I am not getting fuel to the carb. I have checked the fuel pump and it pumps very well; cleared the line from carb back to the pump and from pump to tank; Pressurized tank has free flow of fuel to pump; checked the fuel cutout relay and it is fine.

When I go to start the car, the pump clicks but does not run.

Any help appreciated.
Bill H

 

Need a bit more info from you (year, trim level, anything else that may be useful).

 

have you inspected the fuel filter for any obstructions?

 

Thanks for the heads up on required info when asking for help.

Checked the fuel filter and it was clear. Turned out to be the fuel pump! Even though it would pump something but not enough to get gas to the carb. Put a new pump on and now it trys to run but I suspect after sitting for so long, 5 yrs, the carb has to be rebuilt.

Thanks for your quick responses of help.

Bill H.

 

I found so much rust flake in my 1st. gens gas tank! I figure at least 3/4 of a cup of rusty goo. When your carb calls for fuel, the rust sucks up around the filter shutting off the flow to the pump. Once I drained the tank, it's pretty easy to pull the tank. Just a couple of bolts hold the straps up and lower the tank slowly. You can remove the hose to the filler and the fuel lines on top of the tank while suspended in the air. (I used my floor jack.) Once on the ground, remove the bung with the six screws and pull out the pick up tube. You might be amazed at the crap you find on the filter!
If your car has sat for ten years, no doubt it has lots of rust in it! Especially if the tank was nearly empty.

 

check you trailing ignition setup. make sure the wires and ignitor are in good working order. no signal coming from that part of the system, you wont get gas or a tach signal.
Oh, nvm, just reread to make sure i didny miss anything, and i did. Ill leave this for future ref.

 

If the car has sat that long a full carb rebuild is a given, along with flushing the fuel supply/ return lines and dropping the tank for cleaning and sealing. I used Red-Kote, by Damon products, on the last tank I refurbished. While the tank is out, now is the time to refurbish the exterior too. Remove any rust, loose undercoating, respray with an epoxy sealer. Instead of 3M spray undercoating I recoat the exterior with Dupli-Color truck bed liner, (over the bare metal parts, not the OEM undercoating). Most tanks that I've refurbished, I strip down to bare metal, removing all of the OEM undercoating. One would be suprised how much rust is hiding under the undercoat. Be sure to clean out the hard lines on the fuel pick up. I've seen them so packed with rust that the engine will idle, but as soon as any throttle was applied, the engine died. In tank filter at the end of the pickup tube is usually toast and I have yet to find a replacement. I usually leave them out.

When removing the fuel line pickup and fuel level sender, it's quite easy to strip the screws. Soak them with PB Blaster, then use an impact screw driver to break them loose. I never reuse the screws, instead they are replaced with new black anodized allen heads.

 

Scott, for reference, i just picked up a pickup tube filter for the SE tank i just bought from doc from the mazda dealer. it was justover 23 bucks out the door..i'm not sure if they are still available for the 12A tank, but can check if you need.

 

Interesting, never checked with the dealer since the nearest one to me is 50 miles away and doesn't even stock thermostats. They are pretty worthless in my opinion. All the intank filter does is prevent the pickup tube from getting clogged, until the screen fails, which most have by now.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

any time. it took the dealer a few days to get the part..but i wanted to make sure the thing was put together correctly. i have a copy of the parts catalogue on my computer so i just called the dealer with the part number and they were kind enough to order it. the dealer is about 30 mins away form where i live but its worth it since the parts guy gives me a 20% discount.