specRX7_22

when replacing front rotors, you slide the rotor over the greased spindle, and then the washer with the notch in it, then the center nut. How do you guys regulate how tight you make the center nut? Cuz if its too tight, you'll have drag from it, too loose, it will wobble.

GuruDave

After the nut goes on there should be a 'castellated' cover (can't remember how Haynes describes it) that fits over the nut - a split pin then fits through the hole in the spindle and holds the cover over the center nut to prevent it moving.

Dave

djmickyg

i had this same problem a little while ago
i asked many people and i found out that there isnt any torque settings to do them up to its all just by feel..

i just used a socket to fit and an extension bar on it, i didnt use the rachet on the socket, i just turned by the extension. so i knew exactly how much i was turning it..
and i just tighten untill i could feel it to start to get tight then locked it off with that end cap and a split pin (cotter pin for u yanks)..

when u put the wheel back on, u can rock it side to side and u should have VERY minimal play and the wheel should spin fairly easy..

Rx7carl

Actually thats not true, look in the FSM. There is a torque for the nut. I personally do it like this. (which BTW is similar to the way we do it on airliners with 225mph wheels).
After its all together, while turning the hub, tighten till its nice and snug, you will feel the hub dragging a bit now (this step seats and preloads the bearings). Then back off approx 1 turn. Then go back finger tight. Now turn the hub and move it in and out and tighten just till the side to side play is gone. And remember a little loose is better than a little tight when it comes to bearings.

clarksonrx7

Here is what I like to do. grease everything up real good. then lide the rotor and bearings on. then turn the rotor and snug up the nut with a crecent wrench, just snug though, and keep turning the rotor with your other hand as you turn the nut with the wrench.this makes it so the rotor and bearings all settle in correctly and nothing is crooked and the rotor can possibly wobble. then after that turn the nut back just a little so if you wanted to you would be able to turn it off with your fingers easily. and your all set.

specRX7_22

ok i was experimenting a little bit last night and here's what i found works pretty well...

first i torqued the nut to 60 lbs. (just to make sure everything is seated properly. Next I backed if off again. Then i torqued it to 15 lbs. I was worried 15 would be too low, but i was pullin and twisting the rotor pretty good and it did not wobble at all, and the wheel spun very freely. So that's the method im usin from now on

djmickyg

when i was changing my springs ages ago. i took one front side and a friend took the other..
i didnt know what he was doing, and he used an air rachet gun on that bolt and striped the **** outa the bold and nut and put it all back together like that..

when i went to drive off that night the where was wobling REALLY bad (as u would imangine with nothing holding it on) and the brake pads dug into my rotor..

i wasnt very happy at all.. i had to rip it all about agian, buy a new (s/h) shock and do it all agian..