Rutnick

Got a LSD today! It is from a loaded 1985 GSL. Took the whole rear assembly for $68! I left the watts linkage behind. It is the same as my 1980 watts right? If not, I can get it later.

Dang, that was one sweet 1985. Leather and power steering. Got the glass sunroof too!

Can't wait till spring! That's when I am installing it. I checked for LSD and it was. It will be double sweet to have rear discs.

Gregs

bad *** man! go back to the junkyard and ****** the e-brake cable for me!

why wait till the spring to install the rearend
its takes like 2 hours max

peace


-greg

FD Racer

yeah it will fit your 80 but you need the 85 driveshaft and the cables that Gregs wants, oh and you need the different brake lines, but I'd get those new

Gregs

SHHHHHHHH!!!!

i didnt need new brake lines when i put my gsl-se rearedn in my 81
i didnt even swap the master

they were the same, i compared the 2 same numbers on them and all

and YES my back breaks work like a charm

i just dont have an Ebrake till i get the cables

stanacho

Got the driveshaft. It only had one brakeline going to the system. Just get the one? It had lines running to each caliper on the axle but one line going to the master.

RXRACER85

sweet yeah it only takes 2-2 1/2 hours for the install go for it!

stanacho

order them from VB?

stanacho

want to go through the rear before I install it. Nothing is as frustrating as installing something just to fix it.

MosesX605

Yeah, you definiately need the driveshaft and the e-brake cables. You will also need to fabricate an adaptor to mate the lines on the axle to the lines on your car. I cannabalized one of the ends off of my old axle and re-flared a short piece of hard brake line with the old end on it. Voila, an adaptor from coarse to fine thread.

rotaryconcepts

can't you just take the flange from your old rear and put it on the lsd.

hornbm

since you have an 80 which is a SA, you need the brake lines. The brake lines on the SA were a different thread pitch than the FB.

rotary_neubie

Man that seems like a good deal, wish I could find that price. I am pretty new still with these rx7s, what does SA stand for?

Gregs

chassis code for 79-80 rex's

its always reminded me of SAvanna like the older rex's

-greg

Rx7carl

Great score! Enjoy it.

Eville140

Which yard didi you get it from? Was it up here in Evansville?

If I knew you where looking for one, I have one out of my 84 GSL in the garage. Worked great when I took it out of the car, even have the short cables. It would of already been pulled and you could of had it for $50

I listed it here a while back but didn't get any takers. So if you know anybody close to use that needs one. Tell them to get a hold of me.

Later
Randy

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

i'd check that lsd before installing it. make sure it's still tight. odds are any factory 1st gen lsd that has not been rebuilt yet is loose and should be rebuilt.

Rutnick

It is already off the car. What would the proceedure to check it require? I know how to do it on the car.

Rutnick

Yep! Got it in Evansville. Stripped that puppy down. I still need a couple of parts off of it so I claim dibs to it.

Does yours include a driveshaft for $50? I can always use two of the rears because who knows how many RX7s I will collect.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Here's some useful info I grabbed off the net from a Pro7 racer. The first paragraph goes over how to check slip torque with diff out of car. Oh, and lots of Pro7 folks are setting up their diffs to 125 ft/lb slip torque these days; which is too tight for street. 90-100 would be more streetable.

Oh, and the conversation started when I asked why my diff is sooo tight it hops and creaks when making slow speed tight turns like in the paddock. My diff was setup with 175+ slip torque when I bought it used. Didn't know it was that tight but boy does that ***** put the power to the ground!!!!

"If not, here's how I set up mine.
First I made two tools for setting up the diff. Starting with two old
axles, I cut them off and weld a 1/2 drive socket to the end of one, and a
crossbar to the other. Now I can stick them into each end of a differential,
and turn one end with a torque wrench while holding the other end in a vise.
With this you can measure what the ls slips at without putting it completely
back in the car.
Next I measure where it slips. I have an assortment of worn clutch
discs, and some of the thick ones from Mazda Comp. I measure their thickness
with dial calipers, and its just a process of trial and error until you get
the combination of discs that gives you the correct torque/slip. One note, it
doesn't take much to get a significant change in torque, .001 thicker disc
can change torque a lot. It usually takes me several tries to get the slip
where I want it, so the tools I made are important. My guess would be that
whoever put your diff together just put a set of the thick discs in. When I
did that with mine, I wound up with a locker. It took a combination of
standard and oversize discs to get the right torque/slip.
Of course, to do this you have to disassemble the rear end. Make sure
the Timken bearings stay matched up, and note how the thrust washers are
oriented. It's always a good idea to make a sketch to keep everything
oriented correctly.
When you reassemble, you will have to set the preload on the Timken
bearings, and the gearlash between the ring and pinion. Here's my scientific
technique:
I tighten the timken bearing nuts until I feel the bearings begin to get
slightly tight, then back off just enough to free them. Next I rotate both
bearing nuts equal amounts until I can just barely feel a tick between the
ring and pinion gears. I usually go through the process several times until I
am confident with the result.
I don't claim to be a differential expert, this is the first one I have
ever setup, but it's been in the car for two seasons with no trouble. I set
mine at about 90lbs torque/slip. I' check it periodically, and it hasn't
required readjustment yet.
If anybody knows a better/easier way to set one up, I'm all ears."

dirty86

yay!

RXMacSeven

Good info, good attitude drivefast.

Rutnick

wow! That was a great writeup! Mongo is going to have to be careful. I should have measured it before I took it off the car. It sounds like I am going to have to basically take the whole thing apart now.

jayroc

Damn! IT WAS YOU! YOU TOOK IT!
lol I saw that one too, missed the glass sunroof, though or it'd be mine.

Nick-7

your a genius rotary concepts. (i do'nt feel like signing under sweetege, so i'll use my bros). anyway all you have too do is swap the flange from an 81 and put it on an 84 or 85 because the 80 & 81's universals are replaceable. we did this on my bros car so we now have replaceable universals on and 84 se. If you need anything else tell me. (MY name is sweetege)(so do'nt e-mail nick.