grotto107

Here's another one that I took this morning. We are not moving the camera. All that up and down movement is from the car bucking

GSLSEforme

Watched both your videos,what happens if you floor it and try to drive thru it? Can you duplicate that condition sitting still,or does it need to be under power?

grotto107

Will try to drive through it today.
I can't duplicate that bad surging and cutting off when not driving, but it will skip and break up as shown in the earlier videos here. It needs to be under power and under a load to get the bad surging and cutting off.

grotto107

the video "84 rx7 hot running" shows the breakup best

GSLSEforme

1) be sure your TPS is adjusted correctly.
2) check wires/connectors at injectors. Put eyes on engine harness. With engine running,wiggle wires at injector connectors. Manipulate every section of engine harness you can touch,move wires around.Pull gently,don't yank. When something changes the way the engine runs,duplicate what you did so the results are repeatable so you're not taking a random misfire as the problem. What areas underhood did you have hands on before your road test where car was "fixed"?
3) Timing,base,centrifugal,vacuum advance needs to be checked.

Take a pic looking down on distributor to show the holdown bolt.
Take pics of primary throttle bore throttle plate in closed position,1/3 open and full open. If you need to,hold a light there to get good pics. I couldn't see what i was looking for as the throttle bore was in shadow.

grotto107

Partial update:

1. checked tps again. correctly set

2. Two of us wiggled all wires and harnesses that we could find under the hood.No problems. I will get out the FSM tomorrow morning and locate the injector harness. Will recheck injector harness when I locate it.
We didn't touch anything under the hood when it fixed itself but the variable resistor and the can of wd-40.

3. timing light will be delivered tomorrow.

4.Took a pic of dizzy hold down bolt, but it's on pete's phone and he hasn't sent it to me yet. Will post it tomorrow. the bolt was about dead center in the slot and was secure.

5. took 3 pix of top hole in the throttle body.Same deal-on Pete's phone. Will post them tomorrow.

GSLSEforme

Focus on injector connectors and wires coming out of them,that's what i was getting at. As these cars age the wires get work hardened and they also corrode right at connector terminals and sometimes only have 2-3 strands of wire actually connected. They will eventually corrode all the way off and you're running on one rotor. I use a skinny long handled screwdriver and mirror with car running and just touch and move injector wires slightly each direction. If the wire/terminal corroded/broken engine will hiccup when you're moving wires. I don't think this is what's causing your issue,have to check everything...

Were you able to floor it and drive thru the problem?

Relationship of bolt/slot on distributor tells me base ignition timing very close.

grotto107

Drove car this morning to drive through skips. When I floor it(2nd gear) it starts to break up about 3000, skips from 3000 to 6000, and holds at 6000 breaking up. Will not rev past 6000 when driving

GSLSEforme

Before you start car next time,put eyes on 5th and 6th port actuators,specifically the linkage. They should be mirror images but at exact angles. Push linkage on actuators with your thumb. There will be resistance from spring inside of actuator but you should be able to push down and rotate sleeves in both aux ports. They should move smoothly the same amount and return fully. Both should have same resistance to turning.

When do you get your new cap and rotor. Let me know before you install them. Maybe let the car sit til you have them.Need to rule that and ignition timing out.
Post up TB pics when you get a chance.Need to rule out ignition and electrics before moving on to other things.

grotto107

Here's the pic of the dizzy hold down.

1. timing light should be in today

2. oem dizzy cap arrived yesterday

3. Rotor butten has not shipped yet. I canceled order and will order elsewhere today.I want to get correct one. Does the 12a and 13b take the same dizzy button? I'm looking to order another Mazda part 8245 24 303A 9U. Mazda parts manual says this is correct for an 84 rx7 but doesn't say which engine it's for.The parts sites are very confusing. Some say it's correct for both engines and others say it's for the 12a only. Is this the one I want?

4. Will try to test the actuators today.

5. TB pix. I have about 20. Almost impossible to get a flashlight and a cell phone in there together. Cell phone blocks flashlight. 3 of us worked on pix yesterday. one controlling throttle, one holding Maglite, and one taking pix. I will sort through them today and post the best ones today.

grotto107

here are TB pix. I apologize for the darkness. Were much lighter when viewed on phone. I can't get my photoshop to work to lighten them.
Let me know if I need to try something else and take more photos

GSLSEforme

Cap/rotor for 12A and 13B same.
RE: TB pics,when taking tb pic to show to a customer,i turn lights out in garage and let flash from phone illuminate throttle bore.
I don't think actuators are cause of this problem as you are having issues below threshold for them to open,never say never,need to eliminate possible causes before moving on.You may have or will notice you're starting diagnosis with making sure all systems are up to snuff.

Diagnostics will go in a more specific direction once general checks completed. Keeping a running car til something needs to be disassembled to test or for inspection is best efficient way to attack an issue like this. For what it's worth,problems such as this can be diagnosed in @1-1.5 hours being familiar with vehicle and with all tools needed at hand. I think i know what the problem may be but until things i'm asking you to check are ruled out,it's really an educated guess.What i'm directing you to investigate is how i would approach this problem,takes longer with you and car being there and me here.
Again FWIW,by the time you're done,you'll know a lot more about how your car works,maybe more than you want to,lol. There are currently two similar threads on this model running in this forum. Solution for both is possibly same,but that can't be determined until some preliminary and specific tests can be done.

GSLSEforme

Not as much clarity/detail needed,we'll go back to this once the driveability issue(s) are identified. What i'm trying to determine with these pics is more about getting cold start,base warm idle and electrical load and ac idle up adjustments squared away once other problems found and repaired. Looking at all systems to determine what's needed to bring car back to proper operation. Once you get the rotor installed we'll resume problem solving. This car is not your DD?

grotto107

Rotor cap is on order again

Wish I had a garage here to take TB pix. I'm at my beach condo and all I have is a parking lot. All my tools (and timing lite) are in my garage 7 hours away. That's probably the problem. Too much surrounding light.Suffered from sunstroke yesterday because of time in parking lot with no sunscreen.

I already have learned much more about the car in the last week while working on the car.than I ever knew. I'm hangin in there and still working and learning.

grotto107

I understand.
Yes it is my DD.

grotto107

Actuators

The front one will go down about 1/2 of the rod length, and will slowly return to upward position

The rear one is frozen, and I can't move it

GSLSEforme

Ok,DD.

Is the rear actuator linkage at about the same angle as the front/ mirror image. Look at the stem on the actuator itself. On the front one that moves,you will see the stem move in and out as you manipulate the linkage. When you release it,take note of how much of the stem is exposed. Compare that dimension to the rear actuator,same?

When you touch front rotor actuator linkage you will find you can jiggle it a bit as in it has free play.
Does rear rotor actuator linkage have free play like front one?

grotto107

Both stems are the same length .Or have the same length exposed, put another way.

I can jiggle the front can and get some free play in the linkage . the rear can may have a very tiny bit of play maybe 1mm or so, but nothing like the front one.I think the movement is the t tightening of the linkage, .and for all practical purposes, it doesn't move.

I didn't understand the question about the linkage angle, but I think I do now. Will check

I've enclosed pix of both

grotto107

actuator


Actuator
pix here

grotto107

m y guess is that the angle of the linkage is the same. Can you tell from the pix? Both of the swivel parts coming off the engine are resting on their stops

GSLSEforme

Wait til dark,lol Seriously,sunstroke is no joke. Myself i see a dermatologist to stay on top of skin damage to my face and legs from being in a boat for 14 hours that had catastrophic engine damage. Supposed to be predawn to 1st light hit and run trip.
So,this is your DD,how far do you have to drive everyday. Saw houses in your video,look a lot like houses and motels i stay in on fishing trips on Outer Banks.

GSLSEforme

The actuators are connected by that linkage to sleeves in 5th and 6th auxiliary ports that gives the effect of a mild bridgeport. Feels like a turbocharging effect. When exhaust pressure builds up enough back pressure,that small amount of air pressure overcomes spring tension inside of actuators and thru linkage rotates sleeves to open aux ports and let air thru.This occurs @3800 rpm.
Both aux port sleeves are closed. The rear sleeve is likely carbon locked,the alternative is the actuator is seized. Not seen too many seized actuators. Recall plugs from rear rotor were darker than those of front rotor?To free up the carbon locked sleeve will require removing dynamic chamber,upper and lower intake manifolds to get to them. The car can be driven without aux ports operational,one hasn't been working for some time. These not working correctly have no effect on starting,idling and low to mid range power and can be crossed off list of cause of problem(s).

GSLSEforme

Just saw your post,i can't imagine anything they did affected it,Coincidence it ran better next day,poorly the next. Why should become clear soon.It does have a rear rotor actuator/sleeve problem but have determined it to be stuck closed. The other appears not to open fully,with miles on car probably carboned up. Don't believe they'll be a factor in diagnosis,once other problem(s) rooted out and repaired,he can drive car with them the way they are. Have some suspicions of what's going on but want owner to go thru systems,really sucks when you go to do a repair that doesn't fix problem and it turns out to be something stupid...

grotto107

I'm retired. So I drive to the grocery store about 3 times a week. Have been borrowing Petes car since mine croaked..Will take a road trip about every 2 or 3 months back to forest city NC where my garage and other cars are.I'm at my beach condo on North Topsail Beach now
South of outer banks. Never had sun poisoning before. It's a bitch kitty
Shivered and sweated all night. Better today but muscle and joint pain and dizziness.

grotto107

Damn. I thought that we had found the problem.
My timing light did not arrive yesterday. So much for Amazon Prime and guaranteed 2-day delivery. Probably just as well. More sunstroke fever and chills again last night. I'm gonna stay inside today. Funny, I've spent most of my time for the last 13 years on the beach and never had a sunstroke. It just hit me that day before yesterday I spent a couple hours in the parking lot working on my bright silver car.It must have acted like a mirror and intensified the sunlight.
I'll have to live without the 2 extra injectors now. No place here to tear into the engine.