front strut removal
#2
come on..someone has to have a simple explenation.
the lower arm won't drop enough to simply remove the spring and strut as a whole. i've tried using a spring compressor, but still cannot get the assembly out.
do i have to detach the torsion bar? anti-roll bar?
the lower arm won't drop enough to simply remove the spring and strut as a whole. i've tried using a spring compressor, but still cannot get the assembly out.
do i have to detach the torsion bar? anti-roll bar?
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#3
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Here is all I did when I ripped one out of a junker. Basically loosened but left the nuts up top on the tower to the frame. Then pop the tie rod end. This will give you the movement to remove the two bolts at the base of the spindle. After disconnecting these you will be able to slide the whole assembly towards you from the bottom as the ball joint will allow for the movement. Then just remove the nuts from the top and bam the whole thing will come right out. Hope this helps!
#5
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Right, quite an easy job, but as always get the right tools.
I take it you'll want to disconnect a brake hose at some stage? If not are you changing a strut insert?
If taking it right out make sure you get a special brake line semi-open/semi-closed wrench for the job so you don't round the connector that comes into the wheel arch. You will need some dot 4 to top up the brake master cylinder and will need to bleed the brakes.
To get at the strut first undo (slightly-just a turn or so) the top bolt in the middle of the strut in the engine bay. Then get the car up on stands (use swaybar mounts if ya want - I do) and undo the two bottom nuts that connect to the steering idler arm. If they are stuck double up your wrenches to get a longer handle or use a socket set with the longest bar you have or even extend that longer if you have to, these bolts can be quite tight if the strut has never been removed.
I hope that helps. Slowautoxr has good advice too. Use the steering column steering lock if you have to if doing a one man job.
I take it you'll want to disconnect a brake hose at some stage? If not are you changing a strut insert?
If taking it right out make sure you get a special brake line semi-open/semi-closed wrench for the job so you don't round the connector that comes into the wheel arch. You will need some dot 4 to top up the brake master cylinder and will need to bleed the brakes.
To get at the strut first undo (slightly-just a turn or so) the top bolt in the middle of the strut in the engine bay. Then get the car up on stands (use swaybar mounts if ya want - I do) and undo the two bottom nuts that connect to the steering idler arm. If they are stuck double up your wrenches to get a longer handle or use a socket set with the longest bar you have or even extend that longer if you have to, these bolts can be quite tight if the strut has never been removed.
I hope that helps. Slowautoxr has good advice too. Use the steering column steering lock if you have to if doing a one man job.
#6
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Originally posted by FBDrifter
the lower arm won't drop enough to simply remove the spring and strut as a whole.
the lower arm won't drop enough to simply remove the spring and strut as a whole.
i've tried using a spring compressor, but still cannot get the assembly out.
do i have to detach the torsion bar? anti-roll bar?
It will come out like this.
#7
So it's not necessary to compress the springs? I've never done this so I don't know anything. I was told it was too much to mess with so I paid to have it done; worth doing yourself it seems.
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#8
it WILL run
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big-*** gorilla bar in one hand, use this to press down on the control arm
with your other hadn, pull outwards on the strut
edit: just take the brake caliber off, its only 2 bolts
with your other hadn, pull outwards on the strut
edit: just take the brake caliber off, its only 2 bolts