You can see I had to make a custom bracket for my throttle cable, cause the previous owner broke the one that was on it, trying to take the manifold off when he smacked it with a dead blow hammer.

See where the OMP lines are hooked up.

This large vacuum nipple on the manifold must be for the brake booster.





See where the OMP lines are hooked up. My vacuum advance is hooked up to the smalled nipple on the manifold



Is this the extended arm you speak of? I hook a cable from the OMP to this?

 

Is that going to be enough carb for a 12a?

Anyhoo, yeah it looks like the OMP will hook up to the tab on the bottom of the throttle linkage in the second last picture.

If you can get away with not using the choke, do so. Most of the Weber guys here tell me that those chokes almost invariably leak and cause trouble. I'm not running mine on my dual DCD setup and the car starts nicely and is drivable after a minute or so of giving it some gas to keep the car running.

 

^^ I hope so. I know it runs good, looks and sound badass. Soo responsive and sensitive aswell.

I took it for a spin after I put silicone all over the diaphragm to keep it from leaking (it works,right now the carb and intake is all sealed by RTV, need to wait to get a re build kit and gaskets.) Should have waited, but I was too excited

And I forgot that I didnt have the brake booster vacuum line hooked up. Going down the hill on my road in 3rd, and I went to hit the brakes, and they were rock hard. scared the **** out a me.

I definitely need a new fuel pump, cause the car falls flat on its face after 5000 or so RPM due to lack of fuel, and I need to run a proper fuel line (right now I have 2 length joined by an adapter as seen in the pics)

I have some vids, but I cant upload em off my camera.

Do you think any local performance shop will be able to get me a rebuild kit, or am I gonna have to order on line?

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm
or
http://www.cbperformance.com/category.asp?categoryid=6

these guys know webers very well.

check out this one for your carb.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=508

i never rebuild or tuned a weber before but its all so interesting.

 

Silicone is not the best idea for sealing carburetors because the fuel eats away at it. Then the silicone gets clogged in the carb into the various jets and holes that make the carb work right. When you get a proper rebuild kit make sure to clean the carb extremely well and blow out passages with air to make sure they are clear.

 

^^ Yes I know, I only did it for ***** an giggles. I Need to order a intake manifold gasket from Mazda or a shop, and a rebuild kit for the carb and Ill be set.

 

The 40 IDF should be good on a stock port but if you rebuild look at getting a 48IDF

 

^^Thanks for the re assurance, everyone was telling me that it was gonna be to small.

 

No should fit nice but you may need to play with the jetting to get it best. FYI everyone rotary engineering sold kits using the 40IDF and intake for the stock port motor. I would have to assume this is a RE intake as I dont know of anyone else that made it for the 12A.

 

Yeah, Im kinda curious about it, cause I've never seen another 40IDF set up like this before. Im gonna assume that who ever had the carb before me dialed it in for the RX-7, cause they had this intake and an RB header (which I have know) so they must have known what they were doing.

 

How much PSI should I run on this thing, 3-4 psi?

 

3.5

 

and what does the stock pump put out? 2-3?

 

Yep...that looks like a CarTech mod IDF alright, but it kinda looks more like the 44IDF that they provided for the non turbo setup. Check the carb for confirmation. The 40IDF I have has the fuel input on the rear corner of the carb, but my 44IDF has it in the middle like the one in your picture. Also, the manifold shown in your other thread is definitely from the CarTech moulds (manifold on the right in the pics). There should be a place in the front top of the manifold to screw in a fitting off a motorcycle brake or clutch cable, This is connected to the omp on one end, and to the lower arm on the carb linkage rith a through bolt on the other. If you still have the pieces of the original throttle cable bracket, try to have the pieces welded back together, as it has the mount for all 3 cables incorporated (throttle, cruse, omp) and makes for a nice clean installation. Your omp feed is hooked up correctly in the pics above, the large nipple in the manifold outboard side is for the brake booster, and the nipple on the outboard side of the carb that you have capped off is for vacuum advance to the distributor. The nipple on the inboard side of the manifold is connected to the charcoal cannister and also provides vacuum for the cruise control (via a "T" in line) .
The 40 IDF will give you surprising performance with a stock port 12a, the 44 IDF is even better. Surprisingly enough, for boosted applications, the 40IDF will flow more and perform better as per Corky Bell, and when I changed from the 44 to the 40, this seemed to be the case.
You will need a new fuel pump and a fuel regulator for this setup, the stock pump will not provide enough fuel, even without boost. Get a return style regulator, and put it in the line before the carb.
CarTech designed their kits to incorporate the use of stock components so that amenities like AC and cruise control did not have to be done away with, and to look like a factory installation.
The choke cable will be a tight fit, but it will just barely reach far enough to be hooked up if necessary. I have never needed to use it on my car, but then I live in the deep south, and can count the number of really cold days on my fingers.
Good score by the way, you will enjoy the increased performance. Next thing you know you'll be tormenting the guy that you bought it from for the rest of the kit (exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate, intake plenium) so you can get some BOOST.

 

I'll check my RE catalogs from way back when and see if its one of theirs. Looks old enough.

 

It's a 40 IDF, hard to see, but it says 40



Is this for vacuum advanced?



Here's the holes for the omp cable housing (which I have) and also seen in the picture is a nipple off the intake manifold is this the one for the charcoal canister? I don't have a line coming off of my canister. Only 2 running into it.



Also is it safe to remove this sub zero fluid stuff, cause I know have no place to run the line that comes off of it, and Im storing my car in my garage during the winter.

 

Webers like 4 to 5 psi fuel pressure. A Carter fuel pump is a good choice.

 

The people who I bought it off of told me not to run over 4 psi, and it may blow up if i run it over 4 psi...is this true?

 

thats unheard of from my point of view. if anything u will flood your engine... right?

 

Yeah, too much fuel will just flood the carb, nothing more.

You can definately delete the sub-zero resevoir. It barely does anything in stock trim, let alone otherwise.

 

The nipple shown in pic#2 next to the throttle arm is not for the charcoal cannister..block it off with a rubber cap and tie wrap. The OMP hole in the manifold in pic #3 needs a 90 degree fitting to route the cable through. You should be able to find one at your local motorcycle shop. It is a chrome or black fitting that comes off the hand brake and routes the cable so it will not bind. You'll need to find one for a bike with cable actuated brakes or clutch, not the hydraulically operated ones. I think most dirt bikes still use this system. The manifold fitting in pic #3 is the one for the charcoal cannister line. Trace the lines from the cannister along the firewall, one line should terminate in a hard line (metal) connect the hose from that manifold fitting there. There is an identical fitting on the other side of the manifold for the brake booster.

 

congrats on getting it started, but please listen up before you cause yourself MANY more headaches...... starting the car the way you have that carb installed was a bad idea... and driving was just down right ignorant. You have NO hose clamp on your fuel line feeding into your carb!!!!!!! To boot you just mentioned that the accelerator pump was leaking ( so you put a band-aid on it) and you still drove it. We can all understand getting a little over-excited, but risking your life to go for a joy ride is completely irresponible. Raw fuel + Hot exhaust= Fire!!! There are many horror stories floating around this community of several RX's burning to the ground due to slight fuel leaks, hell, 2nd gens are notorious for having leaking pulsation dampners, leading to this exact problem.

The morale of this story is this... your 16, and your doing a great job by trying to learn how to modify/repair your car yourself, BUT if you're going to come on here and ask for advice and help from us guys that have been doing this awhile, then take head to what we say. We're trying to HELP you, and one of the best things you could learn early on is "Do it right the FIRST time...." If you don't it will always come back to bite you in the ***. Check your work, and then double check it, you were lucky nothing serious happened to you or your car this time, but next time you may not be so lucky.

 

Its not a Rotary Engineering supplied carb based on the old catalolgs I have. They only show a dual 36DCD and a 48IDF Weber setup.

 

Your right. Funny cause the fuel was leaking right down onto the exhaust manifold ...well thats not funny. But I didn't drive the car untill after I put the " band aid " on the leaky diaphragms which stopped the leak. and I only took it for a short drive on my street.

But your right, the car could have caught fire, but I don't think I would have died unless the car had exploded.


What can I say...I live life on the edge you ain't living unless your on the edge.

 

I have the 90 degree brake line fitting, but I cant put it on untill I take the manifold off again, cause there's no room to spin it around to thread it in.