on an 85' gs do the pistons have to be turned in like the rears?????(tryed search only got rear brake info though)

 

Not that I know of. All the early ones I've seen do not; you just push them in with the appropriate tool.

 

Nope, just put a big C-clamp on them and compress them.

 

And use a washer the size of the piston!

 

I use the old brake pad to protect the piston from the c-clamp.

 

what about the other side of the c clamp will it be resting on the rubber boot?

 

There's a cheap spreader that uses the bracket itself as the brace that really does a nice job of pushing the piston back into the caliper....

 

I use a prybar between the inboard pad and the rotor.

Super easy...

 

what about my quistion ???bump

 

No issues with using the c-clamp with an old brakepad. The back of the clamp sits on a nice flat spot on the back of the caliper. Hard to mess up doing it this way, you'll see once you try it.

 

alright...i will try in a few hours when the sun comes up...was going to do yesturday but got tied up at the doctor and moving my cousin into her house. so i was bumed my car sat for another day without driving but hopefully all i need is to push the piston back in and not a new caliper all together. because we are having a drive on the new bridge that just opened with a few other 7's and i dont wanna be without my 7

 

When doing brakes, the ONLY pistons that need to be rotated to get back in are Rear discs that run the parking brake...

For example. If you were to run a Ford 9" rear diff out of an Exploder, the rear discs wouldn't have to be turned because the parking brake is a seperate drum setup inside the hat of the disc.

Now I'm not so sure about the early 90's Subaru Loyales that had front discs and the parking brake went to the front wheels... That was an ODD setup.

 

I always wondered why all cars weren't like this. It makes much more sense to me if the ebrake was in the front - you have more stopping potential this way. You could have the setup with the seperate drum or what if there was a second small caliper just for the ebrake?

 

when taking off the caliper the manual says to take out the 4 clips and 2 plates but what clips are they talking about? i got two big clips facing me when i take off the wheel but i cant get them out...i thought these clips held the brake pad to the caliper....any help since the book isnt helping

 

bump

 

anybody?

 

If you're just trying to replace the pads, remove the lower bolt that holds the caliper, then rotate the caliper upwards. Once that is done, you can remove the pads and press the caliper back in. Does this make sense? Really, there is only one bolt that needs to be removed, but it's a good idea to remove the top one just so you can lube it (caliper slides on these bolts). Good luck...

 

no im taking it off so i can push the piston back in

are you talking about the bolts on the back that hold the whole caliper on or the two bolts that are on the upper part of the caliper where it slides?

 

Talking about the bolts that the caliper slides on. One on the top, one on the bottom. IIRC, you remove them from the backside of the caliper. If you remove the bottom one, the caliper itself will rotate up off of the rotor. HTH.

 

IIRC,,,,,,HTH?????????? the bottom bolt that holds the whole caliper on i can get to theres a rod in the way

 

Turning bends up the cable and makes it prone to failure.

Locking up rear tires causes oversteer. Locking up the fronts causes understeer. I'd much rather have oversteer in a panic situation than understeer.

 

IIRC = If I recall correctly
HTH = Hope this helps

The lower bolt that you need to remove can be taken off with a socket. Don't try to loosen it where you would need an open ended wrench. You are trying to loosen the bolt that holds the caliper on, not the frame surrounding it. I wish I could explain it better, but that's all I've got for you. Maybe someone else can help clarify it for you.

 

wait so the lower bolt facing me shouldnt be touched? thats what you made it sound like earlier...the bolt on the back that holds the caliper on is being blocked so i cant get to it and the top one is on hella good.....i almost took my car off the stands trying to get it loose..........here are some pics so you can copy paste it and draw arrows on it to show me where and how to take the caliper off so i can get the dam piston

 

im probly the only person who has ever had trouble with this

 

I'm sorry man, I haven't slept in like 40 hours and its been a few months since I did this.

The bolt you want to remove it the one pictured in the third photo that you posted. You access it from the outside of the caliper. Very sorry about that, I was halucinating...