Well, I pulled the oil cooler from the SA because the FC didnt have the engine or cooler (damn). The cooler was in damn good shape. Only like 5 bent fins (clogged with gunk, but none really bent), and no signs of the cooler leaking. It would have been perfect, but my dumb *** dropped a wrench on top of it and dinged it. Oh well, no major damage, just a dent. So I got the cooler, lines, bolts, and filter pedistol (with gaskets). I figured that was enough for now as I didnt wanna get more parts than I could pay for. Well I got to the register and he charged me $6.50 for the cooler, plus tax. So for $7 and some change, I got all of it . He didnt charge me for the lines (normally $2.50 each) or the filter pedistol. So Im gonna go back tomorrow and grab whatever I didnt get that I will need. Anyone wanna clue me in as to what else I will need? Water lines or anything?

~T.J.

PS - As usuall, I will take pics for you guys before and after I clean it all up, I just gotta run right now, I just wanted to tell you my cool find .

PPS - I noticed a new silver RX there today, it hasnt been put out yet, but thenguy said it will be in a couple days. Its in good shape, nice straight body, semi clean interior (black), all 4 matching wheels, unbroken glass. Im gonna go get a closer look when I go back again for the intercooler Im gonna pick up foir when I do my turbo setup .

 

You are one lucky person!!

 

WOW!!!

Thats AWESOME!!!

GOOD FIND!!!


*coughcoughcoughSIGcoughcough*

peace!

 

Nice score TJ . You'll just need to cap off the unused water ports. They sell caps for that purpose, but I'm leery of them. They look like big vacuum caps, I dont think they last. Just run an extra heater hose from port to port. Thats what I'm going to do with mine.

 

Fill me in what gen is an sa and and fc? I'm lost with this ****. I know years and body styles but no codes. I got an 85 gsl and I need a front mount oil cooler. Could I get one from a secound gen? Will the 13b oil cooler fittings fit into a 12a. Anybody know the answer? I dont care about placement, I'm talking the parts that threads into the motor. I got the 79 /3 core rad already I just need to oil cooler. THe bigger the better!

 

SA's are 79/80 while FC's are are second gens.
good find TJ, don't forget to grab the hard water line.
rx7carl: your right those caps are ****, my friend used one when doing this swap and it blew out. Just take an old hose and plug it with a bolt, that works fine.

 

Yea I ran it at Roebling this weekend and was thinking about it the whole time. I just know its gonna puke. Im putting a hose in for next season.

will, I believe the fittings match (18mm&16mm) but hoses might not be the right length (too short).

 

Well, I just got back from my uncles shop. We cleaned it up a little, and pressure tested it up to 90PSI with no leaks whatsoever. Im stoked . I did a few soakings of degreaser and oil eater, and then hit it with a brush about 12 times before I could even begin to see through the fins. I ended up busting out the pressure washer and blowing it out with that bad boy. Theres still some paint left that I want to get off, and theres still some paint wedged in the fins, but Im gonna hit it again. Im shooting for the solid aluminum look . Anyway, here are the pics .

~T.J.

 

Nice work TJ!
You might want to get the metal water pipe that runs from the firewall to the lower radiator hose. As Rx7Carl mentioned, you need to cap off the water lines that the POS cooler was using. I also advise against the use of the rubber caps....they do not last long, and if they go, they could cost you your motor The metal pipe is the same as your current one, but with only one inlet on the firewall side.

 

Oh yeah...Anyone have any tips for getting the remaining paint off of it? Like I said, Ive hit it with engine degreaser, oil eater, and everything else under the sun...

~T.J.

 

Oh and when you cleaned it, did you remove the thermostat? When its closed, as it should of been while you were cleaning it, it simply bypasses the entire cooler area and just flows in and out. What I'm getting at is....There might be some nasty oil stuck in there.

 

Theres a 79 there, it has a gauge cluster, looks to be good. I didnt notice the stereo surroud...And It has the carb, dont know how good it is, or if its complete, but its mostly there. I could take some pics if you want...Post here, PM or IM me...I can find out how much it would be from them, and then I could just have you send me the money to buy them, and then I can ship them to you .

~T.J.

 

You know, I didnt even think about it...Is that what that bolt looking thing is on the bottom of the drivers side tank? Im talking it back tomorrow, maybe Ill pump some oil eater through there...I did however drain a good amount of oil out of it as it was in just the one tank, lol.

Also, should I use that thermostat when I install it, or should I just let it flow through there and replace it with a bolt or some kinda plug? I know its supposed to help your car warm up and whatnot, but I have an electric fan that doesnt come on until its up to temp, so my car warms up pretty fast anyway.

~T.J.

 

Use the thermostat. I inquired about that when I was doing my conversion, the oil needs to warm up as fast as possible. I also wondered about the condition of the thermostat and if they went bad. The guys at mazdatrix never heard of any going bad, so I left it at that.

 

what junkyard i live in shoreline maybe we could hook up for a junkyard day.......

 

There is no need to replace or cap any of the water lines. 5 minutes with a hacksaw fixes both of them fine.

 

Great, thanks. Ill pull it out and clean out the cooler to get all the old oil out, and then Ill just pop it back in there. Also, here are some pics of the filter stand .

~T.J.

 

How do you cut the pipe I mentioned going to the lower rad?

 

Oh yeah, and would the thermostat prevent the air I tested it with from flowing through the cooler? Should I retest it with a bolt there instead so that the air pressurizes the whole cooler?

~T.J.

 

I cut the T part off either one and ran new rubber hose (I don't know if the stock rubber ones work or not, mine were too far gone to try to reuse).

 

Not a bad idea. But probably not needed.

 

I got ya now... a longer elbow hose coming off the firewall would work.

 

Im just gonna take the hard water line, it would probably only cost me $0.50 at this place . Then, for the other side, I will just run a new heater hose. That should take care of everything. Then all I need is the lines made .

~T.J.

 

Ok, I want to do SS lines, with AN fittings...But I dont know much about them (the fittings and -AN anything, lol). I was gonna buy the adapters from Mazda Trix, but I dont think I understand everything I need. So Im gonna try and clarify this...

On the engine, there are two outlets or whatever you want to call them. One is 16mm (front) and one is 18mm (rear). On the cooler, there are two inlets, both 16mm (right?). I want to get SS lines made with -AN fittings on them. MazdaTrix says I need three of the 16mm adapters, and one of the 18mm adapters. Why do I need three 16mm adapters? Do I have to take the fittings out of the cooler and replace them with the adapters?

This is how I think it goes...PLEASE correct me if Im wrong.

On the front cover, I put one (16mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the rear housing I put one (18mm) adapter and sealing washer on.
On the cooler, I replace both fittings with the two (16mm) adapters (do I need washers here?).
Then, I have SS lines made of the right length with -10 fittings on both ends.
Then, I get two -10 90 degree fittings to make the turn from the engine to the cooler.
I put one -10 90 degree fitting on the front cover, and one on the rear housing.
Then I attach one end of each line to each 90 degree fitting, and the other ends of the lines to the cooler.

Sound right?

~T.J.

PS - Now try not to laugh too hard, but how do I tell someone I want "-AN" fittings/lines? Do I pronounce "A" "N"? Whats with the "-" in front of everything? Is it saying theres something in front of it? Like if I say I have an '85 -SE, everyone knows I mean "GSL-SE"...So is the "-AN" short for something that I dont know? Are you following me? Ive only seen "-AN" in print, Ive never heard anyone say it, lol.

 

AN is short for Army Navy. But just say A N. the - is pronounced dash. You get the stuff in differenct diameters. example: -6,-8, -10 etc. -10 is bigger than -6. -6 is about 3/8 inch. You can make all your own lines. But i would recomend just paying the $110 for the premade racing beat ones. they look really good premade. If you do them your self its can be REALLY hard to put those ends on the hose once you have cut the hose to the right leangth. I just made a fuel line the other night and i stabbed my self multiple times with SS slivvers and finally got the ends on. You have to use a dremel tool and trimm all the ss wires back into some electrical tape and its really not enjoyable. You might save some money doing it your seld but it still wont be cheap. that SS line is expensive. and the fittings can be lie $20 a peice for the ends since the are 90 degree ones. Good luck though.

CJG