I finished pulling the tank today in order to identify a very bad fuel leak, which was only present on right hand turns (assuming the tank was not full). Attached is a photo of what I found.

Now I am considering repair options. So far, all I can think of is either SealAll or J.B. Weld, and I think I'm leaning toward the J.B. Weld.

However, before I begin, I wanted to check with my buddies to see if anyone had any better ideas for repairing this.

And on a side note, my "sock" filter was found rolling around in the bottom of the tank. I had been wondering about that noise for the longest time. lol.

As always, thanks for your assistance.

 

FWIW, I fixed a debris puncture on the left rear lower corner of my tank once, with the JB Stik product. Once.

Gotta be at least a decade ago, possibly much longer; I think it was before I was married and that was 15 years back.

Still tight.

 

That's encouraging information. Thanks DD.

 

I *may* have a spare tank sitting at my grandparents house that I would sell to you real cheap. It came out of my old '82, and the PO had replaced it before I bought the car. Not sure if it's still there, or where it even would be. I'll PM you with my findings on my next trip that direction.

 

I had a big rust hole in one that I sealed with some fiberglass and good quality resin. Worked well! You might need to be careful which resin you use to make sure the gas will not affect it.

 

I'd have a radiator shop clean it out and then MIG or TIG it and reseal it.

 

The problem you have there is more than hole. If you can't replace the tank, then any fix you do should address the weaker thinning metal surrounding the actual holes. A sheet metal patch welded in would be the best thing aside from replacement. But if your angling for a cheaper "temporary" fix to leave permanently (LOL) Than epoxy style products like JB Weld are your best bet. Just keep in mind it's just exterior, and doesn't fix the inner metal.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. The interior of the tank is imaculate, which was pretty surprising. And the rest of the tank appears to be solid, but I'll know more once I clean it up.

I'm trying to get the car ready for DGRR, and I've got the motor and tranny out for a clutch job and flywheel upgrade. I've also got a bunch of other stuff to do. So, considering all of that, I'm looking for a quick fix that will get me through the race season. Next winter I'll consider trying to find something nicer to throw in, by that time I may even be ready for a fuel cell.

I should have time to finish cleaning the exterior up tomorrow and make the repair. I'll keep you guys posted on the results, and take some pics. That way, if it proves acceptable long term, the method I used will be well documented.

 

All I can offer is good luck. So...... good luck.

 

I have never done a car tank but I fix up old motorcycle. I use jb weld then I line the inside of the tank you can buy the stuff at most auto parts stores. You would need to patch the hole then etch the inside of the tank and let it dry then pour in the stuff get a good coat pour out extra stuff out of tank let it dry and your good to go. The cans have directions on them if you need the name of it I have some in garage.

 

New plan. I'm going to goop the entire area with Sealall, place rubber gasket material over an area larger than the repair (about 6"x6"), apply more sealall over that, then place a sheet metal patch on top of that, secured with sheet metal screws. Then, that entire area will be covered with a liberal coating of J.B. Weld.

I've already created and shaped the sheet metal patch. Tomorrow I'll pick up the gasket material and sheet metal screws, along with some more SealAll and J.B. Weld.

I'll take some pics for future reference. I think this is going to be about the most durable repair that I can make in my own garage.

 

I can give you a tank for free but you need to find someone to box it and ship it.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just clean it out, TIG weld a patch , and then seal it while your at it?

 

Keep in mind that JB WELD is not resistant to fuel.

I tried it inside a carb float bowl, to hold a float. It gradually dissolved away. Take it to a shop that repairs tanks, typically shops that also do radiators.

 

No matter what you do, you first need the tank cleaned, and by far the best place is a competent rad shop - mine here did a complete chemical dunk for $65. With rust like that there has GOT to be issues inside!
While your there I would urge you to at least ask what they'd charge to weld yours up. They do this stuff all the time. Why risk a home fix on something that is such a PITA to remove?

once home, no matter what you decide to do about the hole, I recommend getting POR15's fuel restoration kit:
http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Res...n/products/12/
Not only preps tank for sealer but includes the sealer to prevent continued/future "shedding" issues that old tanks invariably do with age that lead to all sorts of fuel issues. Been There!!

'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

I saw your post for the gas tank, if it holds a full tank, no holes or really weak spots then I'm interested. I have an 84 GS that won't hold more than a half tank. As far as finding someone to box and ship it I'm not sure how that works. Thanks!

-Alex Bourlotos

 

I have 3-4 tiny pinholes in my tank, under one of the straps. Current plan is JB water weld on the outside, and a resealing kit to provide an additional layer between the fuel and the JB. Will let you know if it holds out.

Chris

 

MARK we did this already we know seal all does not work!

Just get a fuel cell they make nice flat ones that would bolt up nice to a RX7.
Mazda trix has new ones for 975$ if i remeber right

 

Ken,

Check out the products at kbs. I used a kit to clean and seal a friend's tank on his GSL-SE. He had a bunch of pinhole leaks along the top of the tank and this sealed it right up.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com

Kent

 

Mel, thank you very much for the offer of the tank. But due to my time constraints, and trying to keep costs down so I can afford the trip to DGRR, I'll have to pass. Feel free to donate it to someone else in need.

As far as the repair goes, I think I have a good workable plan. I've already cut and shaped a sheet metal patch for it, and tonight I'll pick up the rest of the supplies.

Maninblack- The repair we attempted on your tank, sitting in my driveway, was half-assed to say the least. For my issue, I already have the tank pulled, cleaned, and ready for what I have in mind. I will not be relying on either the SealAll or the J.B. Weld to hold up. They will simply be used for "additional" sealing, which I shouldn't really need anyway.

I will be sandwiching a section of fuel safe rubber gasket between the tank and the sheetmetal patch. That alone should do the trick.

I took the wire wheel to the rest of the tank last night, and every other area is solid.

Although my usual standard on this type of thing is "do it once, do it right", I've decided to devise a repair method that anyone can do in their own garage, without special tools or a whole lot of money. With the parts for our cars becoming more rare by the minute, it won't be long before we have no choice other than to repair what we can. Hopefully the work I do on this repair will benefit others down the road.

I inspected the inside of the tank after I removed all of the removable plates, and there is not a trace of any deterioration. The factory lining is still intact, and gleamingly white.

I will take more pictures as I work through this repair. Thanks for all of your ideas and suggestions, and please don't be offended if I choose not to take some of the advice you have so genorously offered.

 

Thanks for the input Kent. The remainder of my tank is solid, I took everything right down to the bare metal last night. And the interior is in good shape to.

After cleaning up the area around the hole, I'm dealing with a hole about the size of a nickel. Once that is patched, the entire tank will be primered with a rust resistant type, painted with Rustoleum or something similar, and then will receive a few coats of rubberized undercoating (or maybe truck bed liner) to help prevent any future issues.

Is there any chance that you'll be making it to DGRR this year? I'd love to meet you in person.

 

They have gas tank repair kits. I work part time at a parts store. I used seal all a long time ago and it hardened up and crumbled after a year ago and began to leak again. Never used JB, but it's not fuel resistant.

 

Put in a lightweight fuel cell. You know you want to

BTW-its outrageous that they put such a large gas tank on the car. Maybe thats where they get the fabled 50/50 weight ratio. I'd much rather take less weight than more weight and a perfect balance.

 

That's the thing. My car is growing, and she will most likely, logically, be moving to a fuel cell soon or later. So I can afford to experiment a little bit. I want to repair the sob, and show that it can be done.

So, the input so far is that:

1. J.B. Weld worked great
2. J.B. Weld is not fuel resistant
3. Seal All is crap

Okay, crystal clear. Which is why I'm using a fuel safe rubber gasket clamped between my fuel tank and a metal patch as my 1st line of defense.

 

the first problem with using JB weld is that the area has to be clean bare metal for the stuff to adhere properly. this will be a big hurdle for you because in order to do that you will either have to sand blast or wire wheel the area. this will open up larger holes and further enhance your problem. at this point, i would take the tank to a shop and have new metal welded in... unless of course you're a good welder then go the cheap route and do it yourself. if not, i would source a new tank. i've got a good 81-83 fuel tank if you need it. its not perfect but it does not look like swiss cheese in areas.