Front Struts for 85 GSL-SE
11-04-19, 02:10 PM
#1
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Front Struts for 85 GSL-SE
Allo!
Does anyone know how/where I can lay my hands on a set of front strut assemblies (complete) for 85 GSL-SE. I really don't want to lower the car, and want to keep it as close to stock as possible. Driver front coil spring snapped at a traffic light last week. I have had no problem locating lowering springs and strut inserts, but I would really prefer to just bolt a new set in and be done with it. Coaxing inserts out doesn't sound like a lot of fun to me. If I have to, I will. Also don't want a car set up for autocross. I drive it on the street and don't want it to ride like a conestoga wagon. May as well do the rear shocks as well. Input appreciated. Thanks!
Does anyone know how/where I can lay my hands on a set of front strut assemblies (complete) for 85 GSL-SE. I really don't want to lower the car, and want to keep it as close to stock as possible. Driver front coil spring snapped at a traffic light last week. I have had no problem locating lowering springs and strut inserts, but I would really prefer to just bolt a new set in and be done with it. Coaxing inserts out doesn't sound like a lot of fun to me. If I have to, I will. Also don't want a car set up for autocross. I drive it on the street and don't want it to ride like a conestoga wagon. May as well do the rear shocks as well. Input appreciated. Thanks!
11-04-19, 04:44 PM
#6
You can find used assemblies around as aeenox mentioned, but those are almost always just pulled out of an original car and sold for parts. So you would be installing a set of 35 year old springs/shocks..... not really a step forward.
Removing the struts on the FB and installing a new set of shocks is not that bad. Considering you have a Cali car the top nut probably won't even be seized.
Rear shocks are a straightforward bolt in affair.
Good condition large bearings spindles are a hard to find part these days....!
Removing the struts on the FB and installing a new set of shocks is not that bad. Considering you have a Cali car the top nut probably won't even be seized.
Rear shocks are a straightforward bolt in affair.
Good condition large bearings spindles are a hard to find part these days....!
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11-05-19, 10:10 AM
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11-05-19, 10:30 AM
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11-05-19, 11:08 AM
#11
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Hey, OP - if one spring fractured and collapsed, aren't you wondering if there are weaknesses on the OTHER springs that will cause them to collapse soon, as well?
That's my first thought, is that if you live in a climate that corrodes steel springs or the car has been driven hard to the point that they break - then maybe you're in line to get a brand new SET of springs so you don't have to worry about this in the future; but that's just me thinking down the road.
Simply replacing one spring - which will be longer, as it's new - will result in that corner of the car sitting higher. A full set of Racing Beat springs (*or similar) would ensure the car sits level, likely about the same ride height as you'd have with 35y/o springs which have sagged ~1/4" - 1/2", and would also get you better feel and maybe better cornering performance, too.
Something to think about, anyway. It's not that much more work to do them all, as the rear axle springs can be changed just by jacking the car up and using a pry bar (lightly) to extend the axle downward enough to slide the old ones out and new ones in. It's a 10min job to do the rears. Wish it were so easy for the fronts, though!
That's my first thought, is that if you live in a climate that corrodes steel springs or the car has been driven hard to the point that they break - then maybe you're in line to get a brand new SET of springs so you don't have to worry about this in the future; but that's just me thinking down the road.
Simply replacing one spring - which will be longer, as it's new - will result in that corner of the car sitting higher. A full set of Racing Beat springs (*or similar) would ensure the car sits level, likely about the same ride height as you'd have with 35y/o springs which have sagged ~1/4" - 1/2", and would also get you better feel and maybe better cornering performance, too.
Something to think about, anyway. It's not that much more work to do them all, as the rear axle springs can be changed just by jacking the car up and using a pry bar (lightly) to extend the axle downward enough to slide the old ones out and new ones in. It's a 10min job to do the rears. Wish it were so easy for the fronts, though!
11-06-19, 06:57 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Hey, OP - if one spring fractured and collapsed, aren't you wondering if there are weaknesses on the OTHER springs that will cause them to collapse soon, as well?
That's my first thought, is that if you live in a climate that corrodes steel springs or the car has been driven hard to the point that they break - then maybe you're in line to get a brand new SET of springs so you don't have to worry about this in the future; but that's just me thinking down the road.
Simply replacing one spring - which will be longer, as it's new - will result in that corner of the car sitting higher. A full set of Racing Beat springs (*or similar) would ensure the car sits level, likely about the same ride height as you'd have with 35y/o springs which have sagged ~1/4" - 1/2", and would also get you better feel and maybe better cornering performance, too.
Something to think about, anyway. It's not that much more work to do them all, as the rear axle springs can be changed just by jacking the car up and using a pry bar (lightly) to extend the axle downward enough to slide the old ones out and new ones in. It's a 10min job to do the rears. Wish it were so easy for the fronts, though!
That's my first thought, is that if you live in a climate that corrodes steel springs or the car has been driven hard to the point that they break - then maybe you're in line to get a brand new SET of springs so you don't have to worry about this in the future; but that's just me thinking down the road.
Simply replacing one spring - which will be longer, as it's new - will result in that corner of the car sitting higher. A full set of Racing Beat springs (*or similar) would ensure the car sits level, likely about the same ride height as you'd have with 35y/o springs which have sagged ~1/4" - 1/2", and would also get you better feel and maybe better cornering performance, too.
Something to think about, anyway. It's not that much more work to do them all, as the rear axle springs can be changed just by jacking the car up and using a pry bar (lightly) to extend the axle downward enough to slide the old ones out and new ones in. It's a 10min job to do the rears. Wish it were so easy for the fronts, though!
11-06-19, 09:34 PM
#13
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
When you replace the front strut inserts, dont forget to add a few ounces of regular engine oil to the strut tube before you put the cartridge in. This works as a heat exchange medium to let the strut housing act as a thermal sink instead of the cartridge heating up with nowhere for that heat to go. Failing to do so results in ruined strut cartridges in short order. Should be covered in your instructions that come with them. You could probably also use gear oil or even ATF, as it serves the same purpose,
11-06-19, 09:47 PM
#14
I, too, ordered front inserts, rear shocks, and springs all around for my '85 GSL/SE. It's going to be a winter father/son "bonding" project. If you were to let us know if you run into any issues (or just how it went), it would be greatly appreciated.
11-12-19, 12:37 PM
#15
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Make sure you loosen the nut that holds the strut insert BEFORE removing the strut from the car. I used a pipe wrench. A new one comes with the insert anyway. Impact works fine on the top nut, no issues, just make sure you have the spring compressed. Also, prep and shoot a bit of PB Blaster on the 2 17mm nuts that hold the strut on the lower control arm. Use a wire brush to clean the threads of the bolt that poke out of the top. Mine broke pretty easy, no heat required. If you do use a torch, be very careful of the lower ball joint. Again, all nuts/bolts came loose pretty easily, as my car has lead a pampered life in the desert. Use a good 6 point 17mm box-end wrench on the 2 bolts on the bottom. Socket won't work and you don't want to round them off. So far, it has gone very smoothly....just waiting on the springs from MAZDATRIX. If I run into anything else, I will post about it. It's really not that bad.
12-01-19, 01:07 PM
#16
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All suspension work is done!. Rides like a dream once again..I didn't really encounter any issues at all. I used ATF as a heat sink for the inserts on the front struts. Of note, I used a jack handle to pry the lower control arm down using the little u shaped piece of metal welded to it (Used as a steering stop).Rears were a piece of cake. It took longer to remove/install the trim in the hatch than it did to actually remove and install the shocks.
01-19-20, 07:04 PM
#18
Full Member
All suspension work is done!. Rides like a dream once again..I didn't really encounter any issues at all. I used ATF as a heat sink for the inserts on the front struts. Of note, I used a jack handle to pry the lower control arm down using the little u shaped piece of metal welded to it (Used as a steering stop).Rears were a piece of cake. It took longer to remove/install the trim in the hatch than it did to actually remove and install the shocks.
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