getting ready to run autocross
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getting ready to run autocross
there is a local meet here next week i am gonna run just for fun anything you think i should do before i run or anything you can think of that i need to run?
also anyidea what class thye will stick me in?
jr
also anyidea what class thye will stick me in?
jr
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Get a helmet with the approopriate snell rating required by your club.
make sure you can afford to replace your new cyclone tires if you wreck 'em
Don't hurt your face from all that grinning
make sure you can afford to replace your new cyclone tires if you wreck 'em
Don't hurt your face from all that grinning
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my friend is gonna let me borrow his helmet for drag racing his crotch rocket which should work and it fits nicley. as for the flush did it while i was replacing the rear end even changed the training fluid. those cycloses are cheap and i have a set of some other tires iw ill run on the track they are super stick i just don't drive on them every day. they those kumhos that are like 130 a peice i can get 3 cyclones for that so i don't ever drive on them.
jr and i have camera with a 540 pic limit so i should have lots it should be fun.
jr
jr and i have camera with a 540 pic limit so i should have lots it should be fun.
jr
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Might drop by to see the grin on your face....
But if you COULD end up down there with an air tank sitting and a good tire pressure gauge, it might pay off.
You might be able to compensate for your lack of power (cough cough ha ha ) and stockish suspension and make it drive how you want to if you get the tire pressures just right.
When I still had stock width wheels my 205/60/13 street tires liked ~28psi in the back and ~24 in the front, but every combo is different!
Try to find someone running quick times and ride with them, keep your mouth shut, or let them drive your car with you as a passenger.
Be smooth with your movements. Don't worry much about downshifting, either, might end up leaving it in 2nd. Learning how to hold "the line" and braking points is the first 70% of the game in my opinion.
Good luck!
But if you COULD end up down there with an air tank sitting and a good tire pressure gauge, it might pay off.
You might be able to compensate for your lack of power (cough cough ha ha ) and stockish suspension and make it drive how you want to if you get the tire pressures just right.
When I still had stock width wheels my 205/60/13 street tires liked ~28psi in the back and ~24 in the front, but every combo is different!
Try to find someone running quick times and ride with them, keep your mouth shut, or let them drive your car with you as a passenger.
Be smooth with your movements. Don't worry much about downshifting, either, might end up leaving it in 2nd. Learning how to hold "the line" and braking points is the first 70% of the game in my opinion.
Good luck!
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Dont try to be the fastest, just be smooth and learn what the cones mean and how autocrossing works!
Get everything out of the car....and I mean everything!!! You will find stuff that you lost in your car from years back.
Either run a full tank of fuel(heavy) or an empty tank(dont starve the motor). Dont run anything in between, the sloshing of the fuel will throw the rear end around. If you have a 84-85 GSL or SE you can almost run the fuel dry, there is a resevour in the tank!!!
Get everything out of the car....and I mean everything!!! You will find stuff that you lost in your car from years back.
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Either run a full tank of fuel(heavy) or an empty tank(dont starve the motor). Dont run anything in between, the sloshing of the fuel will throw the rear end around. If you have a 84-85 GSL or SE you can almost run the fuel dry, there is a resevour in the tank!!!
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I'd recommend against running almost dry with a fuel-injected car like the SE. Maybe faster times, sure, but you're risking sucking air into the fuel system which is a big PITA with fuel-injected vehicles.
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Originally posted by jr69187
my friend is gonna let me borrow his helmet for drag racing his crotch rocket which should work and it fits nicley. as for the flush did it while i was replacing the rear end even changed the training fluid. those cycloses are cheap and i have a set of some other tires iw ill run on the track they are super stick i just don't drive on them every day. they those kumhos that are like 130 a peice i can get 3 cyclones for that so i don't ever drive on them.
jr and i have camera with a 540 pic limit so i should have lots it should be fun.
jr
my friend is gonna let me borrow his helmet for drag racing his crotch rocket which should work and it fits nicley. as for the flush did it while i was replacing the rear end even changed the training fluid. those cycloses are cheap and i have a set of some other tires iw ill run on the track they are super stick i just don't drive on them every day. they those kumhos that are like 130 a peice i can get 3 cyclones for that so i don't ever drive on them.
jr and i have camera with a 540 pic limit so i should have lots it should be fun.
jr
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I think that's pretty dumb, IMHO. I mean, a bike helmet is designed for head meeting pavement at high velocities, being sanded by the rough surface of the road as the rider skids and flops, etc.
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
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Originally posted by Manntis
I'd recommend against running almost dry with a fuel-injected car like the SE. Maybe faster times, sure, but you're risking sucking air into the fuel system which is a big PITA with fuel-injected vehicles.
I'd recommend against running almost dry with a fuel-injected car like the SE. Maybe faster times, sure, but you're risking sucking air into the fuel system which is a big PITA with fuel-injected vehicles.
You are right!!! We raced one until it did start sucking air, we had 1.5 gal. left in the tank!!! I recommend running 3 gal.
If you open the SE tank up(which also was in the 84-85 GSL) you can see what appears to be a "coffee" can in the bottom of the tank and it has slotts in the bottom to allow the fuel to "get into" the can. Your fuel pick up is in the center of this "coffee" can and requires very little fuel.
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Originally posted by Manntis
I think that's pretty dumb, IMHO. I mean, a bike helmet is designed for head meeting pavement at high velocities, being sanded by the rough surface of the road as the rider skids and flops, etc.
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
I think that's pretty dumb, IMHO. I mean, a bike helmet is designed for head meeting pavement at high velocities, being sanded by the rough surface of the road as the rider skids and flops, etc.
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
I agree!!!!!!! I faught this argument at a race for a buddy of mine and lost
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Also, "they say"(whos they, I dont know?) every 10lbs. adds 1/10th of a sec. to your time. A couple years ago CP class had the top 14 cars at nationals all with in 100th of a sec.!!!!
I know, this really wont matter for the first time out
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by the way, nationals is going on right now....
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well they said it has to have a snell of 95. this helmet has it marked on the back. He is gonna let me have it since he got rid of the croch rocket. it is a tdk and the scca said it was fine.
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Originally posted by Manntis
I think that's pretty dumb, IMHO. I mean, a bike helmet is designed for head meeting pavement at high velocities, being sanded by the rough surface of the road as the rider skids and flops, etc.
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
I think that's pretty dumb, IMHO. I mean, a bike helmet is designed for head meeting pavement at high velocities, being sanded by the rough surface of the road as the rider skids and flops, etc.
In-car, the helmet protects you from bonking your head sideways against the roof headliner or tubular metal, both of which are smooth and both of which are moving at the same speed as the noggin in question.
Bike brain buckets have higher demands placed on them so with the exception of the neck braces required in high speed (like Indy, definately not autocross) racing I don't get why bike helmets aren't considered 'good enough'. Am I overlooking something?
1- They are designed to handle different loads and stresses, hence the diff between a SA95 and a M95 helmet.
2- Some motorcycle helmets ARE approved. Many of the helmets out there on the market are ****. They are for show only and wont protect you no matter how hard your head is!
3- INSURANCE. We must abide by the rules set forth. They are there for everyones saftey. If you dont like rules, go race where there arent any. We have a hard enough time as it is keeping insurance, we must act like responsible ADULTS.
FWIW, here in CFR SCCA land, we have loaner helmets availible FOC. Call your chairman or equiptment chief, theyd know for sure. Also M90 or better helmets ARE approved for SCCA SOLO II
Last edited by Rx7carl; 09-12-02 at 07:13 PM.
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I agree with your points about insurance and rules.
IMHO motorcycle helmets should be as closely regulated as any safety equipment, and the 'show only' ones taken off the market.
In Canada the medical system is socialized and one person's right to go without seeatbelt or proper helmet is superceeded by everyone else's right to not have to pay the dumbass's medical bills out of their taxes.
IMHO motorcycle helmets should be as closely regulated as any safety equipment, and the 'show only' ones taken off the market.
In Canada the medical system is socialized and one person's right to go without seeatbelt or proper helmet is superceeded by everyone else's right to not have to pay the dumbass's medical bills out of their taxes.
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they do have loaners but this helmet will work just fine. thanks everyone can't wait to go gotta wax the car and clean up under the hood and move the oil cooler up a little highers. so saturday i will be busy.
jr
jr
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Originally posted by CrazyJoe12a
With the ported motor you will be in a prepared class. Not sure if it's still EP or not.
Anyway, go and have fun! 1st gens are great for AutoXing!
With the ported motor you will be in a prepared class. Not sure if it's still EP or not.
Anyway, go and have fun! 1st gens are great for AutoXing!
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F prepared allows almost everything except forced induction, fiberglass doors, you can run peripheral port with a weight penalty. I think you can run 16x12s with a weight penalty....I may be wrong on that one.
Your first time out, most guys wont car what class your run. I would run in the novice class until you win
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#19
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Part 1-Before the race
Ok, some of this has been covered but I'm talkin off the top of my head so here goes.
RULE # 1- Have Fun!!!!!!!!
This is 95% mental- 5% physical. 70% Driver 30% car.
Get a good nights sleep the night before and have all your stuff packed and ready to go. And no
the night before. You need to be mentally sharp all day long. Get there early. Offer to help setup, you'll meet some of the great people who bust their *** to put these events on, and they'll appreciate it tremendously. They'll me more apt to help you and give you valuable advice/pointers.
Walk the course, Walk the course, Walk the course, Walk the course, and did I mention .....Walk the course
. You need to have it memorized so you can drive it and not navigate it as you go. The easiest thing to do out there is to get lost. It happens to all of us from time to time. I've seen multi time nat'l champs get lost
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RULE # 1- Have Fun!!!!!!!!
This is 95% mental- 5% physical. 70% Driver 30% car.
Get a good nights sleep the night before and have all your stuff packed and ready to go. And no
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Walk the course, Walk the course, Walk the course, Walk the course, and did I mention .....Walk the course
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#20
Airflow is my life
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Part 2-The car
Bring a good running car. A good tune up, and check over of the car is a good idea. Having a small mechanical failure ruin your day is no fun.
Dont worry about having hi-temp brake fluid
your brakes wont get that hot. Just bleed them and make sure they work well cause you WILL be using them ALOT
Clean the car out, get any loose junk out. Clean the windows. Move your rearview mirrors to point at the ground so your not tempted to look back and see if you knocked over that cone!
Remove your spare and jack and your floormats at the event.
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Dont worry about having hi-temp brake fluid
![bss](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/icon_bs.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Clean the car out, get any loose junk out. Clean the windows. Move your rearview mirrors to point at the ground so your not tempted to look back and see if you knocked over that cone!
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#21
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Part 3- personal stuff
Wear comfortable clothes that you don't mind getting a little dirty. Wear comfortable shoes, you will be on your feet all day.
Stuff to bring. Poncho or umbrella, sunscreen, hat, folding chair, cooler w/drinks
, snacks/ food depending on where your racing, paper towels, air tank or one of those 12v compressors, tire press gauge.
![werd](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/werd.gif)
Stuff to bring. Poncho or umbrella, sunscreen, hat, folding chair, cooler w/drinks
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#22
difference in auto and motorcycle helmets. auto helmets are designed and rated for multiple impacts, i.e. a rollover. motorcycle helmets are designed for one solid impact. their protection decreases majorly after that one impact. of course any helmet that has been in an impact needs to be trashed. i found this out after i bought a motocross helmet that i wanted to use for rallying. scca solo2 requires a snell 95 or newer. that is all. it can be open faced, motocross, street bike full faced, or auto. it just has to have the snell 95 or newer rating.
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yes, 3 things
1- They are designed to handle different loads and stresses, hence the diff between a SA95 and a M95 helmet.
2- Some motorcycle helmets ARE approved. Many of the helmets out there on the market are ****. They are for show only and wont protect you no matter how hard your head is!
3- INSURANCE. We must abide by the rules set forth. They are there for everyones saftey. If you dont like rules, go race where there arent any. We have a hard enough time as it is keeping insurance, we must act like responsible ADULTS.
FWIW, here in CFR SCCA land, we have loaner helmets availible FOC. Call your chairman or equiptment chief, theyd know for sure. Also M90 or better helmets ARE approved for SCCA SOLO II
Yes, 3 things
1- They are designed to handle different loads and stresses, hence the diff between a SA95 and a M95 helmet.
2- Some motorcycle helmets ARE approved. Many of the helmets out there on the market are ****. They are for show only and wont protect you no matter how hard your head is!
3- INSURANCE. We must abide by the rules set forth. They are there for everyones saftey. If you dont like rules, go race where there arent any. We have a hard enough time as it is keeping insurance, we must act like responsible ADULTS.
FWIW, here in CFR SCCA land, we have loaner helmets availible FOC. Call your chairman or equiptment chief, theyd know for sure. Also M90 or better helmets ARE approved for SCCA SOLO II
#23
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thanks guys i will post some pics there are gonna be some nice 7 there but i think i am the only first gen. I am gonna be there to help setup and i may get a few fun runs before hand getting the pionters form some of the other guys. everything on the car is good i am gonna crank the fuel mixture back up and advance the timming a touch. I will chnage my wheels tonight. I will put on the limited wheels with my nice sport tires. I will also tear the stereo out and take all the tools and the spare out. It should be great fun.
jr
jr
#25
Hey,
Pick up OCTOBER'S Sport Compact Car Magazine.
It has an article on a 3rd Gen with the Twins running 11's, and more importantly,
on page 205 it has...
An article on Road Racing / Autocrossing.
The author likes his '79 RX-7, and there are some nice pictures of it and an RX-3.
Pick up OCTOBER'S Sport Compact Car Magazine.
It has an article on a 3rd Gen with the Twins running 11's, and more importantly,
on page 205 it has...
An article on Road Racing / Autocrossing.
The author likes his '79 RX-7, and there are some nice pictures of it and an RX-3.