NanaimoRx-7

I'm getting ready to purchase some new goodies for the front end, but I would like to know what I can leave until later and what has to be done at the same time. I'm looking at getting the 1979-80 RX-7 Front Tokico Standard (HP) Strut Cartridge from Racing Beat and their spings too. Is there any problem doing the front now and the rear later? Should I invest in Polyurethane bushings from Mazdatrix for the entire front end? It was also suggested that I purchase new strut tops if I was going to be buying new struts,because they might be worn out, true, not true?

How hard is it to uprade a 1980 to accept the 81-85 struts? Are they noticebly better, and worth the effort?

P.S. I may still be an "Exhaust Leak", but unlike Node I keep my mouth shut when I don't have anything important to say....j/k I'm just looking for ways to spend my hard earned cash.

jsinrx7

Hey I have a 79' rex as well and I just got done doing some extensive suspention modifications. I went with the 79/80 tokico blues and the racing beat springs all around as well as Energy suspension bushings all around. WOW! what a difference! the ride is stiff but not harsh and the handling characteristics are awesome! If you can get ahold of some 81-85 struts, go for it and use the calipers as well because they are the non-slider-thingy ones and are alot better and easier to work on. I kept my 79 calipers because they are brand new (damn). If you don't already, get a 81-82 LSD disk rear end. This mod is the best mod for the money in my opinion.

RXcetera

Am I the only one on here that doesnt like the LSD rear end??

The easiest way to switch to 81-85 struts is to swap out the whole lower section of the suspension including brakes etc. The later setup allows the shock to have more travel before bottoming out and allows you to run Illuminas. Also, as Jsinrx7 said, you get rid of those old style brakes.

ladelberg

When I did all the suspension work on my 85, I decided that I may as well just do everything at once rather than repeatedly disassemble, reassemble. So I swapped out all the bushings (except end links I planned to swap the sway bar out later, never got to it though), ball joint on the control arm, struts, spring, tie rods and anything else I could find to change out. The control arm was a pain in the booty to get out for the bushing replacement but worth it. So was the torsion bar (I think that is what they called it) but again worth the effort. But yes, I would swap them out because the ones in there are probably not so wonderful after 20+ years.

I can't recall from where I purchased the ES bushings, don't think it was Mazdatrix though.

Anyway, my two cents worth, not much more value than that

SOLORX7

If you are swapping front strut tubes go with 84-85's they have bigger outer wheel bearings and live alot longer,plus better calipers.r.b. springs are the best for a street driver,eibach's are a little to hard for the street. Poly bushings are one of the best things you can do,but just do the lower link's in the rear and keep the uppers stock otherwise you will have problems with binding.Watt's link kit work's good too.

Gizmo

you may want to check that page, check to the bottom
http://serzy.rx-7.org/tips.htm

jsinrx7

I did a lot of research before I installed all poly bushings in my car, going against every thing that everyone told me, I installed the polys on all of the rear control links, upper and lower. It rides great! I have no binding problems at all. Energy Suspension has different "durometers" on their bushings meaning some are softer than others depending on where they go. The rear arm bushings are quite soft, while the sway bar bushings are firmer, it's balanced very well. I dont know if E.S. is the only company that does this, but they got things figured out nicely. Jason

NanaimoRx-7

So I woke up this morning in a puddle of drool after spending an entire night dreaming about new suspension, and I finally got down to crunching some numbers. To go with the Tokico HP 79/80 struts (which ones are the "blues", I haven't seen anywhere call them by this name) RB springs and poly bushings is going to cost 440US$....now due to an unfortunate Canadian dollar this comes somewhere in the neighbourhood of $700CAN. Does anyone know if I'm going to get raped at the border for another couple hundred dollars? What kind of border fees can I expect? I don't think I'll be upgrading my struts to 81-85 now, I also have new calipers, rotors and brakes. It'd be a shame to swap them out before torturing them in the fiery hell that they so rightly deserve....

I'd love to go Illuminas, but I think I'll save my money to create a balanced ride. The wish-list also contains a Yaw Carb, I found him before I found this site and I've wanted it for a long time, and a lightweight steel flywheel. Will it be woth my time to buy a 14 pound flywheel? Or should I just yank a 22 lb one of a later Rx? I'll do anything to get rid of this 30 lb monster that currently lives under my hood.... thanks for the replies...I really needed to hear some positives before I started dumping $$$ into my baby. -George

peejay

The '80 caliper will physically work on '81-85 12A hangers, the difference is that the thread pitch for the brake line is different. So you can put later 12A strut housings (good tip: get '84-85 stuff because they have much better wheel bearings - this requires the '84-85 rotors too) on your car and keep your '80 calipers. You can also put the later calipers on, you don't get any kind of gain, but you have to mess around with brake lines to get them to work... I think RB/Mazdatrix make stainless steel brake lines that adapt later calipers and rear axle lines to the original '80 body hardlines... easier and cheaper to just keep using the '80 calipers.

btw here's a good link to check out: http://www.mazspeed.com/brakeupgrades.htm It also has stuff on the differences between '79, '80, '81-83, and '84-85 suspensions as well as brakes, and what you need to get to upgrade an earlier car.

FuLLsMoKe

While on the topic of suspension...

How can I tell if my 85 has an aftermarket lowered front? I ask this because other stock 85 7s are slightly higher in the front than mine... I can notice that my front is lower than my rear (it had a previous owner)...

SOLORX7

I went with the E.S. bushings too .they still bind up but only if your autocrossing,on the street they work great. The E.S. rear bushings are a three piece per bush setup,softer on the outside with a firm center.E.S. is the only one that makes them that way,and the only ones I would use for the rear.If you go this way use LOTS of teflon grease or the squeeks will driveyou NUTS!

SOLORX7

I would go with the 14 lb but be carefull to get one matched to your motor there is changes in rotor weights and clutch disk size from year to year.Also keep in mind lighter is faster to axclerate but harder to get off the line smoothly

jr69187

well mine is torn down right no have done the shocks it is an 85 and i was wonder where and what busings i should got for the front end. Any links and ideas if you really wanna ready a problem read my post tittle bad thing.

dan

SOLORX7

For the front end go with the E.S. control arm kit ,tension rod and sway bar bushings and end links big change! p.s. sent you a post on bad thing as well.

Winnipeg85GSL

My front looks real low too. I was wondering about that. I need new struts soon the passenger rear is squeaking constantly.

SOLORX7

A low front end could be lots of things,lowering springs,bad struts ,soft strut mounts ,lower profile tires or non gasstruts+shocks they lift the car3/4 to 1inch.The way to check springs to see if they are not stock short of finding a makers tag on it is quite involved.But as we are both in WPG. I could have a look at it for you,just p.m. me

RXcetera

Old springs will also drop your car considerably. It's not uncommon to replace your old springs with shorter ones only to find that your car actually sits higher with the new springs.