RickRx

I have a 89 mustang 8.8 that has been narrowed to fit a 4.5'' backspaced wheel, with second gen caliper brackets and 5 on 4.5'' lug pattern. I've been sort of installing it for the past 6 months because unlike what I thought it did not bolt right in. When it first arrived I got a couple buddies to help me put her in.

First unlucky mishap: No sway bar mounts. talked to a couple people including granny's. I was told know one runs a sway bar on the back. I thought I should decide that, mind you all the 8.8 I seen (dan/gonzz) have them. Granny's words ''would you like to send it back''

2) The 4 link rods that go from the rear to front fit a little loose no biggie. Went to install the shock/strut in the rear and the mount is to wide maybe 1/2-3/4 explains the loose fit of link rods. Call granny again '' yes we did that so you could install it in your second gen if you like '' (wanna send it back)


3) Since the mounts for the struts is wider it interferes with the e-brake cable and my re-speed rear caliper bracket. I can solve this by using the caliper without the re-speed bracket but then I need custom e-brake cables.

Of course its not centered sticks out a bit to the driver side. So I was sent some rods where I need to cut to length and attach my rod ends to center. No biggie.

4) Anyone with this setup if possible to look where the spring perch/cups are installed. It seems like mine were installed to far back and the spring does not level out..

I am in no way bashing granny's I love the product. I just have the worst luck when it comes to shipping anything not oem mazda.

What I am trying to do is help out others who might order to be VERY specific when purchasing. Only for a first gen/ please sir I need a sway bar-maybe etc....

Also I've never logged a project on here and thought I would give it a try. I read someone say it helps them get it done and god knows I can use the help.

Can someone tell me how to make the pictures big in the screen instead of clicking on them to enlarge? I would like to get off the wall and onto the dance floor with you guys that inspire me and keep the sawsall out my hands........



Sorry for the looooonnnnnnng post

RickRx

Looks like its going back to washington....

Rogue_Wulff

Kinda looks like the upper arms are too long. I'd check that against a stock arm, and make sure the arms aren't the issue.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

To quote the Beastie Boys: "Man, that's some funky ****"

The lower to upper spring angle is all wrong. It's not just pinion angle but looks like the 4 links are too long. Like by two inches.

The upper links still use the stock rx7 body mounts which = still too short and it'll bind but if you wanna drag race I think it'll be okay since the rear doesn't squat too much.

Can't tell from pics but will that watts link bolt hit the rear shock? Not to mention is the whole rear end positioned too far rearward?

"Did that so you can install that in a 2nd gen????" WTH???

Not centered = not well designed = not cool. Sounds like watts link schenannigans but then again the stock watts link is a POS and needs to be redesigned anyways..........

No sway bar mounting..... I REALLY LIKED the Suspension Techniques larger front and rear bars on the street. Made it handle tight but I can tell you on the road race track it sure snap-oversteered. At least let the buyer install a bar of their choice including stocker. But again if this setup is designed by and for drag racing then you don't need no rear bar.

I wouldn't drive it like that at all.

RickRx

RickRx

I am using all stock parts. And don't want to drag race the car. It's my luck thats all hey whats another bunch of money twice. Because I know when I call tomorrow it's going to be my fault.

Oh and when I load the suspension it jumps back up at me. I can't find a pic of the bolt you refer to but I bet it hits. I just hope granny's doesn't give me the finger after I spent damn near 2k

Hades12

Send them the photos and talk it out. It is possible it got welded wrong.

Also check all your bars, they bend very easly.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

With that many mistakes in the rearend mod, I'd demand my money back, no ifs ands or buts. All at Granny's expense.

Since that probably won't happen, address each issue one at a time.

I too run ST sway bars front and rear, very happy with them. Salvage the sway bar brackets from another rear end. Don't recall if it's the S3 or SE lower control arms that are 20 mm longer than the earlier versions. You could have a custom set of uppers and lowers made from DOM tubing and adjustable heim joints. When a diff sits off-center, it's usually due to the 4 link and watts links being tightened down while while the body is still on jack stands. Jack the car up, loosen watts links and 4 links, lower the body, then torque to specs.

Another option to concider is toss the watts and 4-link and convert the rear suspension to a tri-link and panhard bar.

RickRx

trochoid I know it was not the best thing to but there are no nuts just the bolts, so it can't be that.

what do you mean by adress each issue one at a time?

I am out of money so I can't afford a suspension geometry change right now.

hmmm I am using -se lower arms, but if you look at it 20mm would not do it justice shortened or lengthened.

Also the way its sitting if you were to put a drive shaft on it would angle through the car. And only the upper and lower links will go on not the middle 2. They are slanted (shown in pic) you are right it was done wrong my guess is maybe the new guy or it was set up for a second gen.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear about the troubles Rick.

Looking at the pics it certainly looks like everything was clocked wrong before welding.

Pinion angle is up
Watts center pivot is angled up
Spring pocket is angled back

Each of these point to the arm pickup points being clocked 20 degrees or so forward when welded.

I would suggest they send a call tag for it to be picked up and fixed. If you still have the shock mount problem when you get it back let me know. I can make up some spacers for you FOC.


-billy

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Is it time for Respeed to build an 8.8 rear for the FB????

MaX PoWeR

iTrader: (2)

how about a panhard bar/ tri-link set up....

RickRx

Trochoid and Billy know their stuff.....Thanks guys I appreciate the help

I emailed him the pictures and called this was his response:

The problem is that the upper brackets were installed using the wrong jig.
The version you have is one we designed for drag racing in stock suspension
classes, which has a different instant center (upper brackets are rotated
forward/upward on the housing for a raised rear pivot location) and requires
shorter upper links. The pinion angle will be way off if the standard upper
links are used.

Possible choices to remedy the problem...
...send you another housing with the correct upper bracket location for the
stock upper links and sway bar brackets
...send you a set of shorter upper links (converts the rear to the drag race
version for stock suspension classes)

Grant..


Totally not what I expected. Since I don't drag race he's gonna send me another housing free no shipping nothing. Said he's going to bump me up ahead and get all my problems fixed. Should have another here in a good 2 weeks also to keep the other if I decide to drag.

I was trying to stop cussing so much but you gotta ******* love this guy. I've been on cloud 9 all day grinning from ear to ear.

Not a good thing that this happened, But all that matter's to me is some good ol' customer satisfaction. I am a very proud man to have a front end from Billy-respeed and a rear from Grant- Grannyspeed shop..

Both companies I've spent my last on and would do it all over again......Thanks

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Glad it all worked out.

katorx7

Glad it worked out for you.

I have purchased the following items from Grant of Granny's Speed Shop.

Basic SBC kit
Driveshaft
Mazda Alternator Bracket
Sway Bar Spacers
Racing Headers
Complete Percy's Speed Glass Lexan winshield kit
Ford 8.8 rear end conversion with adjustable heim ends

Everything arrived in a timely manner (about 2-3 weeks)

Only part that didn't fit properly was the Mazda alternator bracket. One call to Grant and he advised I can drill out an existing hole on the Mazda bracket. No problem/easy fix, fits perfect!!

Everything else fit perfectly.

Grant was always available for technical advice from installing anything, parts selection, engine and suspension tuning, fuel, electrical and body system modifications and driving techniques etc... anything to help get the best results for my project. Even on a weekend when I was nearing critical proceedures during my installation.

If a part that didn't work needed to be exchanged he sent it ASAP. For example my Ford rear end was narrowed as much as possible and needed a shorter watts link than the one used for their standard width rear end. Grant sent me the new/shorter one - got it in 3 days.

Grant also gave me a new driveshaft when I converted to the Ford rear end setup at a significantly reduced price (I sent him my old used one back after the new one came in for exchange so I can keep driving my car).

I couldn't be any happier.

Keep in mind that each part is hand/custom made and he won't rush production to keep up with above normal demands.
Grant produces high quality custom made parts that are well engineered, light, durable and cost effective. I'm glad he has done all the hard work for me with his products and even happier that they are very reasonable. Custom shop prices in Las Vegas can run up to $200.00 an hour. If Grant's products were not available I wouldn't have done my project.

I now have about 100+ (1/4 mile) runs on Grants products without any problems.

I never anticipated I would be running 10.954@129.72 all motor (light burnout, footbrake 2000rpm, 2100ft elevation) , 17psi in the tires, suspension not even dialed in yet and drive anywhere in town. Should be a 10.7 or better in there somewhere.

Couldn't have done it without Grant !!
I'm grateful Grant shares his racing experience in a wide variety of venues with a strong background in sprint car racing (1200 lb car w/ 800 hp).

If you can't get ahold of Grant he is busy in the shop. Sometimes he is extremely swamped with orders.
Even after over a year since my last purchase from Grant, he still gives me his time for technical advice and offers any needed parts to support my project to get the best results.

Good luck on your project.

RickRx

Got the housing in today with all the brackets and locations I wanted. Great people over at Grannys accepted the mistake and took care of it. Thats how you do business.













Thanks guys for the help now to swap over the internals, wish me luck.

nick812

Thats better than good customer service.

djessence

but is it right this time?

good to hear customer service still exists in a couple of the companies still providing parts for our relics

RickRx

Tell me about it. I highly recommend them and got no attitude or run around. I still feel comfortable and welcome to call and ask questions if I have any. Pinching myself to make sure its not a dream I really got what I payed for

RickRx

Looks right but we will see. And the problem was a different setup all together. I am confident in grannys that having the correct build sheet will equal the correct product.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Hey man, put some feedback in the good guy / bad guy section (or whatever they're calling it now). Mistakes happen, and it's how a company corrects mistakes that really says a lot about their character. Make sure the next guy looking for a rear end will come across your thread.

RickRx

Thinking about leaving the drag one complete and dress the housing. anyone know of a good shop in the bayarea to put a new carrier, axles, and gears in this housing?