Ok guys i was on my way to work the other day and started the se then it just died suddenly out of nowhere. So i thought it was a fuel issue changed fuel pump checked for signal at pump and it has signal. Changed fuel filter getting fuel at rail as i should. Checked for spark i have spark at both coils. Thought that spark may not be hot enough swapped in new coils no change. checked ecu ground wires installed new tips on them so they are new didn't fix it. If i open the air flow meter with a long socket extention and spray starting fluid in it with a straw it fires right up! Then dies when the starting fluid is gone I think its not getting injector pulse but what would cause that where do i look first or what else could it be? Thanks everyone hopefully i can get it going asap i miss the damn thing.

 

Not an EFI guy at all, but have you searched any on your fuel pulse dampener?

 

Checked it out its not leaking and it seems to be just fine.

 

did u check the ground under the upper intake by the support bracket? If its bad you wont get injector pulse

 

do either of the 2 extra fusible links on the SE have to do with the fuel injectors?

 

The two extra fuses do have to do with the fuel injection system.

 

Be sure the Air Funnel (big hose) between the Air flow meter and the intake is not leaking. Two hoses are held together with a metal clamp. Each end has a clamp also. A small hose attaches at the top of the Air Funnel near the intake. All of these are possible air leaks. It doesn't take a very big leak to cause the car to not start.

The Injector Fusible link also supplies power to the coils through one of the main relays. White wire from link goes to the relay. Black yellow wire from the relay goes to the injectors, coils and ignitors. If you have stock ignition wiring and power to the coils, that Fusible link is OK.

 

Going to check out the air funnel for leaks tomorrow if possible the coils have power and the fusible links were replaced long ago with a 2nd gen fuse box so i know thats not the issue all fuses are good as well. Thanks for the insight on things anything else it could be while im at it?

 

how did you check for spark? also is your tach moving (bouncing to about 250rpm) while cranking?

 

not for sure about the tach bouncing don't really remember but i will look tomorrow when i go to work on it and i took out a plug left it in the boot and put it on the strut tower and watched it spark on leading and trailing.

 

Did you run out of gas? I only ask because this happened to me and I was baffled but I found out that my fuel gauge wasn't reading correctly and I had just ran out of gas.

 

Nope just filled it up the day before and my fuel guage doesn't work either been going off the mileage for 2 years

So update i think it is the mass airflow causing the problem because now it will start then instantly die if i give it gas it chokes if i leave it alone it chokes also i checked the resistance values per the fsm and value of e2-vs does not change at all so i think that is the problem what do you guys think?

 

Unplug the vaf and try to start it, it if does start that's the problem. An air leak in the intake pipe could cause it to not run.. But I've ran cars with the hose split wide open..Just the air isn't metered and the computer won't know why its lean and richen it up to combat the false lean reading.

Just because your getting fuel to the rails doesn't mean everything is fine in the fuel system. I've had a fuel issue where the car wouldn't start on its own or very hard and it would die after running for 5-10 mins. Check the fuel pressure, use noid lights to verify injector signals. On mine fuel pressure was normal when running but when cranking it wasnt and the bleed off was too fast as well. Ended up being the fuel pump even though I had replaced it twice and both were good pumps.

It sounds like you have a fuel problem as its very similar symptoms to what mine did.

 

you need to check the fuel pressure with a gauge.If I remember right the SE fuel pump starts to work as soon as you turn the key to on position the pressure should go up to 70psi and start going down as your starting the car,if the pressure don't go down at all your fpr is bad and it wont start. GL

 

On mine the fuel pump does not come on with the key in the on position but if i jumper the yellow connector it does is this normal?

Also if i jumper the connector and i can hear the pump running and try to start it it changes nothing.

 

Yes, it's normal. Do you have a Haynes manual? If you do look at page 267, it tells you how to test the pump and regulator. Jumping the connector is to test the pump and shoud read 49.8 to 71.1 psi.To test the regulator you need to tee the the feed line and start the car and see reading in your gauge.

 

Do the volume test too, even if it passes the pressure test. Mine passed the pressure, but failed badly the volume.

 

Got it running thanks for all of the help guys. It was the fuel filter in line screen between the rubber line and the metal line. The little cone filter was clogged up shut and it wasn't allowing me to build fuel pressure correctly. I cleaned it and it runs great thanks again for all of the help.

 

Rotor Motor,

Mine was the exact same way. The little plastic in-line cone filter was clogged. Glad you found it. If I were you, I'd get that tank flushed and sealed or it may happen again.