to maintain idle. Remove and inspect for carbon buildup and clean properly. Also, you could check the Vent / Vacuum solenoids which operate the BACV which are located directly below it and attached via vacuum hose; make sure they're operating.
See you back here in a month!
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LongDuck (12-09-19)
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
Went home for the holidays and finally drove car home from mechanic to my dad's old garage. Recap of what mechanic did: New fuel tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel pulse dampener, professionally cleaned injectors, new master cylinder, rebuild front calipers, new clutch master/slave cylinders, new plugs, new battery, rebuilt starter. I gotta say, it has been many years since the GSLSE has run this strong
Once got it to my dad's garage I cleaned the throttle body using throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush, and lubed linkages on throttle body. I did the light test for the TPS and only one light was on. I was able to adjust the idle up it settles out nicely at about 800 RPM. I did not do a sweep test of TPS yet, I ran out of time because of issues I had trying to get the GS to run. The TPS is at least working (changes idle when I push it up) but I may still have a linearity problem with the TPS resistance. Reason it is expected - I occasionally get a bouncy idle from about 900 to 1500 but it clears out when I bump the accelerator. But the issue of stalling when decelerating is gone. Thanks for the hints! One step at a time, right?
More later.
Once got it to my dad's garage I cleaned the throttle body using throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush, and lubed linkages on throttle body. I did the light test for the TPS and only one light was on. I was able to adjust the idle up it settles out nicely at about 800 RPM. I did not do a sweep test of TPS yet, I ran out of time because of issues I had trying to get the GS to run. The TPS is at least working (changes idle when I push it up) but I may still have a linearity problem with the TPS resistance. Reason it is expected - I occasionally get a bouncy idle from about 900 to 1500 but it clears out when I bump the accelerator. But the issue of stalling when decelerating is gone. Thanks for the hints! One step at a time, right?
More later.
Last edited by jkmcafee; 12-30-19 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Corrected post
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