Gsl-se
05-09-10, 09:09 PM
#1
Gsl-se
OK so i bought a 84 GSL-SE Car has 67,000 Miles on it and is in GREAT condition for its age. I got it home and re-assembled the fan/shroud. and went to start it up. It started fine, but will not idle At all. I kept it on for a few minutes and turned it off and then it wouldnt start back up. I pulled the plugs and they were soaked. So it is being flooded. Now heres a couple of things that contribute (i think) the FPR Solenoid is missing (both vacums just left open) and there is no gas cap. I have changed the fuel filter and when it does run, it runs great. but i wont stop flooding. Any ideas? is there a way to bypass the Solenoid and run without it? Does the gas cap have anything to do with this?
05-09-10, 09:50 PM
#2
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If it's getting flooded after you turn it off, then fuel is getting into the engine somehow. It's possible your injectors are leaking a bit. Also you do need the FPR solenoid. FPR is controlled by the vacuum. Not to mention having vacuum lines just hanging open is no good, and it's probably why it won't idle. Try plugging them up, at least.
05-10-10, 03:48 PM
#6
With the low mileage and condition if the car, I suggest putting everything back stock and sending the injectors out for service. Sounds like they're leaking, causing the flooding. With that low of mileage the car has sat a lot, a can of Seafoam wouldn't hurt. Also check that the Aux ports are still working.
05-10-10, 10:02 PM
#7
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I agree with trochoid try some sea foam my GSL-SE did that one time and my sat for a couple of years before I bought it. Mine had 103,000 miles on it. After I bought it I put A can of sea foam in it and never had a problem with it since.
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05-13-10, 06:36 PM
#11
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Leaky injectors, as another poster has stated.
The trick about the fuel injector 'cutoff switch' is a good one; it allows the driver to control when the fuel injectors fire, and subsequently allows the driver to turn off fuel flow if the engine is believed to be flooded. Cranking on the dry engine then airs it out.
The fuel injectors will not fire if they don't see a trigger signal from the Leading Ignitor. The Leading Ignitor only fires when the engine is turning the distributor shaft. The Trigger Wire is a single white wire attached to the lower spade terminal on the front Ignitor at the driver's side strut tower. Install the switch on the white wire if you're so inclined, or just know to disconnect it when the engine is flooded. This will shut off the injector pulses, but you'll still have fuel pressure.
An alternate method is to install a fuel cut switch on the Fuel Pump fuse under the driver's side dashboard. This effectively shuts off all fuel flow, though the injectors will still fire, but won't have fuel pressure - so it effects the same end result.
Solution #1 above won't isolate leaky fuel injectors. Solution #2 above will, as it shuts down fuel pressure entirely.
Isolating the problem is the trick, and using a fuel cut switch or injector cut switch is just a workaround to help with engine flooding (the symptom), while not really fixing the problem (leaky injectors). HTH,
The trick about the fuel injector 'cutoff switch' is a good one; it allows the driver to control when the fuel injectors fire, and subsequently allows the driver to turn off fuel flow if the engine is believed to be flooded. Cranking on the dry engine then airs it out.
The fuel injectors will not fire if they don't see a trigger signal from the Leading Ignitor. The Leading Ignitor only fires when the engine is turning the distributor shaft. The Trigger Wire is a single white wire attached to the lower spade terminal on the front Ignitor at the driver's side strut tower. Install the switch on the white wire if you're so inclined, or just know to disconnect it when the engine is flooded. This will shut off the injector pulses, but you'll still have fuel pressure.
An alternate method is to install a fuel cut switch on the Fuel Pump fuse under the driver's side dashboard. This effectively shuts off all fuel flow, though the injectors will still fire, but won't have fuel pressure - so it effects the same end result.
Solution #1 above won't isolate leaky fuel injectors. Solution #2 above will, as it shuts down fuel pressure entirely.
Isolating the problem is the trick, and using a fuel cut switch or injector cut switch is just a workaround to help with engine flooding (the symptom), while not really fixing the problem (leaky injectors). HTH,
05-14-10, 10:55 AM
#14
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I 100% agree with the leaking injector theory.
I would also make sure you check to make sure that the injectors are receiving a pulse. On my GSL SE the injectors were 100% clean and balanced and not leaking, but there was a bad ground and it was keeping an injector wide open while the other one was still pulsing. I thiiink theres also a fuse on the ecu that controls that, and it may be worth checking. (Some one with more knowledge then I could confirm that)
I would also make sure you check to make sure that the injectors are receiving a pulse. On my GSL SE the injectors were 100% clean and balanced and not leaking, but there was a bad ground and it was keeping an injector wide open while the other one was still pulsing. I thiiink theres also a fuse on the ecu that controls that, and it may be worth checking. (Some one with more knowledge then I could confirm that)
05-14-10, 02:47 PM
#15
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
If injectors lose their ground, they don't fire.
This occasionally happens when the wiring harness gets old or corroded and the fuel injector bungs lose contact where they enter the harness. This usually results in the 'running on one rotor' symptom of SE's.
Borg-Warner replacements were only $7 each, and if you're going to do one - do both. Cheap insurance.
This occasionally happens when the wiring harness gets old or corroded and the fuel injector bungs lose contact where they enter the harness. This usually results in the 'running on one rotor' symptom of SE's.
Borg-Warner replacements were only $7 each, and if you're going to do one - do both. Cheap insurance.
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