Got bacl from the junk yard...SCORE!
#26
Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Ok, I want to do SS lines, with AN fittings...But I dont know much about them (the fittings and -AN anything, lol). I was gonna buy the adapters from Mazda Trix, but I dont think I understand everything I need. So Im gonna try and clarify this...
On the engine, there are two outlets or whatever you want to call them. One is 16mm (front) and one is 18mm (rear). On the cooler, there are two inlets, both 16mm (right?). I want to get SS lines made with -AN fittings on them. MazdaTrix says I need three of the 16mm adapters, and one of the 18mm adapters. Why do I need three 16mm adapters? Do I have to take the fittings out of the cooler and replace them with the adapters?
This is how I think it goes...PLEASE correct me if Im wrong.
On the front cover, I put one (16mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the rear housing I put one (18mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the cooler, I replace both fittings with the two (16mm) adapters (do I need washers here?).
Then, I have SS lines made of the right length with -10 fittings on both ends.
Then, I get two -10 90 degree fittings to make the turn from the engine to the cooler.
I put one -10 90 degree fitting on the front cover, and one on the rear housing.
Then I attach one end of each line to each 90 degree fitting, and the other ends of the lines to the cooler.
Sound right?
~T.J.
Ok, I want to do SS lines, with AN fittings...But I dont know much about them (the fittings and -AN anything, lol). I was gonna buy the adapters from Mazda Trix, but I dont think I understand everything I need. So Im gonna try and clarify this...
On the engine, there are two outlets or whatever you want to call them. One is 16mm (front) and one is 18mm (rear). On the cooler, there are two inlets, both 16mm (right?). I want to get SS lines made with -AN fittings on them. MazdaTrix says I need three of the 16mm adapters, and one of the 18mm adapters. Why do I need three 16mm adapters? Do I have to take the fittings out of the cooler and replace them with the adapters?
This is how I think it goes...PLEASE correct me if Im wrong.
On the front cover, I put one (16mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the rear housing I put one (18mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the cooler, I replace both fittings with the two (16mm) adapters (do I need washers here?).
Then, I have SS lines made of the right length with -10 fittings on both ends.
Then, I get two -10 90 degree fittings to make the turn from the engine to the cooler.
I put one -10 90 degree fitting on the front cover, and one on the rear housing.
Then I attach one end of each line to each 90 degree fitting, and the other ends of the lines to the cooler.
Sound right?
~T.J.
Like Rotortuner said, it would be a hell of a lot easier to go with the pre-fab ss lines (for a FC), if they fit.
Or, if you already have the stock lines, it may be cheaper to buy a small radiator, and turn around and sell yours.
#27
Im not trying to make my own, I just want to tell them what I want made...Which is a SS line X inches long, with a -10 female fitting on both ends, and another SS line X inches long with a -10 female fitting on both ends. Then, I can buy the adapters from somewhere, and the 90 degree fittings from somewhere. Then, just put it all together and Im done .
So my parts list should include:
(3) 16mm/-10AN adapters
(1) 18mm/-10AN adapter
(3) 16mm sealing washers
(1) 18mm sealing washer
(2) -10AN 90 degree elbows (female on one side, male on the other)
(2) Custom length lines with female -10AN fittings on each end
~T.J.
So my parts list should include:
(3) 16mm/-10AN adapters
(1) 18mm/-10AN adapter
(3) 16mm sealing washers
(1) 18mm sealing washer
(2) -10AN 90 degree elbows (female on one side, male on the other)
(2) Custom length lines with female -10AN fittings on each end
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 11-23-02 at 06:21 AM.
#28
Ok, new thought...I could just have 90 degree fittings put on the two ends, that way I wouldnt have to buy 90 degree fittings seperatly..
So now I just need the adapters, the washers, and the hoses made. Im good to go, I understand it now .
~T.J.
So now I just need the adapters, the washers, and the hoses made. Im good to go, I understand it now .
~T.J.
#29
Ok TJ. As was said, you ask for an "AN dash Ten". The dash indicates dia. in sixteenths of an inch. So -10 is 10/16 or 5/8. ( Hoses are measured in ID and tubing in OD). ABsolutely have the hoses made with the elbow fittings. The metric-AN adapters are male unions, which means you'll have a male end on the engine/cooler. The hoses will be female B-nuts. A 90* adapter that is fem on one end and male on the other is next to impossible to find. I didnt like the Mazdartix lines for one reason, one of them (I forget which) doesnt have an elbow, its just a straight fitting and the bend is done by the hose. In avaition thats a BIG . It puts extra stress on the hose as it's always under a bending load, especially when you gun the engine and it twists in the mounts. I ended up with a 90* in the rear and a 45* in the front,came out very nice. I can snap a pic and send it to you if you want, however on the cooler I have a 2nd gen one so that will be different. Personally, as an aircraft mechanic, making AN hoses is really pretty easy TJ. It just takes good common mechanical ability. I bought the parts from summit and it came out cheaper. The fittings come with instructions right out of the aircraft standards handbook. Follow them and you wont have a problem. WHen you need to cut an ss hose heres a tip. Wrap the hose with tape, draw your cut line, and then cut. Don't cut it like your sawing wood, you want to cut towards the center of the hose always. If you dont, as you saw through the lower half you'll bend the wires out and away from the hose as you cut. Thats what gives people trouble cause when they get done the have half the wires splayed out and away from the hose, and they are tough to bend back. Then when you try to put the collar on the hose, the wires want to stay sticking out. SO position the hose, cut through the hose, then rotate the hose and cut towards the center, continue till you have cut all the way around. A hacksaw works fine, so does a cutoff wheel, but that has a tendancy to smoke the rubber and make it stinky LOL.
#30
TJ, think for a minute. How do you know whats in that cooler? It could have metal in it......... Remove the plug and clean the t-stat and flush the inside of the cooler good,real, real ,real good. Oh and good thinking to pressure ck the cooler. DOnt forget to do the same with your hoses, whether premade or not. ANd be careful installing the big plug and the fittings on the cooler. The tanks are soft aluminum and if you overtighten them you'll cause a crack in the boss.
Oh, you can try purple cleaner (like castrol super clean), or NAPA sells a spray bottle of aluminum brightener, that might get your paint off.
Oh, you can try purple cleaner (like castrol super clean), or NAPA sells a spray bottle of aluminum brightener, that might get your paint off.
#31
I didnt like the Mazdartix lines for one reason, one of them (I forget which) doesnt have an elbow, its just a straight fitting and the bend is done by the hose.
Absolutely have the hoses made with the elbow fittings.
Anyway, I plan on going to a shop or two tomorrow (if any are open) and trying to see if they can give me a price to have the hoses made. Im also gonna try and make mounts and mount the cooler tomorrow so I can get an idea of how long of hoses I need. This project is definatly gonna drag on as I have no money to have the hoses made, lol.
Personally, as an aircraft mechanic, making AN hoses is really pretty easy TJ. It just takes good common mechanical ability. I bought the parts from summit and it came out cheaper. The fittings come with instructions right out of the aircraft standards handbook. Follow them and you wont have a problem.
Anyway, thanks for all the help .
#32
Originally posted by Rx7carl
TJ, think for a minute. How do you know whats in that cooler? It could have metal in it......... Remove the plug and clean the t-stat and flush the inside of the cooler good,real, real ,real good. Oh and good thinking to pressure ck the cooler. DOnt forget to do the same with your hoses, whether premade or not. ANd be careful installing the big plug and the fittings on the cooler. The tanks are soft aluminum and if you overtighten them you'll cause a crack in the boss.
Oh, you can try purple cleaner (like castrol super clean), or NAPA sells a spray bottle of aluminum brightener, that might get your paint off.
TJ, think for a minute. How do you know whats in that cooler? It could have metal in it......... Remove the plug and clean the t-stat and flush the inside of the cooler good,real, real ,real good. Oh and good thinking to pressure ck the cooler. DOnt forget to do the same with your hoses, whether premade or not. ANd be careful installing the big plug and the fittings on the cooler. The tanks are soft aluminum and if you overtighten them you'll cause a crack in the boss.
Oh, you can try purple cleaner (like castrol super clean), or NAPA sells a spray bottle of aluminum brightener, that might get your paint off.
~T.J.
#33
Don't worry about the swivel, it's like the end of a garden hose where is screws into the spigot. Also the nice ones summit sells can even be swiveled after it's tightened! Way cool!
A cheap alternative if you have no $$$$. Cut off the crimped sleeve from the stock hoses, then remove the hoses. IIRC the stock fittings are barbed, so you can but some apporipriate hose, and use a couple of hose clamps to secure it. The you only have to buy some hose and clamps for now.
No, they are not crimped, that makes the ends re-useable. If the hose ever fails, you can disassemble it and put in new hose. The red part (sleeve) screws onto the hose. Then the elbow screws into the sleeve.
A cheap alternative if you have no $$$$. Cut off the crimped sleeve from the stock hoses, then remove the hoses. IIRC the stock fittings are barbed, so you can but some apporipriate hose, and use a couple of hose clamps to secure it. The you only have to buy some hose and clamps for now.
No, they are not crimped, that makes the ends re-useable. If the hose ever fails, you can disassemble it and put in new hose. The red part (sleeve) screws onto the hose. Then the elbow screws into the sleeve.
#34
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Question on AN type fittings.
What are they? Are they like a flare nut type connection or are they like a quick disconnect like on shop air tools? How do they work? What is their advantage over other types of connectors?
What are they? Are they like a flare nut type connection or are they like a quick disconnect like on shop air tools? How do they work? What is their advantage over other types of connectors?
#36
Originally posted by Pele
Question on AN type fittings.
What are they? Are they like a flare nut type connection or are they like a quick disconnect like on shop air tools? How do they work? What is their advantage over other types of connectors?
Question on AN type fittings.
What are they? Are they like a flare nut type connection or are they like a quick disconnect like on shop air tools? How do they work? What is their advantage over other types of connectors?
#39
Last edited by Directfreak; 11-23-02 at 10:26 PM.
#40
Originally posted by Felix Wankel
There is no need to replace or cap any of the water lines. 5 minutes with a hacksaw fixes both of them fine.
There is no need to replace or cap any of the water lines. 5 minutes with a hacksaw fixes both of them fine.
#41
God, u guys are gonna make me....... Ok, another tutorial, hows that sound? The AN mystery .... solved at last. Or something like that. I work with it everyday,for the last 20 years or so, so to me and the guys at work it's old hat, but maybe something you guys need to know. Or at least know what your talking about.
#42
Originally posted by 82transam
Got any pics of the line that comes out of the engine on the driver side? Did 79-82 cars have a line that came straight out or did it make a bend? The reason I ask is because if it just comes straight out I could just cut the T off and use a 82 heater hose sinse it would fit perfectly.
Got any pics of the line that comes out of the engine on the driver side? Did 79-82 cars have a line that came straight out or did it make a bend? The reason I ask is because if it just comes straight out I could just cut the T off and use a 82 heater hose sinse it would fit perfectly.
#43
Originally posted by Rx7carl
God, u guys are gonna make me....... Ok, another tutorial, hows that sound? The AN mystery .... solved at last. Or something like that. I work with it everyday,for the last 20 years or so, so to me and the guys at work it's old hat, but maybe something you guys need to know. Or at least know what your talking about.
God, u guys are gonna make me....... Ok, another tutorial, hows that sound? The AN mystery .... solved at last. Or something like that. I work with it everyday,for the last 20 years or so, so to me and the guys at work it's old hat, but maybe something you guys need to know. Or at least know what your talking about.
#44
Well, I figured out what you meant, Rx7Carl. I cut the crimp part of the connector off the hoses, and kept the barbed fitting that goes inside it. So now, I plan on getting two lengths of SS line (or even just oil/heat resistant rubber hose), and then putting a couple screw clamps on each end of the barbed fittings. So then, afte I save up some more money, I can get the AN fittings on there.
One more question about the AN fittings...Are you saying that they are just screw together type things? Or do you have to crimp anything? If you could send pictures to tjay31584@hotmail.com , that would be great. Thanks.
~T.J.
PS - I know I dont need that adapter looking thing thats sitting up there, its just what was attached to the line that went to the front cover cause when I took the cooler off at the yard. That came undone rather than the line from the adapter. Oh well
One more question about the AN fittings...Are you saying that they are just screw together type things? Or do you have to crimp anything? If you could send pictures to tjay31584@hotmail.com , that would be great. Thanks.
~T.J.
PS - I know I dont need that adapter looking thing thats sitting up there, its just what was attached to the line that went to the front cover cause when I took the cooler off at the yard. That came undone rather than the line from the adapter. Oh well
#45
Wait...I think I got it...You have the outter "collar" (red) that goes on the hose first, and the you have a barbed fitting (blue)that goes inside the hose just like the stock ones. Then the red screws down tight to the blue piece which crushes it all together? Is that right? If thats right, Im making my own lines .
~T.J.
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 11-24-02 at 12:32 AM.
#46
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Neither. A pic is worth 1000 words. If you really must know, gimme your email addy and I'll send you pics.
Neither. A pic is worth 1000 words. If you really must know, gimme your email addy and I'll send you pics.
#50
Yeah, thats what I was saying. Thats how it came apart on the yard car, lol. Im going with -AN fittings so mine has to come out of the front cover anyway so I can put the adapters in .
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I learned something new here. Thanks guys .
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I learned something new here. Thanks guys .