Evergreen1965

Just bought an '84 GSL SE with 69,000 original miles. Owner only put about 2k miles on the car in the last 10 years, so it's spent a lot of time sitting.

Starts great, idles great, lots of power and zip. I've driven it about 1k miles since purchasing it 3 weeks ago.

After about the first 500 miles, I began noticing the smell of raw gas, especially when the engine is cold, and not driving at highway speed. But, after the vehicle warmed up, the smell would dissipate.

Now, at the end of the second 500 miles, the smell is becoming more prevalent and, this morning, when it was cold, I started it up and let it sit idling in my driveway for about 10 minutes. When I backed out, I noticed a small puddle of what I so badly hoped was water (possibly condensation drip from the exhaust). I got out and investigated....and the "sniff test" indicated gasoline.

Puddle wasn't located directly under engine, but probably a foot aft of the engine (my best guess).

One more fact that might be important - I topped off the tank yesterday afternoon. Don't know if that's relevant or not.

So, here are two questions:
1) Is it safe to drive? I'm assuming not, which is killing me.
2) What are the most likely causes of this problem I should be looking for?

If it's not too complicated, I can tinker with it myself, but I'm no mechanic. So, if it's very involved, I'll probably have to find a shop to take it to.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not safe to drive.

fuel leak, is most likely to be the pulsation damper, however it is every easy to check.

under the hood by the air cleaner, is a yellow 2 pin connector that isn't plugged into anything. this is the fuel pump test connector. jump the two pins, and turn the key to on (but dont start the engine). this will turn the fuel pump on.

after that, just follow your nose...

Evergreen1965

Thank you, j9fd3s! Definitely the fuel pulsation damper. I obviously misjudged the location of the small fuel puddle relative to the engine compartment.

Anyway, I've already done some reading and now am faced with a choice: Replace the FPD or buy the much less expensive banjo bolt as a substitute?

Thoughts?

Cameron38

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't Mickey Mouse it. If you don't have the $ for a new one, maybe somebody on here can sell you a used one. You might post a "Wanted" add in the parts forum.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

just replace it. you bought a nice car, keep it a nice car. the original damper only lasted 30 years...

Evergreen1965

I agree with you, j9fd3s, getting a replacement damper is the better choice.

But now I'm going to fully reveal my stupidity - especially when it comes to mechanical issues. Here goes......if the banjo bolt screws in to replace/eliminate the FPD, isn't it essentially just "plugging the hole" where the FPD was? What is the function of the banjo bolt as opposed to a regular bolt?

Obviously, you who have posted replies to my thread have expertise, and I want to learn so I don't ask so many stupid questions in the future. Thanks for your help.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I did a banjo bolt on an S4 NA setup I installed in an 84 GSL last year. The FPD I was replacing already had the screw fall out into the translucent plastic cap but hadn't started to leak yet.

The GSL-SE has two of these FPDs. One at the rail and the other down at the fuel pump. I'd think with two of these potential fire hazards, you could delete one and not hurt anything.

I think the point of the FPD is to reduce the water hammer effect when the injectors open and close abruptly (which is what they do).

The system I installed in the 84 didn't have any FPDs because we went with an aftermarket MSD 2225 fuel pump. This didn't cause any issues. The banjo bolt was recommended by Karack on the forum (he changed his name recently and doesn't use the forum anymore).

Was any of this info helpful. All I know is if I was going to do another EFI install in a former carbed vehicle, I'd delete the FPD with a banjo bolt again. One less potential fire hazard in a somewhat high fuel pressure environment.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the pulsation damper actually is also a banjo bolt, so basically you're just replacing the banjo bolt damper, with a banjo bolt, you'll see when you get it apart.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the water hammer thing does happen, and when it does, fuel flow gets kind of random, and the car gets un-tuneable. its really a weird thing when it happens at an rpm where you can see it.

Evergreen1965

UPDATE!!
New part received and installed! No more fuel leak....no more fuel smell.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in on this thread and helped me out.

Cheers!