84 SE it was about to start but i let the key go early, didnt fire tried again and NO START. Got spark all the way around, new battery/starter/fuel felter/and plugs, i didnt do a compression test but i cant see compression shoot out of the plug hole.
Oh yea i can hear the fuel pump working 2.



Now when i went to buy my 12a i took out the spark plug and damn near got shot in the eye from the compression, that didnt happen with the SE.

So my question is: WOULD I BE ABLE TO SEE THE COMPRESSION SHOOT OUT OF MY 13B LIKE I SAW WITH MY 12A. OR DO I HAVE TO BY A COMPRESSION TESTER.

Thanks for any help.

 

If the car is flooded and has been sitting for 2 months and im still getting gas on my plugs after i took all plugs out and cranked several times. after letting it sit and dry out im still getting gas on plugs. how do you deflood a 13b, because the last thing i wont to think is DEAD MOTOR, i can move the main pully easy so its not carbon locked.

Sorry this thread is all mixed up im at work, AND U KNOW HOW THAT GOES

Thanks again for any help.

 

If you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key to the on position(not start) then the AFM (Air flow Meter) is defective or the fuel pump wiring has been changed.
The fuel pump on a Se is not supposed to come on until you start cranking the engine over.

You need to pull the fusible link in the engine bay that is marked, Fuel injection. Then crank the engine over. This will disable the fuel system.

Also for more tips. Do a search with the terms deflooding.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=deflooding

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=deflooding


Those are just some of the threads that you will find with searching.

 

AFM? Where is this AFM? You speak of?

Doc, ive done the fuze trick, and i should have told u i searched.

Ok ITS not the AFM, the fuel pump works like Doc says.

when i go to crank the car for the last 2 months its been ERRRRRR, it cant be flooded still can it?. i have no compression.

 

AFM is Air/Fuel Meter (or Monitor)

It's part of the large box that is underneath your air filter box.

 

You need to find rotorheads that live in your area and pay them in beer to come over and help...you'll learn a bunch from them and they'll also see things that you are not telling us here because you don't know that's a problem. I say this because anyone working on a car should automatically know what AFM, TB, EFI, TPS, IAC or ECU means. You stand to do a lot more damage to your car since it's EFI by trying to learn your car crafting skilz with it as the guinea pig than on a carb'd car.

 

Perform a compression test per the procedure as listed in the archives.
If you have acceptable compression as outlined in the thread then continue with the listed information below.
If you do not have good compression or have a dead rotor then you have found your real issue.

There are a lot more threads on the subject but since you are new I am going to cut you slack this one time only. :-)

Biggest thing in getting her started besides making sure that you have good compression,spark, etc.... Is cranking speed after it has been flooded.

I recommend this to everyone. Make sure that your battery is "Fully" charged. Then get a jumper vehicle and hook it up to the car. You want as much cranking amps as possible.
Pull the fuse for the injection system. Pull the plugs. Take a piece of white paper and put it in front of the plug holes and crank the engine over until there is no more residue of fuel hitting the paper.
Get a oil squirt can and inject some oil into the plug holes.
Verify the plugs are dry and clean and reinstall them.
Get a can of starting fluid. Take the air intake hose off where it joins the throttle body. Open the throttle and spray a fair amount of fluid into the throttle body.
Put the intake hose back on and make sure that the small hose that comes off the side is sealed good.
Crank the engine and see if it fires or attempts to fire. If it wants to fire or fires then dies then put the fusible link back for the injection system and crank the engine again.

 

As rx7doctor said, search is your friend...

Take a look at the problem I was having...

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/need-help-wont-start-will-turn-over-though-713712/

Make sure once you clear the rotors by having the plugs out that you shoot fresh oil in there and then put new spark plugs in there and try it then without the fuel pump. That was the final thing that I needed to do to make mine come back to life...

 

AFM is Air Flow Meter. It only adjusts air not fuel.

 

Doc gave me the same advice about 6 months ago. The white paper thing worked great. Ultimately I had to do it twice because I didn't have the cranking speed to get it to start and the plugs got fuel fouled again. Use the jumper vehicle and let it sit with cables on for a good 10 minutes before trying to crank over your 7. It worked for me...by the way, thanks again Doc.

 

Your welcome Hogan,

Looks like I should archive this so we have it for future reference on the SE. :-)

 

^ Please do! I had this problem over the weekend.

I solved mine with 4 new 2nd Gen plugs; BUR7EQ x2 on Leading and BUR8EQ x2 on Trailing. Next I squirted a little Royal Purple synthetic ( I use R.P. synthetic oil in my Rotary. If you use standard, Dino, Mineral, Oil then use that oil in place of my synthetic) oil in the housings to bring up the compression and presto. After about two good turn overs it fired right up and smoked like a freaking chemical fire out of control. Then after that cleared up I never had a problem after that! I must say switching from the first gen plugs to the second gen plugs that look flat and round on the top in my case made a huge difference in idle speed and in stability of the engine in whole. I had previously fouled brand new NGK 4 prong plugs. I recommend it to all of the -SE 13B owners from my personal experience!!!

 

Thanks for the reminder. I was stabbing in the dark.