Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I just want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something here. My Racing Beat lines have these black rubber sleeves on them, and then these little metal ferrules. I'm assuming that the black sleeves are on there to protect the brake lines in areas where rubbing will occur? Also, what are the little ferrules for? There are a couple of them on each brake line and they just slide around on there for no reason. They say "Earl's 57" on them. Are they supposed to be crimped onto the ends? Did Racing Beat forget something? Do I just ignore them? Help please!



Thanks,
Jamie

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

The picture was taking forever but the little aluminum clips are probably just some identifiers for earl's and the rubber sleeve is the same but it will wear off. Actually your chassis needs protection from these lines not the other way around. The braided lines will wear through the metal in your car if giving enough time. We usually put rubber hose like fuel line with zip ties where we know it will rub.

MtotheIKEo

it's just brand labels, they don't need to be crimped or anything

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

thats metal collar thing isnt that used for holding the line in the clips on the body/strut tube. just a wild guess sorry i couldnt be more help.

ukcodger

Surely there must not be any rubbing of the brake lines under any circumstances. They must be fully supported to be completely clear of everything. Rubbing would be a test fail in UK.
The front lines should have in- line metal nipples about a third of the way up the line from the caliper end. These secure through the front strut bracket with a spring clip.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Right you are guys. There are large fittings in the middle of the brake lines where they attach to the strut tubes, just like the stock lines. My confusion came from the little sliders that are on the brake lines. I couldn't find a use for them, so I figured it had to be purely cosmetic. That appears to be the case. Thanks for the peace of mind.

Jamie

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

make sure you throw some pics our way when you get them in! i'm ordering a set this week from RB and would love to know how the setup went.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I'll be sure to. I've got the rear suspension on Rosie done and I'm down to finishing up the front. I've got all the parts I need ordered, I just have to do some cleanup and prep work before installing everything. I'm also waiting on the front sway bar from Respeed, which should be awesome. All in all I think it's going to turn out great. I'll be sure to put some pictures up before I drive the car and get everything dirty.

Jamie

Kentetsu

I got my lines from Respeed and they were very straightforward to install. No experience with the RB stuff. Glad you got it figured out man.

April 26th in Fort Wayne Indiana, there will be a Solo class on Saturday and a race on Sunday. $40.00 covers the whole weekend and dinner to boot. Any chance I'll see you there?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Well, I don't think I'll be participating that soon, but I would love to come and check it out. Where at in Fort Wayne? I'd love to come and check out your car if you are going to be participating. Shoot, I'd even help you get her ready if you needed some extra hands during the day. But sadly I don't think ol' Rosie will be sorted out enough at that point yet. She'll definitely be on the road this summer, but I want to make sure that I've got everything squared away nicely before I take place in any events.

Jamie

djessence

It is related and dont wanna start a new thread. How did you detach the old brake lines from the hardline? I cant get mine off and dont wanna break my hardline. Tried all forms of lubricant to try and unstick it.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Take the flat spring clips off of the hard lines. These are the ones that sit on the inner fenders in the engine bay and hold the brake lines to the sheet metal on the car. I usually take them off with a good pair of needlenose pliers. After that you are going to need two metric flare wrenches for the brake lines. You need a 10mm for the hard line and a 17mm for the soft line. Don't try doing this with a regular open end wrench. You will round off the brake lines and never get them apart. Pull on the brake line so that it comes down inside the wheel well. This way you can access both the 10mm and 17mm portions of the fitting and the same time, from the same location. Otherwise you'll have one arm in the engine bay and one arm in the wheel well. And that's going to make things darn near impossible unless you've got monkey arms like me. Even so, put a flare wrench on each part of the fitting (10mm and 17mm) and give it everything you've got. Be careful when it breaks loose that you don't bust a knuckle. This is how I got my old ones off.

After I broke the hard and soft lines apart, I removed the brake calipers and put them in a vise. This made is super easy to get the soft lines out of the calipers. Just put the caliper in the bench vise and use your 17mm flare wrench to break those connections loose. Other than that I don't have much advice besides use a lot of penetrating oil. Try some Kroil if you can get your hands on it. It comes in an orange can and says, "Kroil. The oil that kreeps." It makes PB Blaster look like water in comparison.

Good luck,
Jamie

ukcodger

Yep, as above, 2 flare spanners,10mm and 17mm, are needed to do the job properly without ruining the brake lines.

Kentetsu

Hammy, here's the link to the event:

http://www.myautoevents.com/pls/mae/...sevent_id=8695