Great Deal or Money Pit?
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Great Deal or Money Pit?
Hello all RX7ers.
Quick question and the reason I signed up on the forums (although depending on the answer I just might stick around).
I have the chance to purchase a rust free 1984 rx7/w 12a engine for 2900 Cdn(OBO).
My question is is it worth it worth it if the engine, with 155000 MILES, has never been rebuilt? What should I offer? Is the engine liable the cease up shortly after purchase?
thanks from the noob, erm, "new guy"
-Cheese
Quick question and the reason I signed up on the forums (although depending on the answer I just might stick around).
I have the chance to purchase a rust free 1984 rx7/w 12a engine for 2900 Cdn(OBO).
My question is is it worth it worth it if the engine, with 155000 MILES, has never been rebuilt? What should I offer? Is the engine liable the cease up shortly after purchase?
thanks from the noob, erm, "new guy"
-Cheese
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^SE's have a higher sale price to begin with
Rust free must be pretty rare up there... Have it undergo a compression test. If all the numbers are over 90psi, offer him 2000. Otherwise, rotarys generally don't sieze, they leak.
Rust free must be pretty rare up there... Have it undergo a compression test. If all the numbers are over 90psi, offer him 2000. Otherwise, rotarys generally don't sieze, they leak.
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
well if its rust free where you live the car is priceless, i say get it.. oh and im curious, is there lots of cheese where you live?mmmmmm i love cheese!
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#10
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I paid WAY more for mine, 136K when I bought it, rust free, aside from a little under the bins. Still runs nicely, although having some carb issues. If it runs well now and you keep the oil changed regularily, then theres not really any reason to think it will just seize on you. Do the usual checks to make sure the engine is still healthy. If it is, buy it. You won't regret it
The headlight washers work by pushing on the the headlight popup button on the side of the cluster. Push the opposite way than to make the lights come up. I believe mine don't work at all though.
The headlight washers work by pushing on the the headlight popup button on the side of the cluster. Push the opposite way than to make the lights come up. I believe mine don't work at all though.
#13
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I remember about 3 years ago, I bought a 99 Mustang V6 at an auction. The Car was an ontario car with 180,000kms. I paid $2000 to get it home and find it was completely rusted out underneath.
I later sold it for $2500 the same week.
However, Trucks are more expensive in ontario. My cousin used to buy trucks new/slightly used here, and bring them to ontario and make a profit.
I later sold it for $2500 the same week.
However, Trucks are more expensive in ontario. My cousin used to buy trucks new/slightly used here, and bring them to ontario and make a profit.
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Infos: I live in Saskatchewan.
I'm not sure what kind of response this is gonna get, but the alternative to this car is bringing in a 300ZX from Alberta - although I'm not sure what that's gonna cost me AFTER the fact.
On a related note, I'm wondering if I should show the seller this thread. He's a young guy as far as I can tell.
-Cheese
I'm not sure what kind of response this is gonna get, but the alternative to this car is bringing in a 300ZX from Alberta - although I'm not sure what that's gonna cost me AFTER the fact.
On a related note, I'm wondering if I should show the seller this thread. He's a young guy as far as I can tell.
-Cheese
#17
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if its rust free id buy the se7en because one it dosent have pistons and two inmo its a better looking car. my 1984 had about 140,000 miles on the engine when i bought it and still ran great only paid 1500 and already had dellorto carb came with fiberglass hood whail tale spoiler and side+rear louvers from second owners ex wife if it wasnt for minor dings and rust would be mint . but if other owner kept up wit maintnence id buy.
Last edited by Bptznumba1playa06@sbcglobal.ne; 07-09-07 at 09:09 PM.
#18
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I have to remember that CA$ are worth less than US$, but it does seem high, however, if they are that rare up there buy it, a clean 1st gen in Australia is worth $3K any day of the week.
Now, does it have disc brakes at the rear, if so it also has a LSD and that makes it worth a lot more IMHO. Do Canooks have the same model designations ie: GS. GSL, GSL-SE, I know Aussies are different.
Now, does it have disc brakes at the rear, if so it also has a LSD and that makes it worth a lot more IMHO. Do Canooks have the same model designations ie: GS. GSL, GSL-SE, I know Aussies are different.
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I have to remember that CA$ are worth less than US$, but it does seem high, however, if they are that rare up there buy it, a clean 1st gen in Australia is worth $3K any day of the week.
Now, does it have disc brakes at the rear, if so it also has a LSD and that makes it worth a lot more IMHO. Do Canooks have the same model designations ie: GS. GSL, GSL-SE, I know Aussies are different.
Now, does it have disc brakes at the rear, if so it also has a LSD and that makes it worth a lot more IMHO. Do Canooks have the same model designations ie: GS. GSL, GSL-SE, I know Aussies are different.
CAD isn't substantially off from USD anymore. $1 Canadian is almost 96 cents USD and rising.
#21
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I would look for a good appearance car, since mechanicals are generally easier/cheaper to fix. If the body is straight, sight lines are good, interior clean and original, the it's a good car.
IMO, a rotary engine should last at least 200k miles before rebuild, unless abused.
If you like. I'll sell you an excellent K3 Silver 85GSL (LSD, 12A, leather interior with only slight fade) with 83k miles, 34k of which I put on it, new brakes and plenty other new stuff, for $2000 US. No rust. This week only. I just have too many cars. Next month I ship it to one of the cities I visit regularly for my personal use.
IMO, a rotary engine should last at least 200k miles before rebuild, unless abused.
If you like. I'll sell you an excellent K3 Silver 85GSL (LSD, 12A, leather interior with only slight fade) with 83k miles, 34k of which I put on it, new brakes and plenty other new stuff, for $2000 US. No rust. This week only. I just have too many cars. Next month I ship it to one of the cities I visit regularly for my personal use.
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The car is a base model. Manual everything, but with an aftermarket fuel pump hanging below the rear bumper and a fuel pressure gauge just in front of the windshield on the outside.
The body is exceptionally rust free. Thinking of buying it as a shell, myself, and selling off the engine and exhaust bits.
The body is exceptionally rust free. Thinking of buying it as a shell, myself, and selling off the engine and exhaust bits.
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There are several in Saskatoon right now. That one would be among them, just needs an alternator and some other little fixups.
Because so many are taking off to the oilfields, or returning after having blown their cash, there are a lot of good, inexpensive cars in Saskatoon right now. $3k is close to the asking price for a '95 mustang, and I saw a '94 Volkswagen Golf (not RWD, but mint) go for $2k. There's a '93 Mustang for $2k as well, but it has a grey hood, black bumper, and white body.
Because so many are taking off to the oilfields, or returning after having blown their cash, there are a lot of good, inexpensive cars in Saskatoon right now. $3k is close to the asking price for a '95 mustang, and I saw a '94 Volkswagen Golf (not RWD, but mint) go for $2k. There's a '93 Mustang for $2k as well, but it has a grey hood, black bumper, and white body.
#25
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Hey Mr Cheese...
do not jump on the first car you see... it takes time to pick the correct one...
first you need to set YOUR OWN criteria of what you want... after all it is you who's gonna pay for it and it is you who is going to drive it.
Take for example:
Personally this is what I prefer:
1.EFI vehicles so I wanted the GSL-SE 84 or 85... i got an 85
2. Absolutely no modifications; most, but not all cars with mods are a bunch of headaches and a money pit. Sure there are mods that are not going to give you any problems and are mainly for reliability but that is another topic... so I looked for a car with no mods and I found one 100% stock.
3. I wanted a car without any body damage; no accidentents, no rust... so I looked for one that was garaged kept...
4. I did not care about the milage cause I was going to either rebuit completely or replace the engine. Lets be realistic here, our cars are over 20 years old ! but I looked for one with low milage... and i was lucky enough to find one with 83,000 miles.
check it out... https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/got-my-85-finally-649480/
It took me some time to find it but I knew exactly what i wanted. Also, this is my toy car, not my daily driver.
Now the question is; do you have your criteria?
do not jump on the first car you see... it takes time to pick the correct one...
first you need to set YOUR OWN criteria of what you want... after all it is you who's gonna pay for it and it is you who is going to drive it.
Take for example:
Personally this is what I prefer:
1.EFI vehicles so I wanted the GSL-SE 84 or 85... i got an 85
2. Absolutely no modifications; most, but not all cars with mods are a bunch of headaches and a money pit. Sure there are mods that are not going to give you any problems and are mainly for reliability but that is another topic... so I looked for a car with no mods and I found one 100% stock.
3. I wanted a car without any body damage; no accidentents, no rust... so I looked for one that was garaged kept...
4. I did not care about the milage cause I was going to either rebuit completely or replace the engine. Lets be realistic here, our cars are over 20 years old ! but I looked for one with low milage... and i was lucky enough to find one with 83,000 miles.
check it out... https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/got-my-85-finally-649480/
It took me some time to find it but I knew exactly what i wanted. Also, this is my toy car, not my daily driver.
Now the question is; do you have your criteria?
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